Stryker Toy Hauler ST-2916 - Having an electrical issue. TIA for any help! I put the battery back in after winter and plugged the trailer into shore power. Everything seemed okay for several days but now I can't get any 12VDC power so no lights, etc. even when plugged into shore power now. I pulled the power converter out and checked it, still getting 13.7VDC out of it. When I switch back to the battery, nothing, even though the battery has 12.6VDC. I'm not getting the battery power back to the electrical panel either. I checked the fuse at the batter and all is good. There is an "IGNITION PROTECTED" device at the batter that when the shore power is on, and the battery disconnect switch is on, that thing keeps clicking to cut the battery off. The 12VDC will come through and then stops? It resets itself and starts the cycle over again... Everything was working but nothing now. Any ideas? A short near the batter?

The clicking part sounds like an auto resetting circuit breaker. If so they are available at any auto parts store.

opnspaces wrote:The clicking part sounds like an auto resetting circuit breaker. If so they are available at any auto parts store.This!Also, is there any chance the battery is hooked up backwards? The colors of battery wiring on RV's can be rather goofy sometimes!

Your battery is in backwards and the breaker is doing it's job.Once you sort that you may have blown other fuses.

I always look for the - or NEG stamped on the battery case and make sure this is connected to frame ground. Trailers are normally BLACK for + and WHITE for - Frame Grounds but since those are also automotive cabling the color code might be RED for + Positive and - BLACK for Ground.You may even find a RED WIRE connection on top of a BLACK WIRE Connection where the two worlds of TRAILERS and AUTOMOIVE items cross paths haha... I had to replace my JENSEN CAR RADIO and right out of the box came with RED and BLACK WIRES... Where that connected to 12VDC was BLACK and WHITE color connections... Makes old timers turn over in their graves haha...Finding the PLUS + and NEG - symbols stamped on the battery case helps me keep it straight for my setups...If you find them reversed there are two FUSES in the power panel marked REVERSE POLARITY and are usually off to them selves like the the 40A fuses shown here. They will most likely be blown...Google imageRoy Ken

He said it all worked for several days after he put the battery in so not RP.When the converter passed its bench test, where did the 120v come from? Is there 120v to it when in the RV? Anything else 120v in the RV quit working? (As in you washed it and popped a GFCI getting the outside receptacle wet?)Is the resetting CB the "battery fuse" near the battery on the pos wire?.. If not check that too.

No 12VDC Power | Good Sam Community

opnspaces
Navigator II
Apr 10, 2020
The clicking part sounds like an auto resetting circuit breaker. If so they are available at any auto parts store.
ScottG
Nomad
Apr 10, 2020
opnspaces wrote:
The clicking part sounds like an auto resetting circuit breaker. If so they are available at any auto parts store.

This!
Also, is there any chance the battery is hooked up backwards? The colors of battery wiring on RV's can be rather goofy sometimes!
YC_1
Nomad
Apr 10, 2020
Your battery is in backwards and the breaker is doing it's job.

Once you sort that you may have blown other fuses.
RoyB
Explorer II
Apr 10, 2020
I always look for the - or NEG stamped on the battery case and make sure this is connected to frame ground. Trailers are normally BLACK for + and WHITE for - Frame Grounds but since those are also automotive cabling the color code might be RED for + Positive and - BLACK for Ground.

You may even find a RED WIRE connection on top of a BLACK WIRE Connection where the two worlds of TRAILERS and AUTOMOIVE items cross paths haha...

I had to replace my JENSEN CAR RADIO and right out of the box came with RED and BLACK WIRES... Where that connected to 12VDC was BLACK and WHITE color connections... Makes old timers turn over in their graves haha...

Finding the PLUS + and NEG - symbols stamped on the battery case helps me keep it straight for my setups...

If you find them reversed there are two FUSES in the power panel marked REVERSE POLARITY and are usually off to them selves like the the 40A fuses shown here. They will most likely be blown...

Google image

Roy Ken
BFL13
Explorer II
Apr 10, 2020
He said it all worked for several days after he put the battery in so not RP.

When the converter passed its bench test, where did the 120v come from? Is there 120v to it when in the RV? Anything else 120v in the RV quit working? (As in you washed it and popped a GFCI getting the outside receptacle wet?)

Is the resetting CB the "battery fuse" near the battery on the pos wire?.. If not check that too.
ScottG
Nomad
Apr 10, 2020
BFL13 wrote:
He said it all worked for several days after he put the battery in so not RP.

I caught that but if by "all" he meant the (incondescent) lights were working, it could still be in backwards.
Rockwoody
Explorer
Apr 10, 2020
Not RP and I just double checked. Was working fine for several days. I took the inverter out to check in my garage but then realized it had a "special" 120VAC plug so tested in back in-place plugged into the back of the electrical panel. All 120VAC power works when plugged into shore power.. no problem there. So here's two more pieces of information that may be relevant. 1)The fuse on the inverter... one 40 amp fuse was blown, the other 30 amp fuse was found laying on the ground next to the inverter. Did I knock the 30 amp one out? Possibly... you know how they throw these things together at the factory (workmanship is a four letter word to production!) Both fuses are supposed to be 40 amp. 2) It rained since all his started. Can I check the positive cable at the batter to ground and see if I get continuity? A possible short related to the rain? Trailer is less than a year old.
BFL13
Explorer II
Apr 10, 2020
You mean "converter". You need the two RP fuses in the converter.

Not clear what the sequence was for the loss of power and the RP fuse being out of place. Did that happen after the several days or later when you took the unit out?

With the battery ok at 12.x volts, you can leave the converter off and just try to run the rig on battery to find the "open". Yes, start at the battery and work along with your meter until you find 12v on one side and nothing on the other side of a connection. (As time2roll always says on these occasions :) )

The open could be along either the pos or neg path. Rain might get to the frame ground by the battery if exposed.
Rockwoody
Explorer
Apr 11, 2020
Alright folks... boy do I feel dumb! My electrical master brother did a facetime with me this evening to find the issue. I had the positive and negative cables correctly hooked to the battery. What i didn't do correctly is that I installed two additional wires (white and black) to the positive battery terminal. It was supposed to be the white wire to the negative terminal and the black one to the positive terminal. You got to love RV manufacturers and their disregard to normal cable colors indicating +/-. Nonetheless this was 100% my fault! Still don't understand why the problem took several weeks to surface. The only thing I can come up with is that I did not turn the battery disconnect switch until recently. Label your wires when you remove them from the battery for a season. Thanks everyone for you advice and input!
opnspaces
Navigator II
Apr 11, 2020
Glad you got it fixed and thanks for coming back and telling us what you found. I agree with the labeling of the wires, It's also helpful to just take a picture with your phone before you disconnect anything.