Ok am I missing something. My dometic DM2852 was running fine on this past weekends trip. Get home no power on 120 or dc. No lights on display, interior light nothing. What I’ve done so far:Used multi tester on dc terminal block shows 13.7 volts. House battery is 1 12volt tests fine. 110 v outlet fridge plugged into cks out okChecked 3amp and 5amp fuse on control board checks ok with a “green light led” fuse checker. Am I missing something or is next step replacing control board?As always thanks!

From the Escapees board:"So i have identified the issue. There is a second control board where the LED panel is. That board was dead. Replaced the upper control board and fridge powered back up. I don't know if this is common or not. I know every tech I talked to was sure it was the circuit board on the back of the fridge."

Some have an on off switch on the side of the lower control board that is meant to shut off 12v so you can leave the door open with no light when not camping. (to keep the fridge aired out) Not easy to get at, so not likely to hit it by accident AFAIK.Check the pos wire from terminal block to board blade and also the ground from the terminal block to chassis.

sgfrye wrote:Ok am I missing something. My dometic DM2852 was running fine on this past weekends trip. Get home no power on 120 or dc. No lights on display, interior light nothing. What I’ve done so far:Used multi tester on dc terminal block shows 13.7 volts. House battery is 1 12volt tests fine. 110 v outlet fridge plugged into cks out okChecked 3amp and 5amp fuse on control board checks ok with a “green light led” fuse checker. Am I missing something or is next step replacing control board?As always thanks!There is NO on/off switch on your circuit board so don't bother looking for thatYou have 13.7V DC at terminal block.....but no upper display OR interior light.5A fuse is for the 120V AC circuit3A fuse is the DC fuse for circuit board and all controlsTesting them with a 'fuse tester' just means the fuse is intact....but doesn't check that DC Voltage is presentUpper display is via 6 pin connector (P1---upper left corner) and the interior light/heater strip come from J2 connections----two completely different DC circuits.You need to TEST using a voltmeter that you have 12V DC Voltage at J4......that is where the DC from terminal block goes to on circuit board AFTER going thru the 2 thermal fuses(1 in-line down by burner and the other 1 on stack/which is resettable if tripped----RED wires from terminal to thermal fuses to J4)W/O DC at J4 NOTHING will functionIf you have DC at J4 then circuit board is most likely bad cause of different components being w/o DCIf you do NOT have DC at J4 then stack thermal fuse has tripped and cooling unit has probably failed.Voltmeter.......test for voltage!

Thank you everyone. I will hopefully keep troubleshooting this weekend and update

I found the problem....the inline thermal fuse close to burner is toast. good voltage going into the fuse, not good coming out. i removed the fuse and did a temporary splice to test without the fuse inline. everything came on and fridge is working on 120 and propane. fridge ran all night on shore power this morning temps were good. freezer and fridge. i turned off fridge and ordered a pack of new fuses off amazon. when they arrive i will install and see if it happens again. replaying in my mind last sunday when the fridge died i know it happened while we were towing home. i usually tow with fridge running on propane never had a problem. we had a 3 hour drive home and it was storming and had gusts of wind 30 to 35mph. wondering if the wind affected the flame enough to kill the fuse. i read a post yesterday on another forum concerning a fellow with the same problem but only happening "in transit" not when parked.

Dometic fridge DM2852 No power | Good Sam Community

dougrainer
Nomad
Apr 17, 2019
The Thermal DISC on the burner outer stack cover was installed as part of the original Dometic recall. BUT, ALL Dometic refers built after the start of the recall have those Thermal DISC's, NOT a fuse. Some you can reset and the others when they trip you replace. Doug

PS, when they trip does not mean you have a bad cooling unit. I have yet to find a BAD Disc and a BAD cooling unit as the cause.
BFL13
Explorer II
Apr 17, 2019
There is a "thermo" and also a "thermal" Not clear what's what.

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermo-fuse.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html
sgfrye
Explorer
Apr 17, 2019
BFL13 wrote:
There is a "thermo" and also a "thermal" Not clear what's what.

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermo-fuse.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html

My problem is the thermal fuse

The thermo disc pop out on mine did not trip.

Im buying a thermal fuse only not the 61 dollar part you linked. I will install fuse where i removed orginal fuse. Couple bucks for just the fuer
dougrainer
Nomad
Apr 18, 2019
sgfrye wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
There is a "thermo" and also a "thermal" Not clear what's what.

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermo-fuse.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html

My problem is the thermal fuse

The thermo disc pop out on mine did not trip.

Im buying a thermal fuse only not the 61 dollar part you linked. I will install fuse where i removed orginal fuse. Couple bucks for just the fuer

The WIRED Thermal fuse is a FLAME fuse. If the unit catches fire from a leaking Cooling Unit AT THE BURNER, the flames melt/burn that Thermal fuse and shuts power down to the refer. In the 15 or so years since Dometic started installing that wired Fuse, I have NEVER had one fail. Doug
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Apr 18, 2019
dougrainer wrote:
sgfrye wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
There is a "thermo" and also a "thermal" Not clear what's what.

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermo-fuse.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html

My problem is the thermal fuse

The thermo disc pop out on mine did not trip.

Im buying a thermal fuse only not the 61 dollar part you linked. I will install fuse where i removed orginal fuse. Couple bucks for just the fuer

The WIRED Thermal fuse is a FLAME fuse. If the unit catches fire from a leaking Cooling Unit AT THE BURNER, the flames melt/burn that Thermal fuse and shuts power down to the refer. In the 15 or so years since Dometic started installing that wired Fuse, I have NEVER had one fail. Doug

Their in lines the real issue.....
It only shuts down power to fridge AFTER A FIRE.

:S
dougrainer
Nomad
Apr 18, 2019
Old-Biscuit wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
sgfrye wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
There is a "thermo" and also a "thermal" Not clear what's what.

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermo-fuse.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html

My problem is the thermal fuse

The thermo disc pop out on mine did not trip.

Im buying a thermal fuse only not the 61 dollar part you linked. I will install fuse where i removed orginal fuse. Couple bucks for just the fuer

The WIRED Thermal fuse is a FLAME fuse. If the unit catches fire from a leaking Cooling Unit AT THE BURNER, the flames melt/burn that Thermal fuse and shuts power down to the refer. In the 15 or so years since Dometic started installing that wired Fuse, I have NEVER had one fail. Doug

Their in lines the real issue.....
It only shuts down power to fridge AFTER A FIRE.

:S

NO, It kills power to the Fridge when the fuse melts. With NO source(LP flame) to keep the flame GOING, the flame snuffs out. You can have a BAD flame from a dirty burner and/or rodent/insect nests that would cause a flame flare out of the burner area and that fuse would shut down the refer also. Doug
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Apr 19, 2019
dougrainer wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
sgfrye wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
There is a "thermo" and also a "thermal" Not clear what's what.

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermo-fuse.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html

My problem is the thermal fuse

The thermo disc pop out on mine did not trip.

Im buying a thermal fuse only not the 61 dollar part you linked. I will install fuse where i removed orginal fuse. Couple bucks for just the fuer

The WIRED Thermal fuse is a FLAME fuse. If the unit catches fire from a leaking Cooling Unit AT THE BURNER, the flames melt/burn that Thermal fuse and shuts power down to the refer. In the 15 or so years since Dometic started installing that wired Fuse, I have NEVER had one fail. Doug

Their in lines the real issue.....
It only shuts down power to fridge AFTER A FIRE.

:S

NO, It kills power to the Fridge when the fuse melts. With NO source(LP flame) to keep the flame GOING, the flame snuffs out. You can have a BAD flame from a dirty burner and/or rodent/insect nests that would cause a flame flare out of the burner area and that fuse would shut down the refer also. Doug

Your words (highlighted)......and I responded to those
dougrainer
Nomad
Apr 20, 2019
Old-Biscuit wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
sgfrye wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
There is a "thermo" and also a "thermal" Not clear what's what.

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermo-fuse.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html

My problem is the thermal fuse

The thermo disc pop out on mine did not trip.

Im buying a thermal fuse only not the 61 dollar part you linked. I will install fuse where i removed orginal fuse. Couple bucks for just the fuer

The WIRED Thermal fuse is a FLAME fuse. If the unit catches fire from a leaking Cooling Unit AT THE BURNER, the flames melt/burn that Thermal fuse and shuts power down to the refer. In the 15 or so years since Dometic started installing that wired Fuse, I have NEVER had one fail. Doug

Their in lines the real issue.....
It only shuts down power to fridge AFTER A FIRE.

:S

NO, It kills power to the Fridge when the fuse melts. With NO source(LP flame) to keep the flame GOING, the flame snuffs out. You can have a BAD flame from a dirty burner and/or rodent/insect nests that would cause a flame flare out of the burner area and that fuse would shut down the refer also. Doug

Your words (highlighted)......and I responded to those

OK, lets state this. You have a Fire suppression system in your Auto or house. You complain that it only functions AFTER a fire starts:B Doug

PS, THAT is the PURPOSE of that Flame fusible wire. To STOP the source of the flame.
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Apr 20, 2019
:W I am tempted to re-quote the whole thing again and go for a record.

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