Hee Hee Who Was It........?

Favor look at the brands of recalled refrigerators: Example HAIER. Freon units outnumber gas units around 10,000 to 1 - naturally there's going to be more gross activity for a huge number of units. Units per thousand failures over a 60 month course would shock some of you, I'm afraid

The statement was made in a thread that was heavily edited by an admin, si that exact post may be gone.
A quick google of refrigerator fires gives more info and pictures of compressor type refrigerators burned up than you can use- info on numerous recalls as well.

I can't find anyone saying that using both 'refigerator' and 'refrigerator' spellings.

MrWizard wrote:
NONE of the posts answer the OP



the question IS who wrote that statement
NOT a debate about gas/compressor or 12v operation

The search function around here is seriously broken for any post much older than a year or a year an a half. A lot of "fix it" and battery maintenance posts have gone "MIA" since the last purge, or whatever it is that happens to data bases when they get corrupted or cleaned up, or servers get changed... of which I don't know enough about. What I do know is that a lot of valuable data posts are gone, unobtanium, deleted. So, there will probably never be an answer to mexicowanderer's question.

Hmmm I seem to remember the figure 1.15 amps for the Norcold. 'Course that can be expressed as 1,150 ma.

The sole heat-to-cold device that I still respect is a lithium bromide absorbsion chiller. Even then the entering stream temperature had to be monitored hourly to avoid the lithium bromide from dropping out of solution.

On a hundred degree day I would start out at dawn with a 35 degree Norcold then switch it to gas. At 6:30 I would arrive at my destination and the 12-volt element provided a bone numbing 47F. Ten degrees above correct temperature using wattage that would have successfully maintained a 17 CF chest freezer at -5F

BOTH Vestfrost units together use LESS energy than the Norcold. The penalty was in the price and the weight.

Installed 1985. Never touched since.

valhalla360 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
I'm confused. Gas fridges in an RV forum typically refer to ammonia absorption models that have no Freon.

I think most compressor based (typical of household units) no longer use Freon.

Gas fridges in electric mode aren't that efficient but they typically are only run in electric mode when in a campground with power available so it's not a big concern since electric generally comes with the site. If you try to run them off battery power...it's just silly as the reason for using gas unit is the ability to not use electricity when dry camping.

There is NO difference between 120 ac mode and LP gas mode in cooling. BOTH have almost identical BTU heat output. Doug

Sure but I never suggested otherwise.

Efficiency was in comparison of an ammonia absorption vs a compressor based if both run on electricity. A good compressor based unit will be more efficient but if you are hooked up to shore power which is already included in the cost of your site, most people don't really care.

But if you are away from shorepower, trying to run an absorption fridge off a battery bank and/or solar panels, gets impractical. Even more so in comparison to a compressor based unit.

RV absorbsion refers do NOT run on 12 volts. They only require milliamps 12 volt to run the controls. 3 way RV refers are NOT designed to be run camping on 12 volt. You MUST have a Truck or hi output charging system to run a 3 way on the 12 volt Heat Element. The 3 way 12 volt heat element is designed to only KEEP the existing temp in the refer and not to cool it down to temp. Doug

Sorry but some DO have the option to run on 12v or you can use an inverter to access the battery power if you don't have 12v heater option.

But due to the efficiency, if you plan to use 12v regularly, a compressor based unit makes a lot more sense.

You are absolutely WRONG. RV Absorbsion refers that have a 12 volt Heat Element are for in Transit only power. The 12 volt heat element will drain any battery bank in less than 8 hours. There is a difference between ABSORBSION 12 volt and a 120/12 volt RV compressor type unit. Doug Below from the Dometic manual.


Mode 3 Way Units Only
Press the DC mode indicator button 2 to the DOWN position. Lamp A will light. Press the TEMPERATURE SELECTOR button 4 until the lamp F at the desired position is illuminated. The refrigerator will continue to operate in the DC mode until switch 2 is moved to the UP position or control voltage falls below 9.6 VDC. The DC mode overrides all the other operating modes. Discharging of the battery will occur if the vehicle engine is not running.

Note The DC mode is a holding mode not a full cooling mode. DC should be used once the unit is cooled down and constant supply of DC available driving down the road.

dougrainer wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
I'm confused. Gas fridges in an RV forum typically refer to ammonia absorption models that have no Freon.

I think most compressor based (typical of household units) no longer use Freon.

Gas fridges in electric mode aren't that efficient but they typically are only run in electric mode when in a campground with power available so it's not a big concern since electric generally comes with the site. If you try to run them off battery power...it's just silly as the reason for using gas unit is the ability to not use electricity when dry camping.

There is NO difference between 120 ac mode and LP gas mode in cooling. BOTH have almost identical BTU heat output. Doug

Sure but I never suggested otherwise.

Efficiency was in comparison of an ammonia absorption vs a compressor based if both run on electricity. A good compressor based unit will be more efficient but if you are hooked up to shore power which is already included in the cost of your site, most people don't really care.

But if you are away from shorepower, trying to run an absorption fridge off a battery bank and/or solar panels, gets impractical. Even more so in comparison to a compressor based unit.

RV absorbsion refers do NOT run on 12 volts. They only require milliamps 12 volt to run the controls. 3 way RV refers are NOT designed to be run camping on 12 volt. You MUST have a Truck or hi output charging system to run a 3 way on the 12 volt Heat Element. The 3 way 12 volt heat element is designed to only KEEP the existing temp in the refer and not to cool it down to temp. Doug

Sorry but some DO have the option to run on 12v or you can use an inverter to access the battery power if you don't have 12v heater option.

But due to the efficiency, if you plan to use 12v regularly, a compressor based unit makes a lot more sense.

NONE of the posts answer the OP

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

Hee Hee Who Was It

That wrote....

Been on this board a year and never read any complaints about a gas refrigerator...

If you wish, PM me for tips to help your freon fridge work better...

the question IS who wrote that statement
NOT a debate about gas/compressor or 12v operation

dougrainer wrote:

RV absorbsion refers do NOT run on 12 volts. They only require milliamps 12 volt to run the controls. 3 way RV refers are NOT designed to be run camping on 12 volt. You MUST have a Truck or hi output charging system to run a 3 way on the 12 volt Heat Element. The 3 way 12 volt heat element is designed to only KEEP the existing temp in the refer and not to cool it down to temp. Doug

/\ That is a goldmine nugget that confirmed what I always thought.

valhalla360 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
I'm confused. Gas fridges in an RV forum typically refer to ammonia absorption models that have no Freon.

I think most compressor based (typical of household units) no longer use Freon.

Gas fridges in electric mode aren't that efficient but they typically are only run in electric mode when in a campground with power available so it's not a big concern since electric generally comes with the site. If you try to run them off battery power...it's just silly as the reason for using gas unit is the ability to not use electricity when dry camping.

There is NO difference between 120 ac mode and LP gas mode in cooling. BOTH have almost identical BTU heat output. Doug

Sure but I never suggested otherwise.

Efficiency was in comparison of an ammonia absorption vs a compressor based if both run on electricity. A good compressor based unit will be more efficient but if you are hooked up to shore power which is already included in the cost of your site, most people don't really care.

But if you are away from shorepower, trying to run an absorption fridge off a battery bank and/or solar panels, gets impractical. Even more so in comparison to a compressor based unit.

RV absorbsion refers do NOT run on 12 volts. They only require milliamps 12 volt to run the controls. 3 way RV refers are NOT designed to be run camping on 12 volt. You MUST have a Truck or hi output charging system to run a 3 way on the 12 volt Heat Element. The 3 way 12 volt heat element is designed to only KEEP the existing temp in the refer and not to cool it down to temp. Doug