Dometic DM2652RBX - Won't run on electric or gas

Check light and fridge light would be off if no 12 VDC. May be a control board got fried during the power outage.

Yes! Needs 12-Volts-DC (Battery or Converter from 120-Volts-AC) to run the Fridge's Logic Board. The one with the fuses Chris Bryant mentioned. There is probably also a fuse on your Power Center designated Fridge. That would be only for that Board. The "Fuel" is either LPG from your tank or 120-Volts-AC, again through your Power Center (but on a Circuit Breaker this time, probably with other items) and the circuit will probably be either ON a GFCI outlet or downstream of another GFCI in your coach, likely the Bathroom.
So, you gotta have 12VDC Control Voltage AND LPG or 12VDC Control Voltage AND 120VAC. LPG or 120VAC alone will not run the Fridge.

I want it to run off shore power. Are you saying it still needs battery?

Never mind the 120 volt power, does the battery have a good charge? Unplug the 120 and check the to see if the lights and other 12 volt items work properly. Fridge needs 12 volts to operate properly, where plugged into 120 or not.

WonderingWoman wrote:
Just hit the switch in the bathroom. Turned on and off the fridge. The check light is still coming on. It is dimmer than the other light too.


Keep the suggestions coming. I appreciate your help.

If it is dimmer, that usually means some electrical interference, often from a bad florescent light- often the refrigerator will be working, the light will just be dimly lit.

Check Light means NOTHING to the 120 side and is NOT a diag for anything else other than LP lighting. ALL it means is, the refer tried to ignite on LP and did NOT. FIND the cause of not lighting on LP----No LP to the refer/Ignitor not operating/the burner is dirty, preventing lighting. If on AUTO, and you have 120 to the 120 receptacle at the back of the refer, it should run on 120 and if NOT, the odds are the 120 fuse on the rear control board is blown, which usually means the 120 element may be bad, but not always. IF that fuse is blown and unit on AUTO, it will go direct to LP. Take the unit out of Auto(Auto light OFF) and restart. TRY at least 10 times to help purge any air in the system. Doug

Your refer is 4/5 years old and if the burner has never been cleaned it is probably dirty causing the LP problem.

Just hit the switch in the bathroom. Turned on and off the fridge. The check light is still coming on. It is dimmer than the other light too.


Keep the suggestions coming. I appreciate your help.

First- turn it off and back on. That should reset the check light. It should not come back on right away, if at all. If it does come back on, it means the refrigerator is not seeing the 120 volt power, and it's trying to ignite on LP.
It is plugged in inside the cover on the outside of the RV- there is a standard outlet and cord for the 120 volt power. This outlet is also controlled by the ground fault interrupter outlet- usually they are in the bathroom- they are the outlets with the buttons in the center. Most common is for these to trip. Check them first.

It's getting 110 power just had it checked.

Turn fridge OFF

Check 120V AC outlet in outside compartment that fridge is plugged into for power....plug something else in (light/fan/drill motor)
If nothing works....tripped circuit breaker or tripped GFCI outlet

If they work OK...then pull cover on control module lower left backside of fridge and check the 5A glass fuse.

Power outage caused fridge to swap from AC operation to GAS operation but it failed to light off on propane so 'check' light came on.
Turning fridge OFF resets check light.......turn it back ON when you have 120V AC power
OR turn it ON and try GAS operation (may take a few tries IF hasn't been operated on GAS for awhile)