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bersh's avatar
bersh
Explorer
Jun 21, 2014

Dometic RM2610 question

I have an older Nomad trailer with a Dometic RM2610 fridge in it. It has started doing something while operating on LP that I'm hoping someone can help with.

Quick background - I replaced the cooling unit a couple years ago and for the most part the fridge works great. Two years ago I put a new thermostat in it as it would only operate on LP, and since replacing it it will run on both.

Now to my question. I can't say for sure if this started before or after I replaced the thermostat, but regardless shortly thereafter I noticed that even though the fridge runs great on LP, it doesn't seem to get cold while running on LP. What I've resorted to doing is I get it started using electric, then switch it over to LP (I do most of my camping in remote areas without any hookups, but do have a generator).

Just wondering if there is something obvious I should look at. I've inspected/cleaned the burner, and that doesn't seem to help. There is a nice blue flame when it's running. Once the fridge is cold the LP keeps it running without an issue.

Thanks.

10 Replies

  • If anyone is curious, I seem to have sorted out the issues. It was a combination of regulator and needing a good cleaning. I first tested the pressure at the fridge and the stove, and the pressure was 9.5-10. Close, but a touch low. I then installed the new regulator, and was getting a touch over 11. I fired up the fridge and though better, it still wouldn't get cold after about an hour. I then pulled all the gas-related components out of the fridge to clean, and though there was some crud it wasn't too bad. Apparently though, it was just dirty enough to restrict the gas enough to prevent a full flame. I fired it back up and the flame was noticeably better. 20 minutes later and the freezer was frozen. Not too bad for a couple hours of work and some running around locally to rig up the manometer and to get a new regulator (cheaper than Amazon, I might add).


  • Thanks for the info. Guess I have some testing and most likely a new regulator in my future. The regulator was replaced about 10 years ago when I first bought the camper so it wouldn't surprise me if it's going.
  • Unless you have a very small scale test gauge it will be difficult to measure 'pressure'. 11" WC is roughly 0.4 psi. That is why a manometer is used.

    You can easily make a manometer

  • bersh wrote:
    The flu & chimney were cleaned, as was the burner area. I haven't checked the LP pressure at the fridge but the stove, furnace, and hot water heater all operate correctly and if the pressure is low I would think it would affect them. I'll have to get a test gauge and take a look though.


    I have a new refer(6 months old) at the shop right now and customer complaint was no work on lp. I tested the LP pressure and it was 9.4 inches W/C. SHOULD be 11.5 no load. The refer would NOT even chill the freezer at that low pressure in 90 degree heat. Yes, the other LP appliances fired up. The regulator was bad and would fluctuate the LP pressure from 7 to 9.5 while the refer was running. Doug
  • The other appliances will happily work on 9-10" w.c. without you knowing. The refrigerator will not.
  • The flu & chimney were cleaned, as was the burner area. I haven't checked the LP pressure at the fridge but the stove, furnace, and hot water heater all operate correctly and if the pressure is low I would think it would affect them. I'll have to get a test gauge and take a look though.
  • The flue and flue baffle are key components to proper cooling on gas operation

    The flue needs to be clean
    The flue baffle needs to be clean and in proper position to direct the heat to correct area of perk tube. Flue baffle should be 1 5/8" from burner to bottom of baffle
  • I should also add that the flame does get larger if I crank the thermostat up.

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