Forum Discussion
Bobbo
Jan 05, 2014Explorer II
The question:
The best answer:
Second best suggestion:
Although turning off the MAIN BREAKER in the RV is almost as good as having a cohort unplug the RV in case you do find a bad NEUTRAL.
SDrummer wrote:
A few of you recommended a few tests to do to see if it is actually an open neutral. Now that you guys know this is a 4 prong connection, what is the best test to do to test for an open neutral?
The best answer:
wa8yxm wrote:
To diagnose .. One assumes you have two AC/s.. TURN OFF everythign, in fact turn off the circuit breakers that feed televisions and other electronic devices including your converter.
Leave on only the following
General outlets with nothing plugged into them (NOTE there is another way to do this) you need two such circuits, one on each side of the neutral. and at least ONE of the two air conditioners.
now plug volt meters into both outlets, ANALOG meters work best for this.
Turn on the AC and watch the meters
One drops a volt or 3, other either goes with it or stays static, GOOD
One goes down other goes UP seriously (like more than 10 volts) open neutral.
Second best suggestion:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Buy a 50-amp to 30-amp ADAPTER. Plug the ADAPTED shore power cord into the service.
OK?
Now go inside and load the hell out of the 30-amp 120 volt service.
If there is a flaky neutral involved this LOAD TEST will force it to show up RIGHT NOW. The other 120vac leg will not be connected so there cannot be any danger of a bad neutral causing anything more severe than the power shutting down. I assume of course that the OP's 120vac testing really revealed 120 volts and not an error within the metering device.
BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT
Have someone STAND BY the outside electrical service as you are inside the rig loading down the adapted circuit. A bad neutral can easily flame, and must be opened immediately to prevent a fire.
Although turning off the MAIN BREAKER in the RV is almost as good as having a cohort unplug the RV in case you do find a bad NEUTRAL.
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