Poor Dometic A/C on 2019 Jayco Jayfeather X23E

You can take it back for warranty or save the time and trouble. BY, using AC foil tape and seal those areas. That is what the dealer will do under warranty. Doug

dougrainer wrote:
You can take it back for warranty or save the time and trouble. BY, using AC foil tape and seal those areas. That is what the dealer will do under warranty. Doug

I feel like at the very least, the plastic part below the roofline (air distribution box?) should be dropped to get proper access to all that stuff. It looks like some wood screws around the perimeter and two bolts behind the intake cover. Is this reasonably straightforward for a DIYer?

Seal it up. The "copper thingy" is your thermostat sensing bulb.

Do it yourself. A quick fix and not worth the hassle with the dealer. Plus, you'll know it's done right

X2 they don,t know how to do it right,, just fast.

As stated.....
Seal it up with A/C Foil Tape
Return side (warm) and discharge side(cold) should not mix

That 'copper thingy' is the air temp sensor for the panel mounted thermostat
not a 'freeze probe'

Ceiling grille....
2 sheet metal screws in 'return'
8 wood screws ---2/each side

That will expose the metal ceiling template
The 'black' divider block in rear appears to be one row too tall
(divider block is trimmed to fit----then slides into channel on template when template is installed)
With it a bit too tall the ceiling template is not being pulled up TIGHT against the foam seal allow cold air to leak over into return side
4 Mounting bolts hold template to ceiling AND A/C Unit to roof


Pgs 8 - 11
http://www.dyersonline.com/downloadfile/download/aitfile/aitfile_id/2562/

Common problem. Improper installation at the factory. Took mine to an RV shop who did a great job sealing it up with A/C foil tape under warranty.

I took the trailer to the dealer a couple months ago, and as most of you suspected, they applied foil tape. On our next camping trip, the A/C was still poor. When I removed the access cover, I saw some of the foil tape had lifted. I pressed it back down. I still felt cold air in the intake, but I didn't have angle of sight to see where it came from.

I purchased two Lascar EL-USB-2-LCD+ datalogging temperature/humidity probes and a Wemo Insight datalogging smart outlet. When everything arrived, I set up the trailer in our driveway and logged the performance over four days.

For the experiment, all bunks had Reflectix inserts installed, all bunk curtains were closed, all interior lights were off, no people were in the trailer, the A/C was set to lowest temp and highest fan speed, and I had a box fan on its lowest speed to circulate the air inside the trailer. The inside temperature probe was placed on the dinette table:



During the experiment, we had a strong thunderstorm and overnight power outage. I reset the breaker the next morning.

After a few days, I pulled all the data. Here's a graph of the power consumed by the entire trailer:



The trailer's baseline power consumption was 100W (probably the inverter) at the very left. With the A/C on, the trailer power oscillated between 400W and 1500W as the compressor switched on and off. However, it was difficult to determine how hard the A/C was running because all the up/down lines just kind of blobbed together.

So, I wrote some perl scripting to compute what percentage of time the compressor was on versus off (the duty cycle). Then I plotted that against the temperature, relative humidity, and dew point data from the temperature sensors. Here's the result:



Despite the A/C being set to maximum cooling, the interior temperature remained between 70F-75F during the day. The A/C ran at around 50% duty cycle during the hottest part of the day. During the fourth day, which was the hottest, the A/C yielded only a 6F delta between the outside (80F) and inside (74F) temperature. At night, the humidity in the trailer rose to 75%-80% because the A/C was not inclined to run.

Not sure what to do next.

While you have a lot of testing info. It does not really help. The SIMPLE thing is to have a qualified Dometic Service center do
1. Temp corrected amp draw of the compressor. This will tell you if the system is correctly charged and operating correctly for cooling
2. Verify and seal off those areas you stated the foil tape seemed to NOT be sealed correctly still.
3. Verify the Temp probe for the tstat is in the correct place. Doug

dougrainer wrote:
While you have a lot of testing info. It does not really help. The SIMPLE thing is to have a qualified Dometic Service center do
1. Temp corrected amp draw of the compressor. This will tell you if the system is correctly charged and operating correctly for cooling
2. Verify and seal off those areas you stated the foil tape seemed to NOT be sealed correctly still.
3. Verify the Temp probe for the tstat is in the correct place. Doug

Respectfully, I disagree that my testing did not help. It confirmed that all the stuff you said is necessary. :)