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wealthwise's avatar
wealthwise
Explorer
Aug 15, 2013

HWH Kickdown Jacks not working.

It's on an Allegro Bay Diesel Pusher, I changed the sig, but still says my old rig. They last worked about 10 mos ago,ATF was low and I was having trouble finding where the fluid goes, now we are getting ready to go on the road in Oct. and checked it again, I could hear the pump when I moved the levers but no movement of jacks, I added fluid the other day but not enough so I figured like the manual says not enough pressure being built up. So today I added more at first it looked like there wasn't enough, so I tried to add more, a little less than a quart of ATF and suddenly it overflowed. So I tried again, still same deal only the pump did anything, then I went over to where the pump is jiggled a wire and went back to the levers and now the pump won't go on. So could it be a wiring issue, could the pump be bad or is there some other underlying issue, am I going to have to get an RV tech to come and look at it?
I would be very grateful for any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks

9 Replies

  • Good news I tried to hook up to other battery and what you know, they pump activated and it's all working, so it was the battery.
  • Well I guess when I said "jump" I meant connect the wire to the good battery, but IU did consider actually jumping the two batteries together with a jumper cable, I tried to connect the cable to the good battery, but no luck, so now I will try to jump the batteries with the jumper cable with engine running, there should be enough charge in the low battery to test the jacks but if that doesn't work then I guess I'm back to a faulty connection. I will not keep the two connected for two long as I know that can damage a battery, actually I'm trying to see if I can borrow a charger and see if the battery will take the charge. Thanks for the help.

    Update, was able to put the battery on smart charger for a couple hours got to about 12 it's now between 11 and 12, tried the jacks, nothing, jiggled the wires to the pump, nothing, I need to test for voltage to to the pump but not sure how to do that, I found this on another post about the jacks and one of the thing it says is the pump relay could be stuck, how do I check that? Also in that post it says

    "You have a 12 volt battery cable supplying the solenoid. Take a 6 gauge or larger jumper wire and jump from that battery cable to the pump motor. IF the motor runs the solenoid is bad. If the motor does not run the motor is bad" but I don't get it.

    One thing I noticed I turn on the engine accelerate, but I don't notice the battery being charged, isn't it supposed to be charging? I sure hope there's nothing wrong with the alternator, at least I think I know how to check that.
  • wealthwise wrote:
    Thanks for the suggestions, I just came back from checking the connections all seem solid, checked the inline fuse it's good, but what I just noticed is one my parallel batteries up front is at 9.6 volts (looks like cells are dry, going to add some distilled water and see if it helps) and when I try to charge by running the engine the voltage doesn't seem to go up, so now I have a new problem a dying battery, and yes it looks like the pump is wired to that battery, so if the voltage is too low maybe that's why the pump won't activate? I was going to jump the connection to the other battery since it's fully charged and see if that will do the trick, at least so I can test, what do you guys think?


    The discharged battery certainly would cause some if not all of the problems you described. Jumping the battery with the good battery would at least help you diagnose the cause. Obviously you don't want to leave the batteries connected together for very long least you damage/discharge the good battery.
  • dougrainer wrote:
    1. HWH reservoir holds about 6 qts. You only use about 2 qts MAX when all jacks are extended.
    2. You are NOT low and there will be NO air in the system, they are self bleeding
    3. The wire you jiggled at the pump had to be the pump motor solenoid activation wire.
    4. The pump generates 3000 psi and do you have the 4 levers (100 series) or just the 1 lever (200 series)? If 4 lever and when you activated all 4 levers and the pump did not extend any of the jacks, then I would say your pump motor is at fault. The single lever(Joystick) will also activate the jacks but usually in pairs and same thing. If no extension then the pump motor is at fault.
    5. Last, have someone watch the jacks if you can get the pump to operate again. Kick down jacks can sometimes have rusted pivot bearings (the roller that allows the jack to swing down when pressure applied). If so, the jacks will extend straight backward and NOT swing down. If you do NOT release the levers to retract, those jacks will stay extended horizontally. But it would be very uncommon to have all 4 pivot bearings stuck rusted at the same time. Doug


    It's the 4 1 lever,but as I replied above, it could be the battery is low and until I recharge or replace I have no way of knowing.
    Thanks
  • Thanks for the suggestions, I just came back from checking the connections all seem solid, checked the inline fuse it's good, but what I just noticed is one my parallel batteries up front is at 9.6 volts (looks like cells are dry, going to add some distilled water and see if it helps) and when I try to charge by running the engine the voltage doesn't seem to go up, so now I have a new problem a dying battery, and yes it looks like the pump is wired to that battery, so if the voltage is too low maybe that's why the pump won't activate? I was going to jump the connection to the other battery since it's fully charged and see if that will do the trick, at least so I can test, what do you guys think?
  • 1. HWH reservoir holds about 6 qts. You only use about 2 qts MAX when all jacks are extended.
    2. You are NOT low and there will be NO air in the system, they are self bleeding
    3. The wire you jiggled at the pump had to be the pump motor solenoid activation wire.
    4. The pump generates 3000 psi and do you have the 4 levers (100 series) or just the 1 lever (200 series)? If 4 lever and when you activated all 4 levers and the pump did not extend any of the jacks, then I would say your pump motor is at fault. The single lever(Joystick) will also activate the jacks but usually in pairs and same thing. If no extension then the pump motor is at fault.
    5. Last, have someone watch the jacks if you can get the pump to operate again. Kick down jacks can sometimes have rusted pivot bearings (the roller that allows the jack to swing down when pressure applied). If so, the jacks will extend straight backward and NOT swing down. If you do NOT release the levers to retract, those jacks will stay extended horizontally. But it would be very uncommon to have all 4 pivot bearings stuck rusted at the same time. Doug
  • The fact that the jiggling of the wire had an impact, would indicate that it could be a bad wire or connection.
    If you can get at the wires, and check to see that none have come loose, or have worn enough to touch something and ground it.

    Do you notice any difference in the voltage when you energize the pump? Wondering if it's trying to work, but may be seized?
    The fact that it was trying to work, and moved the jacks, leads me to think that the pump is OK. Of course, there could be a leaking valve, that is releasing the fluid back to the tank, so the pressure doesn't build up.

    If you can't safely crawl under the RV with it sitting on the ground, don't do it with the jacks down...this would probably be a time to call an RV Tech.

    If you don't get some good answers on this forum, I'd also suggest that you get in touch with KWH, and see what they suggest. They may be able to walk you through troubleshooting, and save you the cost of the Tech.:)

    Good luck:)
  • If you were down almost a quart of ATF, then I suspect you still have some air in the system and will need to bleed the air out by cycling the jacks. You'll have to let the pump cool down between each attempt. I don't know if the system has a automatic resetting circuit breaker, but that is a possibility. Otherwise, look for a blown fuse. Depending on the age of your coach, you may need to clean the ground wire where it connects to the frame. That is a common reason for electrical problems.

    Finally, check the relay that supplies power to the system. Also, check the relays that turn on or turn off systems depending on the position of the ignition key. They wear out and will start failing intermittently. They are easy to replace and are inexpensive. Good luck.

    This is unrelated, by when the jacks start working again, lubricate them with silicone spray, not WD 40. And, I hoped you used MD3 ATF when you filled the fluid tank.