Norcold N611 acting odd, affected by interior coach lights

Actually three different posts said to check for the voltage at the refrigerator. And the reply below by Settler shows they get it that they need to test, but are not sure how to test.

seattler wrote:
Okay, this is going to make me sound like I've got no business trying to self-diagnose this, but I'm not 100% clear where to put the leads on my multi-meter to test the voltage coming into the refrigerator terminal block, but I'm going to do some googling and see if I can figure it out. (I did check the 5amp fuse for the reefer in the main fuse box.) I believe that where I need to test is outside the coach in the reefer panel where the power comes into the control board. And to your point that the clicking might in fact be the gas igniter, I am just not clear what that sounds like.

Agreed on the year make and model of the coach. I went through the manuals from Chris Bryant. But it looks like there are three different boards in the N600 series of refrigerators so I held off on saying where to put the leads.

Jeeez, ALL these posts and at no time, did someone suggest to check the 12 volts at the BACK of the refer. You need to check for 12 volts plus. ALSO, you need to check that your Power Converter is functioning. IF SO, your 12 volt system should show 12.9 to 13.5 volts. Also, ALWAYS post Year, Brand/Model of RV. Do you have Fluorescent interior lights in the RV. The ones that you can turn off and on to cause the refer to malfunction? IF SO, older RV's with Fluorescent lights had what is called AC ripple, from defective Ballasts in the light assbly's. Even tho the lights are 12 volt, defective ballasts can cause AC ripple in the DC system and cause appliances to act up. Respond with answers to these questions and the voltage readings I suggested. Doug

does the ticking occur in series of three? Then pause for about 5 to 10 seconds then tick three times again? If so that is probably your igniter trying to light the flame.

Try this. Get a helper. Then on the front of the front panel of the refrigerator turn it off. Go outside and with the access cover open look and listen inside the back of the refrigerator cabinet. Have your helper turn the refrigerator back on.

Is the ticking coming from the back of the refrigerator?

Thanks JBarca and enblethen for your thoughts. JBarca, I didn't make a typo, but I wasn't very clear. Yes, no matter if the coach interior lights are on or not, the fault codes are the same. But only when I turn the dome light on does the clicking go away. So I like your idea that maybe the dome light drawing some power means that the 12V system isn't quite right..a short or something. But it does seem odd to me that when the sink light is drawing power is when the fridge stops it' cycling. And yes, you understood correctly that the interior fridge light blinks off with each clicking of the fridge. I'm not sure if I can post videos to this forum, but I'll try. Okay, this is going to make me sound like I've got no business trying to self-diagnose this, but I'm not 100% clear where to put the leads on my multi-meter to test the voltage coming into the refrigerator terminal block, but I'm going to do some googling and see if I can figure it out. (I did check the 5amp fuse for the reefer in the main fuse box.) I believe that where I need to test is outside the coach in the reefer panel where the power comes into the control board. And to your point that the clicking might in fact be the gas igniter, I am just not clear what that sounds like. The gas has been filled and the lines have been bled, (including running the gas stove-top for a few minutes.) The clicking definitely is still happening when in Gas Mode also, but again, it seems electrical in nature, because the interior reefer light is also going on and off with each click.) Thanks again for all of your help everyone, I'm still investigating!

Definitely get a meter and check that the the coach and refrigerator are getting a full 12.7+ voltage

My neighbor had a problem with his refrig.. not cooling and his one a/c not working. Turned out to be the battery. New battery and all is good.

Your converter could be the problem. You need good 12-volts DC to refer. The converter or shore power is not providing proper power so the refer is cycling to propane.
Verify voltage to the refer with a good meter.
Try to listen for clicking while testing voltage. This needs to be done in outside access to refer.
It is possible that circuit for the refer is failing. I somewhat do not think it is failing.

Hi,

I am not up on the Norcolds, but I know the Domnetic well. They both work close to the same.

You may have a typo in your note. In blue, you say when the light over the sink is on, it makes the fault code, and the gas light stays on

And in red, you say if you turn the light "on" over the sink, the clicking noise goes away. Did you mean you turned the light "off," and the clicking went away?

seattler wrote:
Hi All! We are at home and plugged into house power. After a few months of normal use, the Norcold N611 refrigerator has started acting weird. It is not cooling. Additionally, no matter whether the fridge is set to Auto or Gas,

the fridge is affected by whether or not any of the coaches overhead light fixtures are turned on!!! If the light fixture over the sink is turned on, then the refrigerator panel shows the amber GAS light stays on, and the green ON light blinks 3 times every 3-4 seconds.

According to the manual, this is the fault code that indicates that the heating unit is faulty, and will need to be serviced/replaced. However, if I turn off all coach interior lights, the refrigerator behaves differently...the lights behave the same (same fault code), but in addition the unit makes a persistent clicking noise that I believe is the opening and closing of an electrical relay switch.

(And not to be confused with the overhead lights in the coach, but the interior light in the refrigerator blinks on an off with each click of the relay). Again, if I just turn on the light over the sink, that noise from the fridge goes away.

I already replaced the thermistor. I'm happy to also replace the control board for about $175, but I don't understand why the other lights in the coach would be affecting the refrigerator. Is there something weird with my 120V power supply? I have also heard that there might be a fuse on the circuit board that I could check.

You did not state if the LP gas was turned on and the air bled from the system. The fridge should have ignited the gas or gone into a gas fault after enough tries trying to light the fridge. Assuming the fridge is working right

If the fault code shows the electric element is faulty and you hear clicking, the clicking can be the gas igniter trying to work, not a relay. If you are in Auto and the 120 VAC at the fridge goes out, or if the controller thinks there is an electric element fault, or if you are in Gas mode, the igniter will start clicking.

As was said, you may have a 12-volt power supply at the fridge issue. It might be a ground issue at the fridge not allowing the 12 VDC negative not to make contact. OR do you have a local problem with the 12 VDC + supply to the fridge? Yes, the rest of the lights in the camper work, but that does not mean the fridge is getting a full 12 VDC supply.

Ideally, you have a volt meter and check the incoming 12-volt power at the fridge terminal block feeding the fridge. If you are plugged into shore power, and the converter is working, you should have 13.00. VDC or higher going into the fridge. (yes, 13.00 volts is correct, as 13.25 volts is float mode if your converter has a float feature, 13.65 is standard charge.) If you are on battery only, 12.7 VDC is all you will ever get 100% charged. If you have 12.1 volts, that 50% state of charge. Tenths of volts mean something,

If you do not have the 13.00 plus volts with the converter on, figure that out first. Also, look at all the ground wires on the fridge, if there is corrosion, clean it up.

The light over the sink may be on the same power feed to the fridge and when you turn. When that light is on, it can draw some power going to the fridge if there is a supply issue. . If the light inside the fridge blinks with each clock of the igniter, this points to the 12-volt supply power not being ample to run loads of the fridge.

I would not change a control board until you know for sure if more is working or not. You can test the electric element to be shorted out as that fault might be real.

The thermister has nothing to do with this at this point.

Hope this helps

John

Thanks jkwilson! Hmm...I think the 12V power is definitely on, since all of the lights in the coach are working, and the refrigerator has 12V power to the control panel, although it is cycling on and off it seems like, which may mean a faulty relay?

The problem is in your 12V supply. Check your battery disconnect switch and verify that your converter is producing power.