My rig is a 2001. I have the water heater that doesn't have the black knob that says "Pilot" and "On". I just have an on-off switch and inside a water heater gas button that says on and off with a light next to it that says "reset" that isn't on. When I turn the gas button inside to "on" then go outside I hear it going "t-t-t-t-t", trying about 3 times. I've tried lighting it where it shows in the manual to light it and nothing happens. I don't smell any gas at any time. Should I smell some when it's going "t-t-t-t-"? There is no knob that says "pilot" or anything, just that electrical on/off switch which should be left off, yes? Any tips would be appreciated. I think I had it running on gas years ago but haven't run it on gas since.Will it only light during the "t-t-t-t-" moments? I've turned it off and on 3 times now and still no reaction.If I remember right...you can change the heater setting from on and heating the water to just the pilot light with the on/off gas button in side, yes?

You have a DSI (direct spark ignition) water heater. There is no pilot!You can light some with lighter as you tried. But that is not the correct way.You need to check the adjustment on the flame sensor/ignitor.Then clean the contacts on the circuit board. Check the ground on the electric gas valve. Check the two coils on the gas valve with Ohm meter readings should be the same.Suburban owners manual

Thanks for the info. My manual is telling me to light it with a lighter...hmm...See under DSI in this PDF:http://hometips.me/Mar/Suburban_Water_Heater_Service_Manual.pdfIt says to turn on gas *and* electric supply to the water heater. Does that mean the on-off switch that is on the outside of the water heater itself? So when you turn to the off position if it doesn't ignite does that mean the switch on the outside of the water heater or the switch that says "gas" inside. The inside switch is the only one that will start the "t-t-t-t" over again. These aren't well-written instructions.

It runs on electric just fine. And my furnace is working fine so the gas flow is ok.Ahh: Note that if the water in the tank is already heated, the ignition sequence may not occur until the water cools to less than 100 degrees.I just turned it off about an hour ago. This is a good resource for troubleshooting Suburban water heaters:http://www.trekin.digital-digs.net/Share%20PDF/Water%20Heater%20Troubleshooting%20-%20Suburban%20V1.1.pdf

The light at the LP gas switch is supposed to come on during the ignition process ("As for the "on/off" light inside, the light is a "fault" light and will light just momentarily when you turn on the propane switch then go out as the propane system lights up.")....Mine never comes on.

Ok, here's some interesting information. There's a red seemingly insulated connection that comes out of the backing of the water heater's exterior and re-enters near the place there flame is supposed to ignite (is that the ignitor?) and when it's going the 't-t-t-t-t" thing and I touch that I get a shock. And it's completely plastic-coated and rubberized that seems like should tell us something. ?

Lighting pilot in a Suburban H20 Heater (older)

16 Replies

cannesdo
Explorer
Dec 20, 2016
Neighbor helped me out today. The relay is working but not getting power (he ran a wire directly from my batteries to where the brown wire connects and got it to click) so it's looking like the board is the problem.
westend
Explorer
Dec 20, 2016
enblethen wrote:
The red ignition wire is grounded through the ignitor when it arcs.
Or, through a user if he is well grounded.;)

The best thing you can do for your water heater, if it hasn't been used with LP for years, is to disassemble the final operating bits and clean it thoroughly. This involves the gas delivery tube, the orifice, and the igniter. I would suggest to NOT remove the gas valve's delivery piping. If your range and furnace are operating, the last bit of gas piping will be filled with LP and displace the air within a few ignition cycles.
enblethen
Nomad
Dec 19, 2016
The red ignition wire is grounded through the ignitor when it arcs.
cannesdo
Explorer
Dec 19, 2016
dougrainer wrote:
IF the W/H has NOT been used on LP for sometime, I would attempt to light at least 10 times (30 ignition sequences as 3 per time as the board will attempt 3 times per attempt and then lock out). Now, IF the water was already heated to temp, the Ignition sequence would NOT happen. So, the LP tstat is calling for heat. YES, if LP is flowing you should smell unburnt LP.
1. LP gas valve Bad due to inactivity and has locked off
2. Gas Valve orifice clogged due to insects and lack of operation
3. Burner tube clogged(insects/webs) but you should still smell unburnt LP
4. Let the system attempt to light the 3 times(wait 5 minutes for the sequence). The RED indicator light at the On/Off switch SHOULD light to tell you failure of LP lighting. If NOT, then something else is wrong, possible bad circuit board
5. When the Spark sequence starts, put your hand on the Gas Valve. You should feel it open and also Click. That lets you know power is getting to the gas Valve. The CORRECT way to test this is, check for 12 volts on the BROWN wire connected to the Gas Valve when the spark starts. If NO 12 volts, then either the circuit board is bad or the connection of the harness to the circuit board is not tight. Doug

Thanks so much, Doug!

The water heater has been running pretty much non-stop since the RV was new in 2001. I've only used it with gas the first year I had it, 9 years ago. I've probably tried about 10 cycles but I'll do a few more for good measure. Since there is no light and the board is so old my first instinct is to suspect that (would it still run on electric if the board is bad?...because it does).

The gas valve is the little hole where the gas comes out into that little cut-out area, yes?

Where would the ground be for that red wire? I don't think that should be shocking me.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 19, 2016
Hire a mobile RV tech before you injury yourself or others.......this is beyond your abilities as it is obvious from your posts.
cannesdo
Explorer
Dec 19, 2016
aruba5er wrote:
you got more guts than I touching that "red wire?' thing. In excess of 10,000 volts I would guess. I would bleed the gas line right up at the valve. Make sure gas is there. The few seconds that it trys to ignite is not enough time to move much gas to the teeny orfice that is the pilot before ignition. or check to see if you are getting voltage to the valves. Remember, it's only for a few seconds before the curcuit board tells it it has failed to ignite and it shuts off. You must work quick. Good luck.

I didn't touch any metal. It didn't think anything that looks that coated/insulated should be able to shock you. And it didn't at first.

it's a mess. By bleed the gas line do you mean blow compressed air through it?
dougrainer
Nomad
Dec 19, 2016
IF the W/H has NOT been used on LP for sometime, I would attempt to light at least 10 times (30 ignition sequences as 3 per time as the board will attempt 3 times per attempt and then lock out). Now, IF the water was already heated to temp, the Ignition sequence would NOT happen. So, the LP tstat is calling for heat. YES, if LP is flowing you should smell unburnt LP.
1. LP gas valve Bad due to inactivity and has locked off
2. Gas Valve orifice clogged due to insects and lack of operation
3. Burner tube clogged(insects/webs) but you should still smell unburnt LP
4. Let the system attempt to light the 3 times(wait 5 minutes for the sequence). The RED indicator light at the On/Off switch SHOULD light to tell you failure of LP lighting. If NOT, then something else is wrong, possible bad circuit board
5. When the Spark sequence starts, put your hand on the Gas Valve. You should feel it open and also Click. That lets you know power is getting to the gas Valve. The CORRECT way to test this is, check for 12 volts on the BROWN wire connected to the Gas Valve when the spark starts. If NO 12 volts, then either the circuit board is bad or the connection of the harness to the circuit board is not tight. Doug
aruba5er
Explorer
Dec 19, 2016
you got more guts than I touching that "red wire?' thing. In excess of 10,000 volts I would guess. I would bleed the gas line right up at the valve. Make sure gas is there. The few seconds that it trys to ignite is not enough time to move much gas to the teeny orfice that is the pilot before ignition. or check to see if you are getting voltage to the valves. Remember, it's only for a few seconds before the curcuit board tells it it has failed to ignite and it shuts off. You must work quick. Good luck.
enblethen
Nomad
Dec 19, 2016
Circuit board is on the back of the water heater. Some are accessed via removable panel inside the rig.
cannesdo
Explorer
Dec 19, 2016
enblethen wrote:
You have a DSI (direct spark ignition) water heater. There is no pilot!
You can light some with lighter as you tried. But that is not the correct way.
You need to check the adjustment on the flame sensor/ignitor.
Then clean the contacts on the circuit board.
Check the ground on the electric gas valve.
Check the two coils on the gas valve with Ohm meter readings should be the same.
Suburban owners manual

Where is the circuit board?