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deandec's avatar
deandec
Explorer
Jun 05, 2014

Electrical Problem - Solenoid and Fuses

My continuing problem is getting power to my transmission shifter and also related switches on the same dash.

I have three rows of lighted automotive fuses in my front run box.

Row 3 works as designed and is powered by the house batteries.

Row 1 works directly from the chassis battery.

Row 2 is connected to the negative chassis battery cable by an Ignition solenoid.

When the ignition key is turned on, the relay switch opens the normally closed negative cable connection for Row 2 and the fuses light up for use. THIS IS NOT HAPPENING....

I have tested the Solenoid function on the bench and it appears to work fine. But...I do have a new one arriving this PM.

With the solenoid installed, I can start the engine but,

......Rows 1 and 2 of lighted fuses go dark at ignition (not normal).
......no voltage passes through the solenoid to the Row 2 fuses.

Is my problem with the solenoid, the ignition switch, or elsewhere?

Any ideas for additional testing?

9 Replies

  • Resolution of Problem:

    The ground wire from the small terminals on the solenoid is not working. For some reason the ground connection decided not to work with no known event to cause that result.

    A cheater ground connection has everything working as it should.

    The next step is some continuity checking to find the actual ground point for the solenoid connection to see what else might be affected.

    Thanks to all for your help.

    Message to all: Check the Ground Connection First!! :o
  • Yes you are correct, I apologize.

    The cable connection that is controlled by the solenoid is not a negative cable (red cable with black tape at the end) but a positive cable from the chassis battery to fuses (ignore the black tape).

    The power cable path is open (no continuity)until the smaller terminals (with continuity) are opened (no continuity) by power from the ECM

    As you have discovered, I only know enough about this stuff to be dangerous. The terminology itself is quite confusing. (Which connectors on the solenoid are viewed to be open or closed?)



    In the schematics it is called an ignition solenoid (not a starter solenoid)and is at the opposite end of the rig from the starter.

    Hope this un-confuses the confusion.
  • When the ignition key is turned on, the relay switch opens the normally closed negative cable connection for Row 2 and the fuses light up for use. THIS IS NOT HAPPENING....

    Confusing description.

    "opens the normally closed negative cable connection". Is not the relay switch the ignition switch?

    This is yes/no a negative (ground) connection that is according to your statement "normally closed" but when the switch is activated the relay contacts open breaking the ground circuit? When the ground circuit is "broken" (made to go open circuit) by the relay the "lights, light up"?
  • Hi,

    Is the solenoid to power the "house" charging circuits?

    Your use of the words ignition solenoid muddies the waters.

    I chose to replace mine with units rated at 100 amps continuous duty.
  • This is an 80A continuous duty ignition solenoid.

    Not a starter solenoid.
  • If by ignition solenoid, you mean starter solenoid. Starter solenoids have are short duty, and there are continuos duty solenoids. Perhaps that is your problem.

    Dusty
  • Replaced the ignition solenoid with an identical new one. Both solenoids seem to be ok and problem continues.

    Next I need to trace the current flow from ignition switch, to ignition combiner thingy, to ECM, to ignition solenoid. Hoping to talk with CC tech service tomorrow.
  • Hi,

    Check the solenoid to see if it conducts when active. Burned contacts are a significant problem. I hope you upgraded the current rating on the solenoid.
  • Get a cheap meter and find out what's happening
    The solenoid may be clicking but the internal contacts won't carry any amperage
    Good Luck, Mike

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