Forum Discussion

Almot's avatar
Almot
Explorer III
May 12, 2013

Fixing hole in corrugated alum siding?

Got an ugly hole, 2ft long and few inches wide, just above the bottom frame. Narrow gate, don't ask.


Covered with a "handyman's secret weapon" - duct tape, you can see it. Looks surprisingly good on grey-ish paint of the lower siding, but need something longterm. Looks are not important - I think anything but a piece of original corrugated sheet will look ugly. First idea was a fiberglass soaked in epoxy, and I'm not impressed. Eventually will work, liquid resin doesn't want to stay on vertical surface, might need "painting" it with epoxy a few times. Then sanding and painting in matching color. Should've flattened those "bumps" with a hammer before applying fiberglass - there is steel and wood frame behind. Epoxy adheres to aluminum, but after hammering it came off in places, no big deal.

Is there any easier solution? Maybe 0.125" aluminum sheet on urethane caulk (or on rivets?), as a backing, and then again fiberglass with epoxy, sanded to proper shape and painted?

9 Replies

  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    Bob - thanks. Yes, it's 0.025" (or 0.024), not 0.125. Very thin, less than 1/16". The problem is that rig is not in Canada. Check your email.
  • BobsYourUncle wrote:
    This is actually an easy fix, way simpler than one would think.

    Don't try to put something different on there as it just won't look right at all.

    It is the bottom piece, by far the best one to have to replace. The siding is put on starting at the top and working down to finishing at the bottom. Each piece is inserted into the one above and stapled on to the studs. The bottom piece usually has a 90 degree bend at the bottom and stapled up to the underside of the trailer, or a trim on the bottom to cover the it.

    It is not that hard to remove the staples and drop the piece out for replacement. I have done this many times. Of course, you will have to remove all the other stuff in the way, doors, hatches, corner moldings etc.

    As for finding a replacement piece, I got all the siding for my rebuild project from Fraserway RV in Abbotsford. They have a siding roll former in their service shop, and have different rollers to match pretty well any profile. 23' long? OK, a bit awkward to move without damage, but I go to Abbotsford all the time and I have a big rack on top of my truck to carry stuff. A simple crate made of 2X4' strapped to my rack will carry the piece intact.

    Do yourself a favor and don't try to fiberglass it or checkerplate it or anything else unless you want that look.

    I live only a short distance from you, and if you buy me a coffee, I'll stop by and show you in person how to fix it properly. It's easy to do. And if you buy me a donut with that Timmies, I might even stick around and help you fix it!! Bring it to my house in Surrey or I'll run into Vancouver for you. Your call. It is handy to have 2 or 3 guys to hold the piece to install it. It is a bit flimsy to hold by yourself.

    Either way, we can replace the damaged piece in an afternoon.


    Can you post a picture of the whole side of the trailer so I can see the overall view? Or email it to me?
    Man, how can you beat a deal like that??
  • I had a few holes to patch and made up a few corrugated pieces,using a siding brake. I fastened the new piece onto the existing siding with metal screws after applying sealant to the underlying siding.
  • BTW, the siding is maybe .024 at best....
    It is definitely not .125 - .125 is one eight of an inch thick. There is no way you could bend it at .125
    This stuff is close to the same thickness as aluminum house gutters.
  • This is actually an easy fix, way simpler than one would think.

    Don't try to put something different on there as it just won't look right at all.

    It is the bottom piece, by far the best one to have to replace. The siding is put on starting at the top and working down to finishing at the bottom. Each piece is inserted into the one above and stapled on to the studs. The bottom piece usually has a 90 degree bend at the bottom and stapled up to the underside of the trailer, or a trim on the bottom to cover the it.

    It is not that hard to remove the staples and drop the piece out for replacement. I have done this many times. Of course, you will have to remove all the other stuff in the way, doors, hatches, corner moldings etc.

    As for finding a replacement piece, I got all the siding for my rebuild project from Fraserway RV in Abbotsford. They have a siding roll former in their service shop, and have different rollers to match pretty well any profile. 23' long? OK, a bit awkward to move without damage, but I go to Abbotsford all the time and I have a big rack on top of my truck to carry stuff. A simple crate made of 2X4' strapped to my rack will carry the piece intact.

    Do yourself a favor and don't try to fiberglass it or checkerplate it or anything else unless you want that look.

    I live only a short distance from you, and if you buy me a coffee, I'll stop by and show you in person how to fix it properly. It's easy to do. And if you buy me a donut with that Timmies, I might even stick around and help you fix it!! Bring it to my house in Surrey or I'll run into Vancouver for you. Your call. It is handy to have 2 or 3 guys to hold the piece to install it. It is a bit flimsy to hold by yourself.

    Either way, we can replace the damaged piece in an afternoon.


    Can you post a picture of the whole side of the trailer so I can see the overall view? Or email it to me?
  • I would clamp it to a 2x4 or some 1/2"+ plywood and use my carbide tipped circular saw.
    Have not actually done it but I would give it a go. Hand file any rough edges.
  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    B.O. Plenty wrote:
    ... the panel can be removed and replaced in about 1-2 hours time. Just undo the the corner moldings, and moldings around any trim.

    One 23ft panel from front to back molding, with nice and accurate cuts around the front hatch, wheels, and furnace hatch? Ouch...

    SMK's suggestion of diamond plate got me thinking. Might still do this. Just one side, there is no symmetry with all those storage and appliance lids and hatches anyway. What about cutting 3ft strip out of corrugated panel, and sticking it up on that hole somehow? Riveting, caulking, whatever. Would have to be more than 3ft, to cover adjacent dents and bumps, not just the hole. Cutting a piece out of 0.125 alum (I think it's 0.125), and keeping edges clean, without curls, is not easy. Have never done this.
  • I was thinking some aluminum diamond plate. But then you need to do both sides to look oem.
    Might help on future battles with the gate. ;)
  • Order a new panel from a dealer or look around online. It's easy to find. Metal sided trailers are sided from the top down so the piece is the last one that went on. It's very easy to replace and the panel can be removed and replaced in about 1-2 hours time. Just undo the the corner moldings, and moldings around any trim. Remove the staple along the bottom and the staples under the edge moldings. The panel will the slip out pulling downward. Use the old for a pattern and trim the new one to fit. Slip it back up into place. Staple it down and replace the trim..

    B.O.