Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??

Thanks for your explanation. We love our residential refrigerator and with the large volume, would never consider an absorption unit.
Ernie Ekberg
Prevost Liberty

erniee wrote:
If the recall box is doing it’s job, how come you have to reset it with a magnet

Like all things man made, they have their quirks and especially for a fix that was made as cheap as possible for satisfying the government.
A little more money and it would reset on it's own with unwarranted nuisance tripping or at least for just having to turn the power off and back on. I think that's what I had to do with with my ARP until I moved the sensor up a bit. One must remember that the ARP is much more temp. sensitive. Then again, like Doug said, he could have been way off level and for causing the fridge to overheats. I believe that's what happens anyway.
In the case of the OP, it's pretty obvious that his fridge never even got to 350F and proven by the fact that he has both units hooked up in his fridge.
As for me, I'm just glad I have a simple low energy compressor unit now with most of the garbage gone. Thing is with a Norcold, most were inefficient and didn't earn the nickname NEVERCOLD for nothing.

If the recall box is doing it’s job, how come you have to reset it with a magnet

erniee wrote:
Thank you for your response. Since you have been in the business as long as I have been in flooring, enlighten us why the recalls and published recalls and the magnet trick to bypass the recalls was done.
I have owner 15+ TVs, so, I too, know a “little’.

I just have one question here and as to why you refer to the ...magnet trick to bypass the recalls... as a bypass when it's only to reset the thing, so it will do it's job?

Oh, I just did a google search for norcold fires. There were a “couple” of posts over many forums about this topic

Thank you for your response. Since you have been in the business as long as I have been in flooring, enlighten us why the recalls and published recalls and the magnet trick to bypass the recalls was done.
I have owner 15+ TVs, so, I too, know a “little’.

erniee wrote:
Boy, you have your head in the sand. There have been tons of burned down coaches . Why the Norwood settlement lawsuit? Just for that reason.
If they are so safe why have there been recalls on the recalls?
Hope you have a fire suppression system on your “safe” norcold

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My head in the sand?????? I have over 50 years experiance in the RV industry. I have 41 years as a RV Technician and a MASTER RV TECHNICIAN for over 25 years and was one of the FIRST to get a Master when the RVIA came out with the designation. I have worked on well over 500 hundred 1200 series Norcolds and have NEVER seen a severe fire that resulted from a leaker 1200 CU. Remember, other factors can cause a fire in a 1200 refer. I don't own a RV, never have. But, I have worked continously in the RV industry for that 50 years and the publications and reports over those years show no problems inherent in the Absorbsion Refers or the 1200 specifically. YOU are ignorant of the reason lawsuits are settled. Lawsuits like this one just generated money for the Lawyers. Norcold settled, because it would have cost more to fight the charges. Ignorant Fire inspectors or People that had a fire WANTED someone to blame Norcold. Yes, as in all products, there have been fires from a leaking AMMONIA Cooling unit. ALL models and brands of Ammonia CU's can catch fire if the leak is bad enough and the LP FLAME is ON. NO fires if on 120 volt and it leaks. BUT, a catastrophic leak can happen and if NOT on LP no possible fire. If the leak happens when the refer is not ON, then the Ammonia leaks out, dissipates into the air, and the next time the refer is turned ON, NOTHING HAPPENS, except NO COOL and you see the tell-tale yellow powder. I have seen numerous fires on refer units over my 41 years and usually caused by leaking LP connections at the refer or insect/animal nests in the burner area of the refer that catch fire. I have worked on thousands of refers and RV's in 41 years and I would have no problem having my friends and loved ones and even myself operate a 1200 Norcold. Which I HAVE used on the few occasions I have vacationed with a used unit that had a 1200 in it. Like I stated, stick to "flooring" and leave the rest to true experts. Doug

Boy, you have your head in the sand. There have been tons of burned down coaches . Why the Norwood settlement lawsuit? Just for that reason.
If they are so safe why have there been recalls on the recalls?
Hope you have a fire suppression system on your “safe” norcold

tropical36 wrote:

supercub wrote:
Thanks for the info. I have the ARP, I also installed a fire extinguisher and the unit is in very good condition. I frequently check it for any leaks, and it has worked great for years. So I really see no need to replace it. This is only the second time the safety switch has tripped and both times have been to washing. Thanks again for the help.

Sounds like you have the ARP connected in series with the NC device.
I didn't do that and see no need even though it says to. ARP has to say that for liability reasons. I mean if it's OK for NC's at a cutoff of 600F or so, why isn't it OK for the lone ARP to trip at around 350F?
Biggest thing with the compressor versions is for quick and deep cold, along with quick recovery's with the door openings and closings.
I get it though and didn't convert mine, until it gave up the ship.

I also would remove the Norcold box and just use the ARP system. The 350 degree trip is the CU DAMAGE temp. The 700 Norcold is for when you have NO ventilation or the CU is blocked or leaks. The MAIN cause of RV Ammonia failures is off level operation. The ARP device trips at 350 because when off level, the flue temp rises. This stops the Operation to protect the CU. Most RV'ers do not understand that when operating off level even for 1 hour, THAT, cause a very small breakdown of the CU and all those times when they run off level it accumilates until a few years down the line the Refer fails to do the job. They then think, POS refer. But, THEY caused the failure. They run off level and then they notice that nothing seemed to happen. They dismiss the importance of level because they think nothing happened. Doug

supercub wrote:
Thanks for the info. I have the ARP, I also installed a fire extinguisher and the unit is in very good condition. I frequently check it for any leaks, and it has worked great for years. So I really see no need to replace it. This is only the second time the safety switch has tripped and both times have been to washing. Thanks again for the help.

Sounds like you have the ARP connected in series with the NC device.
I didn't do that and see no need even though it says to. ARP has to say that for liability reasons. I mean if it's OK for NC's at a cutoff of 600F or so, why isn't it OK for the lone ARP to trip at around 350F?
Biggest thing with the compressor versions is for quick and deep cold, along with quick recovery's with the door openings and closings.
I get it though and didn't convert mine, until it gave up the ship.