Issue with Lights
Hi everyone, I have a 2000 Coachman Santara Class A. I'm having an issue with the lights on the motorhome. When I turn on the headlights, everything is working, headlights, taillights, and runnin...
Forum Discussion
Now THAT may be the fault of the motorhome modifications. But the seat itself did not do anything wrong.
I trust NOTHING untested. Your replacement switch may or may not be better than the original. After driving several hours with the lights on, do as I suggested above and grasp the stem of the switch with your fingers. Is it hot? It shouldn't be. And that ends with a PERIOD. No sense dealing with it if it's not a problem.
I do not give a **** what kind of switch it is or where it is IT SHOULD NEVER GET HOT TO THE TOUCH.
And as far as Ford is concerned, the first ignition amplifiers I found clamped to the side of distributors was insulated with clear silicone grease. Ford electrical STUPIDITY. I replaced the modules, roughed up the aluminum surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper and used the proper heat sinking material ZINC OXIDE.
And then there was Ford's 2nd generation alternators. A pair of 25 amp rated push on terminals to carry up to 75 amps of IAR alternator load. Result? FIRES! Not a dozen, not hundreds but THOUSANDS. Ford sleazed out of a general recall.
Transpo Electronics made a fortune modifying alternator rectifiers and changing to a standard stud which fit a freshly drilled hole in the case.
But the 2G, and the headlight switch problem is history. Hopefully a majority of that era's engineers are as well. Fear not, GM and MoPar have their electrical nightmares history as well. Line-em-up. Nissan, Toyota, Schultzwagen and let us not forget the Volvo with wire insulation rotting off under the dash after eight years.
I've said it for years I would have lasted mere minutes in a corporate environment before I went to prison. You can't cure stupid.
I trust NOTHING untested. Your replacement switch may or may not be better than the original. After driving several hours with the lights on, do as I suggested above and grasp the stem of the switch with your fingers. Is it hot? It shouldn't be. And that ends with a PERIOD. No sense dealing with it if it's not a problem.
I do not give a **** what kind of switch it is or where it is IT SHOULD NEVER GET HOT TO THE TOUCH.
And as far as Ford is concerned, the first ignition amplifiers I found clamped to the side of distributors was insulated with clear silicone grease. Ford electrical STUPIDITY. I replaced the modules, roughed up the aluminum surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper and used the proper heat sinking material ZINC OXIDE.
And then there was Ford's 2nd generation alternators. A pair of 25 amp rated push on terminals to carry up to 75 amps of IAR alternator load. Result? FIRES! Not a dozen, not hundreds but THOUSANDS. Ford sleazed out of a general recall.
Transpo Electronics made a fortune modifying alternator rectifiers and changing to a standard stud which fit a freshly drilled hole in the case.
But the 2G, and the headlight switch problem is history. Hopefully a majority of that era's engineers are as well. Fear not, GM and MoPar have their electrical nightmares history as well. Line-em-up. Nissan, Toyota, Schultzwagen and let us not forget the Volvo with wire insulation rotting off under the dash after eight years.
I've said it for years I would have lasted mere minutes in a corporate environment before I went to prison. You can't cure stupid.
