Forum Discussion
dougrainer
Jul 26, 2015Nomad
Ron Nielson wrote:dougrainer wrote:
That is why I would want to know the digital amp draw on the 120 volt heat element wiring. Doug
I don't have a meter to show amp draw, only volts.
At my house, it is about 60 feet from the breaker box to the external garage, then thru 10 ga ext cord another 100 ft to the trailer, then the 30 amp cord about 30 ft to the power center. So the 120 volts at the house is never 120 at the trailer. Usually 114 - 116 on a good day, a few volts less when it's hot with the a/c on. And that's kind of the voltage I see when out camping in the summertime.
When that ~114 volts are fed direct to the heating element, I get good cooling. Still don't understand why everyone is saying change the thermistor. The thermistor controls both gas and electric operation the same, and on gas, the fridge works wonderfully and the setting of the temps on gas works wonderfully. So, can changing the thermistor be the solution?? If it is, I would like for someone to explain it to me so I would understand WHY it needs to be changed. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just want to UNDERSTAND. If you don't UNDERSTAND, you don't LEARN. I can take the trailer to the RV replace to have it repaired if I just want it fixed. But I wouldn't LEARN ANYTHING.
I agree with your thought. IF it works correctly on LP but not on 120, then do not replace the Thermister. But, you still have a 120 volt supply problem. UNLESS, you have an aftermarket 120 element or an Element that is NOT the correct wattage for your refer. That is why I would want to know the amp draw of the element. Doug
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