Low Voltage on One 50A Leg

camperdave wrote:
so as a 30a RVer, sounds like it may be worth carrying two 50a - 30a adapters, one for each line. Pick the one with the higher voltage. Anyone do that instead of plugging into the 30a receptacle?

It's common practice to use a 50/30 adapter for 30A RVs for better voltage.

However voltage continues to vary and a autoformer would be a better option.

Generally this idicates a weak Neutral but it can happen that almost all the park is on one leg (the low one) YOu need multiple voltage meausurements
The Park outlet (Sadly it's hard to measure when plugged in but if the box has 20-3--50 measure the 20 and 30 (use a puck style adapter on the 30 and a plug in meter) as these are usually on different legs (not always)

The park distribution box is also a test point but .... for the park not you.

Camperdave,

You would have to "roll your own". If going that far--why not build a "break out box" so you could have twin 30 amp outlets, one for each "leg". I added breakers to my "box" as well.

camperdave wrote:
so as a 30a RVer, sounds like it may be worth carrying two 50a - 30a adapters, one for each line. Pick the one with the higher voltage. Anyone do that instead of plugging into the 30a receptacle?

at one time I was going to take my continuity tester to the RV stores and test the 30/50 amp pigtails to see if I could find two that were different but thought better of it. :)
you could of course make your own adapter.
bumpy

so as a 30a RVer, sounds like it may be worth carrying two 50a - 30a adapters, one for each line. Pick the one with the higher voltage. Anyone do that instead of plugging into the 30a receptacle?

Gdetrailer wrote:

DrewE wrote:
Such imbalances can also be caused by poor neutral connections; when the neutral has a higher resistance than it should, its voltage tends to float based on the relative loads on the two legs. (The extreme version of this is an open neutral, which generally causes lots of problems and lots of expense in a short period of time.)

If you're seeing such voltage variations pretty consistently, it would be advisable to verify that your RV's power inlet connections, transfer switch connections, etc. are in good shape and properly tightened down.

MEH.

A "poor Neutral" most likely going to cause more other collateral damage depending on just how much draw is on one or both "legs".

As long as both L1 and L2 amperage is equal, then the voltage on both legs will also be equal.

Draw more on L1 and now you get an imbalanced voltage.

I suspect what the OP is seeing is an issue in the campgrounds electrical system coming from MORE 30A 120V usage..

Most pedestals will by default have the 30A 120V outlet on the SAME "Line" and most likely that default IS L1, and more folks will be hooked up to the 30A outlets..

Hence the reason OP is seeing the voltage mismatch..

Bingo, you win.

DrewE wrote:
Such imbalances can also be caused by poor neutral connections; when the neutral has a higher resistance than it should, its voltage tends to float based on the relative loads on the two legs. (The extreme version of this is an open neutral, which generally causes lots of problems and lots of expense in a short period of time.)

If you're seeing such voltage variations pretty consistently, it would be advisable to verify that your RV's power inlet connections, transfer switch connections, etc. are in good shape and properly tightened down.

MEH.

A "poor Neutral" most likely going to cause more other collateral damage depending on just how much draw is on one or both "legs".

As long as both L1 and L2 amperage is equal, then the voltage on both legs will also be equal.

Draw more on L1 and now you get an imbalanced voltage.

I suspect what the OP is seeing is an issue in the campgrounds electrical system coming from MORE 30A 120V usage..

Most pedestals will by default have the 30A 120V outlet on the SAME "Line" and most likely that default IS L1, and more folks will be hooked up to the 30A outlets..

Hence the reason OP is seeing the voltage mismatch..

Such imbalances can also be caused by poor neutral connections; when the neutral has a higher resistance than it should, its voltage tends to float based on the relative loads on the two legs. (The extreme version of this is an open neutral, which generally causes lots of problems and lots of expense in a short period of time.)

If you're seeing such voltage variations pretty consistently, it would be advisable to verify that your RV's power inlet connections, transfer switch connections, etc. are in good shape and properly tightened down.

Have seen differences on the 2 legs of 2 or 3 volts depending upon which A/C is running at the time. Never have seen a 12 volt difference. As mentioned above, verify that the low voltage is not in your rig, then ask the CG if they can fix your pedestal. Some older CGs have wiring issues that can cause these imbalances and cannot be fixed without rewiring the whole CG.

Since 2004 I've had one CG with low 50A voltage. It was a older CG, hot summer day, full sites and everyone running A/Cs.

"several campgrounds" may suggest it's your problem. When was the last time you inspected and tightened ALL AC connections in your 2001 MH? They do become loose as you vibrate and bounce down the road. This should be a periodic maintenace item.