As some of you know, I'm familiar with several of the problems, and fixes, that have been discussed. My 1200 has certainly experienced a few. But, here's a new one:First of all, this 1200 has been operating on shore power non-stop from the day I finally fixed the last problem. I went into the MH this morning and right away was greeted by the beep-beep-beep... coming from the NORCOLD frige. I found that the electric heaters had quit heating, but non of the fuses or circuit breakers indicated anything. I switched the unit to propane mode, it lit up, and apparently started operating on propane in normal fashion.I checked the main NORCOLD circuit board and found a black soot area above the terminal blades where the black wires that come from the electric heaters connect. I pull these two wires off, and took a picture. Has anyone seen this before? What might've happended? Any suggestions?

doesn't look good....first I've heard of this.

Well, clearly it burned up..I assume the lug was on the AC HT blade? Got a good picture of the spade lug? Looks to me like the lug/wire crimp went high impedance.If thats all it is, and it were me, I would wash the board down with Alcohol and an acid brush, dry, re-crimp, and try again

Right away I could not see any burnt material that would explain where the soot was generated.There are two heating elements, each one with one black wire and one yellow wire. The photo doesn't clearly show that I disconnected/pulled off the two black wires two black wires from the blade terminals which are to the left of the still-connected yellow wires.However, I can't detect any burnt insulation from either of the two black wires.I can test the two heaters by checking the resistance, and I will do that. But, I have no way to test the circuit board. It's the original board, therefore I feel that I should just go ahead and order a new one anyway.I was kinda waiting to see if Doug would offer an opinion.Thanks

Most replace those boards with ones from Dinosaur Electronics. They have improvements and last longer than the original per long time full-timers. Because of these recommendations, that is what we replaced ours with. Great so far and it's been in for about a year.

Ours did the same thing in year 6. Same symptoms. Board looked the same. In year nine it (the fridge cooling unit) almost burned down the coach. Replaced with residential at that time.

NORCOLD 1200 LRIM tech question...UPDATE 1 | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

doxiemom11
Explorer II
May 06, 2013
Yes dino does -- we have one in our 1200 from about 1 year ago -- maybe they stopped making them, but they were available and made when we needed one.
Cloud_Dancer
Explorer II
May 06, 2013
According to the Norcold part number on my circuit board, and the serial number on my refrigerator, the correct part number for the corresponding Dinosaur circuit board is 6212XX. Therefore, I ordered one from American RV Company, for $193.
I will report back after I install it, and test it,....might be about 10 days.
Thanks
John___Angela
Explorer
May 04, 2013
dougrainer wrote:
Cloud Dancer wrote:
Right away I could not see any burnt material that would explain where the soot was generated.
There are two heating elements, each one with one black wire and one yellow wire. The photo doesn't clearly show that I disconnected/pulled off the two black wires two black wires from the blade terminals which are to the left of the still-connected yellow wires.
However, I can't detect any burnt insulation from either of the two black wires.
I can test the two heaters by checking the resistance, and I will do that. But, I have no way to test the circuit board. It's the original board, therefore I feel that I should just go ahead and order a new one anyway.
I was kinda waiting to see if Doug would offer an opinion.
Thanks

I did not respond yet as I have never seen that before. My opinion is the relay box and or resistor next to it is the culprit. Regardless, you NEED to replace the board as the smoke has been released and you cannot reinstall the smoke:B Interesting that another poster stated he had the same thing and instead of FIXING the obvious defect, he let it go and then stated the unit caught fire and almost burned down his unit and then states he replaced with a residential. IF he had fixed the defect, he would NOT have had that problem later. The refer did not almost burn down his RV. HE DID, by not fixing an obvious problem. Doug

Goor morning. I think you may have read too much into my brief statement or maybe I didn't elaborate enough. The board failed. I replaced it. 3 years later the fridge burned for unrelated reason (cooling unit issue common to these units). The board did not cause a fire, although it stunk the rig up a bit. Original post edited for clarity.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
May 04, 2013
It has to be either the relay or that resistor, which is a 2 watt resistor (though it looks like the relay).
dougrainer
Nomad
May 04, 2013
doxiemom11 wrote:
Most replace those boards with ones from Dinosaur Electronics. They have improvements and last longer than the original per long time full-timers. Because of these recommendations, that is what we replaced ours with. Great so far and it's been in for about a year.

Please post the P/n for a 1200 Dino Board. Dino does not build a replacement for 1200/1210 Norcold refers. Doug
dougrainer
Nomad
May 04, 2013
Cloud Dancer wrote:
Right away I could not see any burnt material that would explain where the soot was generated.
There are two heating elements, each one with one black wire and one yellow wire. The photo doesn't clearly show that I disconnected/pulled off the two black wires two black wires from the blade terminals which are to the left of the still-connected yellow wires.
However, I can't detect any burnt insulation from either of the two black wires.
I can test the two heaters by checking the resistance, and I will do that. But, I have no way to test the circuit board. It's the original board, therefore I feel that I should just go ahead and order a new one anyway.
I was kinda waiting to see if Doug would offer an opinion.
Thanks

I did not respond yet as I have never seen that before. My opinion is the relay box and or resistor next to it is the culprit. Regardless, you NEED to replace the board as the smoke has been released and you cannot reinstall the smoke:B Interesting that another poster stated he had the same thing and instead of FIXING the obvious defect, he let it go and then stated the unit caught fire and almost burned down his unit and then states he replaced with a residential. IF he had fixed the defect, he would NOT have had that problem later. The refer did not almost burn down his RV. HE DID, by not fixing an obvious problem. Doug
SCVJeff
Explorer
May 04, 2013
Looking at that closer it looks like the fire/ flare might have come from the relay.
John___Angela
Explorer
May 03, 2013
Ours did the same thing in year 6. Same symptoms. Board looked the same. In year nine it (the fridge cooling unit) almost burned down the coach. Replaced with residential at that time.
doxiemom11
Explorer II
May 03, 2013
Most replace those boards with ones from Dinosaur Electronics. They have improvements and last longer than the original per long time full-timers. Because of these recommendations, that is what we replaced ours with. Great so far and it's been in for about a year.
Cloud_Dancer
Explorer II
May 03, 2013
Right away I could not see any burnt material that would explain where the soot was generated.
There are two heating elements, each one with one black wire and one yellow wire. The photo doesn't clearly show that I disconnected/pulled off the two black wires two black wires from the blade terminals which are to the left of the still-connected yellow wires.
However, I can't detect any burnt insulation from either of the two black wires.
I can test the two heaters by checking the resistance, and I will do that. But, I have no way to test the circuit board. It's the original board, therefore I feel that I should just go ahead and order a new one anyway.
I was kinda waiting to see if Doug would offer an opinion.
Thanks

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NORCOLD 1200 LRIM tech question...UPDATE 1

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