Led lights

I think I saw some from an Amazon seller
If I can find the link again I will post it
We have the same thing in one corner of the bedroom
Never use the darn thing

Have six of those "vanity Lights", the 12VDC bulbs. Found them in CW for something like $25/bulb, yeah right $150.00 for 6 NEW LED Vanity lights.

Better for me to replace the six bulbs or replace the two fixtures? Have not seen a complete LED vanity light fixture.

Ideas?

Dang Mexican mobile internet service! C'mon mex, it's not the fault of the poster. Looking for a good deal on 48 / 50SMD FLAT PANELS. 6X8 or even bigger
But CHEAP A good deal. Neighbors are begging me.

ryanw821 wrote:
I have 48-LED panels from ebay in my RV lights, $20 for 10 of them, about same brightness SLIGHTLY whiter tint that incandescent, and just a fraction of the power draw. Color hasn't shifted on them at all, never even heard of that on a LED.

They aren't perfect at only $2 per light, I had to put new adhesive on them because the junk that came on them only stuck for like a week, but beyond that, they work great and are quite a value.

Link link link link link link link link link link link link link

:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

I have a beef with the lights sold at CW. I purchased some in a pack for $70 about a month or two ago. They are the type that fit into an incandescent socket like many of us have(bayonet type).
Now they're starting to flash while I'm running the generator. The entire light isn't flashing but just one of the rows. There's three lights to a row. To stop the flashing of the affected row I would clip the resistor for that row. I did this thinking this is just an anomaly to this light but it's happening to most of them now. I checked the voltage at the socket while the genny's running and it's 15.5 volts.
My research is telling me that I may need a current regulator to the lights. The resistors on board don't seem to be handling the voltage too well. Nobody ever mentioned anything about the voltage issue on LED's and that they are sensitive to under and overvoltage conditions. This is especially noteworthy when they're being sold in a configuration that gives the impression that you just pop them into your existing fixtures and you're good to go. Well maybe so but NOT if you're running the lights while you're generator is running.
I'm doing some more research on this to see if I can nail this down. I did buy some lights that came in a different fixture and configuration and they're holding up so far but so are some of the bayonet type.

Update 1: Superbrightleds.com has bayonet mount lights sort of like mine and they show teh voltage requirements as 9-14.8 volts so clearly I'm overpowering my bulbs and causing them to fail. You may want to measure the voltage at your wiring prior to installing LEDs in your coach. You may need a power modifier. I'm looking into this now.

Update 2: I need a constant power driver and that can add about an additional $6 per light. Some lights come with CPDs and some don't. Mine obviously don't because the lights I've just looked at with a CPD is WAAAY more robust than my CW lights.

When is the last time we saw someone come on and complain that their ebay LEDs all died?

I purchased a variety of LED lights from superbrightleds.com. They are located in suburban St. Louis, MO and ship via UPS in 1-2 days for most orders. They have chat and phone support to help you select right units. Large variety of lumens and color temps. Very competitive prices. Had one bad unit and they replaced it without question or hassle.

Yes, a usual problem with Ebay LEDs straight from China - cutting corners, no QC, cheating in other words. Some Ebay sellers have a better stock, but even they are not immune. Paying double price in places like Camping World helps, as they do their own QC on spot, through their procurement offices in China, and trying to work with those suppliers that don't let them down too much.

The sole way I have received what was advertised was to purchase individual chips and then mount on heat sinks. This is impractical. But wattage and lumens claims are unregulated. Beware. There is a mountain of bull---- I mean exaggerations waiting for the unwary customer out there.

Wherever you buy them, 2 things you should pay attention to: rated lumens and color temperature.

Lumens mean brightness, to put it simply. One "old" 20W bulb has ~300 lumens.

Color temperature is the "tint". Your old bulb had color temp 2700K-3000K. LEDs of that color are called "white", or "warm white" or "soft white". 4000K-4500K is slightly blu-er, and +5000K is bluer yet. Blue-er shades may be called "bright white" or "cool white". I prefer when they publish color temp numbers rather than those ambiguous definitions.

Flat panel is more efficient than "cob" if you need more focused light, ex. for reading or over your work space. It may have then 200 lumens, but all 200 are firing to where you need it, while a 300 lumens "cob" or your old incadesnce bulb would waste some lumens on illuminating the ceiling and walls, and leaving only 200 for a spot that you need. But if you don't need it focused, then cob is fine, though - usually - more expensive than flat board.