moving from 225R75/16 to 235R85/16 PROBLEMS

Hi,

The first results and impressions:

speedometer error is 8% so at 80 kph reading I am going 85 kph

I found the biggest hill in the area and was able to maintain my usual cruising speed of 80 kph. The tranny downshifted twice. It did the same with the "stock" tires.

1800 rpm = 80 kph (according to gps device) on the OEM tires that was 76 kph.

scan gauge reads 46 mph @ 1800 rpm--confirming the 8% error

Initial trip was with a head wind/side wind. Mileage appears to be measurably improved--but that won't be known for sure until I have a few thousand kilometers "on the clock"

No difference in engine temperature with the larger wheels/tires

It did take about 30 minutes of driving for me to get "used to" the new configuration.

I was on a four lane highway and had no opportunity to see how trucks going the other direction might affect the ride.

At one point there was a gusting wind situation. No extra sway seemed to be evident.

Road noise is reduced--but there is a low pitched rumble that was not there before. It got better (or perhaps I became desensitized to it) as the trip progressed (Regina to Saskatoon, destination Pike Lake, SK)

There was fairly vicious thunderstorm at the Black Strap Valley. I would normally have dropped out of cruise--but decided to risk leaving it on. There was no issue of hydroplaning nor loss of stability.

Ride is somewhat smoother.

I can tell the difference in height--which surprised me a bit.

I hope to find a washboard road tomorrow.

I did "take it up" to 110 kph to pass a slightly slower moving vehicle. I found I was over correcting on the steering at the higher speed.

So far I'm pleased with the results.

I can hardly wait to confirm the increase in miles per gallon. I should know for sure by about July 6th.

pnichols wrote:
Mena,

Well ... I should have added this phrase onto the end ".... but we try to never camp in spots where there are any other campers any closer than about 5 miles." :B :B :C :C

Ha! Too late! :B:W

Mena,

Well ... I should have added this phrase onto the end ".... but we try to never camp in spots where there are any other campers any closer than about 5 miles." :B :B :C :C

pnichols wrote:

I do this when I'm in ultra-quiet situations where nearby campers might not even care for my little Honda's 54dB sound.

I saw this! :B :P

pianotuna wrote:

... I can draw 70 amps from the alternator for the house batteries if they are "hungry".

Yeah .... I do the same thing with my Ford's alternator. I've seen 50+ amps out of the alternator when the coach batteries were down low enough.

I do this when I'm in ultra-quiet situations where nearby campers might not even care for my little Honda's 54dB sound. The Ford's V10 idles way quieter than any generator ... but not as quiet as solar.

Hi pnichols,

256 watts.

I've tried to eliminate generator use. Because I have dual charging paths I can draw 70 amps from the alternator for the house batteries if they are "hungry".

I'm a certified propane miser using less than one liter per month. That will be changing this fall as I'll be semi full time in winter conditions--often with no shore power or at best a single 15 amp circuit to draw from.

Off topic a bit, but:

How much solar power have you got coming from your rooftop panels?

You rig is getting to be really well setup for cold weather camping! You have done A LOT of modifications to make it so.

However, I still don't see any reliable small generator on your list for drycamp battery topping up during a week or more of pouring down rain or snow from dark skies. (just kidding ;) )

Hi pnichols,

The batteries and solar were part of the modifications I've made.

I have added:

4 marine batteries (8 in total including the starter battery)
1 set of braces welded under the compartment I "gave up" for battery storage
4 unisolar panels 256 watts total
2 switches to allow bank selection for charging from solar
1 blue sky 3024di controller with added switch to trigger equalization without disassembling the case.
2 hall effect ammeters
1 additional charging path from the alternator
2 switches to manually control the alternator house battery charging with continuous duty solenoids.
2 automatic circuit breakers to replace the charging path fuses
1 2500 watt msw inverter (next on the list for an upgrade)
2 perko switches to turn off DC power to the inverter (one for each bank)
1 30 amp female outlet powered by the inverter
1 dedicated inverter outlet in the kitchen
1 new rear bumper made from 3/8 steel u tubes this includes a 2 inch receiver
1 roller for tail drag prevention this fits in the OEM 2 inch receiver
2 auxiliary shore power cords (one for converter with two extra outlets, one for the water heater with one extra outlet)
1 energy monitor for monitoring all AC power
1 120 volt outlet in the waste tanks area
1 120 volt switched outlet in the pass through storage
1 120 volt switched outlet in the storage for the water hoses (used in winter time to keep the hoses flexible)
1 120 switched outlet for antifreeze protection for under the sink use
1 fan to blow warm cabin air under the sink
1 heater rod (40 watts) for plumbing to bathroom
1 220 volt incandescent bulb for water pump anti freeze protection
1 charge wizard
1 heater for the waste tanks (100 watts)
2 mechanical thermostats for anti freeze protection (waste tanks and under kitchen cabinets)
1 heater for the pass through storage (100 watts)
2 thermocube TC-3
2 fans in a mask on the fridge chimney thermostatically controlled with added off switch
1 25 watt light bulb in the exterior of the fridge to prevent low temperature freeze ups
2 small surge suppressors--one for the converter and one for the fridge.
1 adapter for the bathroom sink so I can use a water hose with the tank rinse when there is no water at a dump site
1 trik-l-start
2 volt meters
1 scangauge II
1 set air tabs to try to save on fuel. They do cut down wind noise dramatically and when driving with the wind seem to improve mileage. Heading into the wind--there is little difference pre tab and after tab. But the reduced noise was worth the effort.

I've done some no cost or low cost mods such as adding a sleeping bag for insulation over the passenger's side duals (bare metal with no covering at all was the OEM). I could not do the same on the drivers side as there were propane tubes and Romex laying on top. I did manage to wedge in some 1/8 foam. I also disconnected and shut off the outdoor shower. I taped off the holes and filled the compartment with some foam to add a bit of insulation.

In addition all but three of the 120 volt outlets have been replaced with units that would pass code--and extra outlets have been installed where I wanted them.

I have pretty much run out of things to improve on. I'd love to add to the insulation in the floor (spray foam from below?). I'd consider a 2nd alternator. I'd consider upgrading the Blue Sky so it would do up to 20 amps of diversion loading to run a 12 volt "in the drain" water heater element. A remote switch for the inverter would be nice--but the entire inverter is on the "upgrade" list.

pnichols wrote:
Don,

In the description of your RV above, did you forget that huge battery bank in it and all that solar on the roof ... or am I thinking of another RV of yours?

Great timing and impressive mods. I'd love a 150W small water heater element like I have seen some add to their water tanks, and dump solar power to it when the batteries are full. The idea of showing up to the RV in storage with a fan already running to get some air flow, hot water...etc just ready and waiting is very seductive. Not necessary of course, but fun.

The fan could potentially be very inexpensive to set up with a little creativity.

Jim

Don,

In the description of your RV above, did you forget that huge battery bank in it and all that solar on the roof ... or am I thinking of another RV of yours?