Electric slide motor conversation please.

Thanks. I did clean up the track gears and sprayed with that Slide Out lube they sell at Camping World. It came back in this morning :B although slow. It just really labors when it raises the floor of the flat floor system. Going to attempt a extend later after batteries charge up. I just feel much better knowing the manual crank worked pretty easy if needed.

My motor was outside the frame, so easy to get to. A torx bit and a selection of 1/4 extensions got it done. If you do the gearbox, it gets harder but not by much. As I was sellting the TT, I let the buyer deal with that. Some models have the motors inside the frame, and the belly pan has to come down for access. The clicking noise needs to be addressed before spending money on a motor, use a buddy to hold the switch will you locate the clicking. Mine spun freely with the clutch disengaged, just didn't have the behind to pull it in with the clutch engaged. The clicking noise could be as simple as a $5 circuit breaker going crazy, all the way up to who knows.

Yeah I think mine bit the dust. My Trojan's are fully charged, hit the button and it makes that clicking sound it usually makes when they are fully extended. I was surprised how easy it extended with the manual crank handle.
I haven't popped the cap off yet, is it just a matter of bolting and wiring the new motor up there?

I had to buy a motor to fix it. Call PPL, they had the best price. Expect a 2 week delivery time. You will need the part number off of your existing motor to get the right one. They come with the transmission too, but I stuck the motor on and gave the new tranny to the purchaser. Read dougrainer's comments again, he knows what he is talking about.

Well I searched the forum and found this thread. What did you find out Bucky?
Sounds exactly like my problem but now it won't open after a year in storage.

One thing to check is the actual running voltage. Take the leads right off the motor and see what it is. Then take a good set of jumper tables and bring them to the motor and check what the running voltage is then. If you have a bad connection from the power source to the motor, you will really see a difference.

bucky wrote:
A question for the electrically talented among us please. Can a motor run but get weak? My local motor place says its fine, my experiences tell me it's not. My slide is not binding, it is properly lubricated with Dri slide, but coming in it can not get over the hump without help. I have tested all power and grounds, the battery is fully charged, and the harness coming out of the frame at the slide motor matches voltage at the battery. The motor runs in both directions as it should. I know that electric motors have full power instantly, so can this thing be bad but still spin when powered? Thanks for any help.

As most of us are finding out, getting older doesn't make you stronger. That goes for batteries and motors too.
I have always felt that the motor on my largest slide (14') was underpowered. The last five years seem to have slowed it down even more. Just something to think about.

HOW have you checked to see if there is a binding of the slide room? I'd advise you crank it by hand one complete cycle to actually SEE if there is an area that is tight (it would show up easily when hand cranking the slide). MIGHT save a lot of concern about the motor if you knew for sure. Some POSSIBLE reasons for binding are a slide room that is not aligned correctly with the opening, is adjusted to the wrong height or where water intrusion around a wooden frame has caused the wood to swell and NONE of those reasons would be greatly effected by lubricating the rails.
Good luck / Skip

The rubber wiper and seals along the slide can stiffen with age causing greater friction while the slide moves thus slowing down the process. If the slide goes out OK but slows, drags, or even stops while going in, I bet the wipers on the side are not flexing and turning into the direction of the slide movement.

The ONLY test for your problem is this.
You take a good 12 volt battery and disconnect the 2 wire leads at the slide motor and connect 2 wires from the 12 volt battery direct to the slide motor and do your retract. IF it does NOT make it all the way in, the motor is weak and needs replaced
Last, YES, a defective motor can operate fine on bench test but lack the power/torque when needed. WHY do you think they have stress tests for heart patients:B Doug