No Extra Coolant Temperature Port In Toad Engine
Mitsubishi 3.0 V6 engine in a Dodge.
Wonderful. It has a temperature gauge to stare at once the engine overheats. When the gauge reaches the top of the "operating range" sweep the engine radiator is boiling over. LONG before the last mark before "H"
I can compensate for that. The lower mark of the temperature sweep line is normal operating temperature. Disconnect the wire, the check engine light comes on, the drive train goes into limp mode meaning it sucks.
There is another sensor. One for the engine control module. It must be working because if I disconnect that one the same thing happens as with the coolant temperature sensor. The car passes California Smog easily and gets great fuel economy -- no problems there.
But the original equipment fan motor for the radiator never came on the moment I purchased the car, way back. So I had to rewire the fan motor to start and stop with the ignition via a relay.
This gets ripe - Doodge in their wisdom decided to use a ONE ROW radiator. Bottom line is if the radiator fan quits, and air temps are above 80F, the engine overheats at less than 30 mph and more than 55 mph. Overheating in this case means imminent danger of cracking the cylinder heads. The car needs the fan except in cool weather.
Real life scenario -- outside air temp 65F. Start engine. Drive 3 miles or 15 minutes in typical city traffic and engine temperature climbs past the "normal" range without the fan.
I'm trying to decide whether to install a thermal switch for fan on/off OR an alternative. An Armageddon thermal switch that would trip an audio buzzer and light in the dash. I have some 105C switches that would serve. 220F
Seems pointless to put in an on/off auto switch if the fan is on that much...what do you think?
Here is an adapter mid hose gizmo that requires a caeserian section of the upper hose near the thermostat outlet.
I'd love to find a 2-row core radiator that would fit. Alas the cheapest one costs almost $400 and then the fit is "universal".
I need to buy a spare fan motor and carry an extra Tyco relay.
Wonderful. It has a temperature gauge to stare at once the engine overheats. When the gauge reaches the top of the "operating range" sweep the engine radiator is boiling over. LONG before the last mark before "H"
I can compensate for that. The lower mark of the temperature sweep line is normal operating temperature. Disconnect the wire, the check engine light comes on, the drive train goes into limp mode meaning it sucks.
There is another sensor. One for the engine control module. It must be working because if I disconnect that one the same thing happens as with the coolant temperature sensor. The car passes California Smog easily and gets great fuel economy -- no problems there.
But the original equipment fan motor for the radiator never came on the moment I purchased the car, way back. So I had to rewire the fan motor to start and stop with the ignition via a relay.
This gets ripe - Doodge in their wisdom decided to use a ONE ROW radiator. Bottom line is if the radiator fan quits, and air temps are above 80F, the engine overheats at less than 30 mph and more than 55 mph. Overheating in this case means imminent danger of cracking the cylinder heads. The car needs the fan except in cool weather.
Real life scenario -- outside air temp 65F. Start engine. Drive 3 miles or 15 minutes in typical city traffic and engine temperature climbs past the "normal" range without the fan.
I'm trying to decide whether to install a thermal switch for fan on/off OR an alternative. An Armageddon thermal switch that would trip an audio buzzer and light in the dash. I have some 105C switches that would serve. 220F
Seems pointless to put in an on/off auto switch if the fan is on that much...what do you think?
Here is an adapter mid hose gizmo that requires a caeserian section of the upper hose near the thermostat outlet.
I'd love to find a 2-row core radiator that would fit. Alas the cheapest one costs almost $400 and then the fit is "universal".
I need to buy a spare fan motor and carry an extra Tyco relay.
