Leveling sensor loction. 1996 Bago Vectra WCM34RQ

Reading through the problems you are having, one side working then the other side, pump running and not stopping, has me asking one question. Did you check your fluid level?

I found mine on my RV.. Imagine a large "X" drawn so the ends of each line are on a corner of your RV... Mine is on the bottom of the "Floor" in a compartment where you can not possibly reach it,, Right where "X" marks the spot.

Doug
I have been working thru the manual link you sent me.
1. I cannot find any ground issues. will check for third time though.
2. Checked the 1,2,3 terminals on relay A... all show 12v +-
3. Switched around the solenoid wiring with the jacks that came down and the ones that didnt... WAS able to get the other two which previously would come down to do so.
4. I then put the wires back the way they belong and tried to get them down here is what happened. The left rear and right front came down, made contact and them pump did not shut off. I turned the system off, hit the auto again and the other two came down.
Heres the catch... this morning I tried to replicate the issue and all i got to come down were the left rear and right front.
I beleive that since I did get the other two to come down when I switched around the wires on the solenoids that the solenoids must be working. I cannot find a ground issue at the rear manifold as I understand the two that are not coming down draw their ground from the rear. As i said , i will pull those again and look.. i did clean them.
Thoughts... could it be the internal check valve? would that be my next check?
thanks in advance

dougrainer

going to start the troubleshooting on the soleniods after this weekend.
I have a question
If the solenoid is out for a jack is it totally out? In other words could it work one time and not the next?
thanks in advance

Doug
I have the straight leg jacks. Thanks...I'm gonna try and get em.to open via the t nut. If or when I break em I'm grateful for the guidance.

1. The new style solenoids have a spring loaded plastic cam that opens and closes them. Makes it real easy
2. On the opposite side of those solenoids are the 4 hoses for the jacks. Using a 5/8 wrench, crack open each line a turn or 2. That will allow any jack that is NOT fully retracted to retract and you will get some fluid dripping out. Then when replacing the solenoids, you will not have any pressure on them. When replacing all 4, make sure you label EACH 2 wire harness to the solenoid. The outside solenoids are the REAR jacks and the 2 inside are the front jacks. Remove all 4 and then start at one end and install each 1/2/3/4. Makes it a whole lot easier to do it. You can also call HWH and they will sell you a special tool to install the NEW style solenoids with a 3/8 rachet. https://www.hwhcorp.com/mr751100_vlv.html. tool number TS42632
well worth the cost.
Last, do you have STRAIGHT acting jacks or do you have KICK DOWN jacks? Doug

Doug
I will do the 4 solinoids. I did try them and only one could be turned by hand. I used a pair of pliers to partially turn one other and was afraid I was going n to break it off and I needed the coach for a few more weekends so I stopped.
1. If I break off the t handle I know I can replace the solenoid as needed but I do not know what to expect when dealing with them. In other words safety (under pressure?) Or anything . I am not a mechanic and I appreciate your help. I just need some guidance. Thanks

1. The level sensor has NOTHING to do with your problem
2. On your dash touch pad the YELLOW lights indicate which corners need to be raised
3. The level sensor has NOTHING to do with manual operation of a 610 system. It will not keep certain jacks from operating.
4. You NEED to go thru the extensive HWH 610 service manual link I sent you.
5. The "Shuttle" valve is a hydraulic valve not a relay. The Shuttle valve fails on retract operation 99 percent of the time, almost never(1 percent) when 3000 PSI is run thru it
6. IF you were at my shop, I would tell you that until the 4 jack solenoids can be manually opened, there is NO WAY to diagnosis your problem. So, I would tell you that I would need to attempt to manually open all 4 T handles and any that failed or broke you would need to replace those broken solenoids. Having Solenoids that fail to manually open means that IF the system fails and you have the jacks extended, it is much more difficult to get those jacks retracted for travel.
7. By opening all 4 solenoids and operating the pump, will be able to see if all 4 jacks extend. That rules out a stuck solenoid but not ruling out an electrical problem that opens the solenoid.
8. Auto level HWH systems have a jack down pressure switch on each jack. Once the jack hits the ground and the pressure switch activates the jack STOPS. The system waits for ALL 4 jacks to hit the ground and activate the pressure switches on each jack. Once that happens the system looks at the yellow lights and extends those pairs that need extending to turn off the yellow light/s to Auto level
9. With your current problem/s, you are just spinning your wheels trying to figure it out. There is NO simple answer for your 22 year old system. Your year model may not have the Integrated Ground wire system that HWH installed on later systems. Your system may have a GROUND wire at each jack, that if not GOOD will cause all sorts of malfunctions. Doug

Me..wizard...it's erratic as well. For instance if I push the rear Jack's to extend maybe one will....then I turn it off and back on and another will.come down...had to eepeat this individually for respective Jack's. My biggest issue is the inconsistent behavior of the system.
I was told.by Winnebago that perhaps the shuttle eelay or pressure switch near the rear hydraulic pump motor is a possibility.
It seems to me that if the control box was bad then it would never work. I suppose the push control pad might be a possibility.....the reason I can't pin it down it I cannot get consistent results.
Thanks

How well does it function
If you use manual mode?