Forum Discussion

LaunchnRetrieve's avatar
Dec 27, 2015

Dometic Alwasy Runs On Propane?

I just realized I've been running my Dometic fridge on propane when I camp even though it should be running on AC when I'm plugged in.

AC is plugged in.
Propane tanks are on.
Dometic switch is in the auto position.
I keep getting the try again light when I'm starting the fridge.
So I run the propane to the stove and let it burn for a minute to prime the line, I guess.
Then the fridge starts to work.
No, I think I've just answered my own question.
The fridge always requires propane to operate, but switches between 12V and AC.
So if I am hooked to AC the auto will choose the AC.
If the AC isn't hooked up the auto will choose DC.
Regardless it will always use propane?

13 Replies

  • No it should not always run on propane. When the refer is set it should run on AC if available and run on propane when not available.
    Refer should be set on "auto".
    Start by checking the refer receptacle in the exterior access. Use a known good appliance such as an electric drill. Wiggle the cord body in the receptacle while operating the appliance to see if it cuts out.
    Check the fuse holder on the circuit board in the refer outside access.
    Turn off power to the refer or the rig. remove the circuit board and inspect the back of it for burnt places. If you see any replace circuit board with Dinosaur Electronics replacement.
  • LaunchnRetrieve wrote:
    Regardless it will always use propane?
    No, that's not normal, if it's both a gas and AC fridge. As said above, take off the back panel and make sure the ac plug is in. Push the Auto/gas switch a few times.. maybe it's stuck. Try turning the unit off and on a few times.

    Mine got stuck on ac once, I finally had to pull its ac feed plug to get it to go to gas. It's plugged back in and working ok. Sometimes they get confused!
  • It should only use propane when no 120VAC is present.

    I just recently had the same issue and here is what I found:
    1st I checked the plug in the back of the fridge and the voltage was present there. Next I took off the black cover off the circuit board and checked the fuses and both were good. Next I checked where the 120V Ac plugs onto the circuit board and found that the spaded plug was not completely pushed on. When I pushed on it, it snapped in. I then plugged the AC plug back in and turned on the fridge and it worked on AC as it should.

    If all fuses are good and the connections are all tight the next thing to check is the heating element with an ohm meter. I think it's suppose to have about 41ohms if the heater rod is good. Also there should be Voltage across the pins where the heater rod is connected to the circuit board. If no voltage is present there, but all else checks out ok then the board may be bad. Some RV parts/shops have a circuit board tester which I would recommend before replacing the board.