power flickers when a/c kicks off...(Not on) 3 times now.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
MONSTER 17 volt units for automotive



https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-X-15KP17CA-R-6-VISHAY/332599143227?hash=item4d70742b3b:g:Zj0AAOSwihpauYkc

Just a bidirectional diode... To supress. Ummm where inline would I want this?

And would it not be best to find the cause and attack it from that way instead of a patch..

Why is the a/c surging voltage when kicking off?

So its surging the power center I was assuming. And with that cutting power off the main breaker without tripping it..

Its all I can think of.

Seems they have a siemens 30/20 dual breaker in there.

Maybe ill just change that to another brand..?????

Cutler Hammer
Thomas Betts
ITE/Siemens
Square D
Murray
Model/Cat. No./Type
Type BR and C
Type TB or TBBD
Type QP or QT
Type HOM or HOMT
Type MP-T or MH-T


Am I thinking right here?

Also I believe this only happens when fan is on high speed and the a/c kicks off. ( But only happened 4 times in less then two weeks)

Ive been running a/c fan on low speed as of lately

MONSTER 17 volt units for automotive



https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-X-15KP17CA-R-6-VISHAY/332599143227?hash=item4d70742b3b:g:Zj0AAOSwihpauYkc

wa8yxm

I think your answer is definitely on the right track. R.V. Electrical control mechanisms used to be utterly analog mechanical. Not. Any. More.

I used to challenge doubters to do their own test. Keep touching the starter motor contact the power contact as the motor chugs over the engine to start then the key is released when the engine stats.

ZOT
SUR-
JOLT
PRISE!

I had to suppress a mobile office A/C unit, because shutoff signal was jolting the unit off-line. Total shutdown not merely compressor cutout.


LITTLEFUSE 5KP is my favorite for this kind of work Bi-Directional. 5KP190CA to be specific. It responds in 5 one billionths of a second. Earth ground must be viable for this suppressor to work. I use them in parallels of (5) units. But I also clamp line to neutral. Then neutral to earth.

I have such a system integrated with my Sola ferroresonant line tamer. But on a recloser circuit. Three times and you're out. A mechanical outage.

Such behavior as the OP's delinquent interaction between the A/C and Switches and selector is preventable.

Thinking out loud can it be the main breaker? Even though its not tripping its disconnecting internally?

Someone said high voltage may shut down converter, but wouldn't this just be the charging section?

wa8yxm wrote:
I see a lot of comments that are proper for the power dropping when the compressor kicks IN. but he said it happens when the compressor kicks OUT.

I do not know if the RV has an inverter or a "Surge Guard" but ....

Some inverters do not switch over fast enough to prevent reset on SOME clocks.

And there are many parallels between electricity and water. For example we speak of the FLOW of electrical current (And for good reasons)

Wires are like pipes Too small a wire and you loose voltage as current increases
Too small a pipe.. Pressure as Flow Rate (Amprage or GPM) increases.

Well unless you have some devices called water hammer arresters when you suddenly shut off the flow of water.. The PIPES rattle.
If you had a very responsive pressure gauge at the faucet you'd see a SPIKE in pressure, followed by some rollarcoasting and finally normal pressure.

Same with electricity. This is a SURGE which the guard will cut you off for. And by the time the inverter kicks in the clock resets.

No surge guard. No inverter ( My inverter is a separate entity and not tied into the rv's electrical a/c side).

So we can all assume its an over voltage situation when a/c kicks off. In turn it shuts the converter off for split second.

What part of converter would cause this?

I see a lot of comments that are proper for the power dropping when the compressor kicks IN. but he said it happens when the compressor kicks OUT.

I do not know if the RV has an inverter or a "Surge Guard" but ....

Some inverters do not switch over fast enough to prevent reset on SOME clocks.

And there are many parallels between electricity and water. For example we speak of the FLOW of electrical current (And for good reasons)

Wires are like pipes Too small a wire and you loose voltage as current increases
Too small a pipe.. Pressure as Flow Rate (Amprage or GPM) increases.

Well unless you have some devices called water hammer arresters when you suddenly shut off the flow of water.. The PIPES rattle.
If you had a very responsive pressure gauge at the faucet you'd see a SPIKE in pressure, followed by some rollarcoasting and finally normal pressure.

Same with electricity. This is a SURGE which the guard will cut you off for. And by the time the inverter kicks in the clock resets.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
OK time to tinker. Need INCANDESCENT lamp fixture. Remember the old fashioned threaded light bulbs? Yes that kind.

Put on same LEG as A/C

It should flicker-brighter when A/C cycles off. Flicker means exactly that a momentary flash then possible outage.

Automatic
Transfer
Switch

Generator/Shore power

OK I can do that. But it only happened 4 times. Otherwise all operation is normal.

I only know it happens is becuase.

a. the computer screen goes off and on in split second.
b. the time on clock on microwave needs to be reset.

Its so quick. Like blinking your eyes...

OK time to tinker. Need INCANDESCENT lamp fixture. Remember the old fashioned threaded light bulbs? Yes that kind.

Put on same LEG as A/C

It should flicker-brighter when A/C cycles off. Flicker means exactly that a momentary flash then possible outage.

Automatic
Transfer
Switch

Generator/Shore power

time2roll wrote:

lawrosa wrote:

time2roll wrote:
OK now check each junction along the way to the RV and see where it jumps to 135+
I speculate you will find a loose or corroded neutral wire connection.

Must be out at the outlet?

I tightened all neutrals while I was in panel.

( Umm I don't think they are really called neutrals. Isnt that on a 4 wire? Isn't it common on 3 wire?

Neutral is the white wire. Generally black or red are the hots.

I believe Common vs Neutral is the same thing. Although branch circuits are just 120v they still share the neutral(common) with the other side of the panel.

High voltage in a split phase system is generally created when a shared neutral has a poor connection and does not carry the imbalanced load properly. Since the main panel has correct voltage there must be something down stream. Could be in the RV itself. Measure under load as no load will have no issues.

Posted 120v at the panel and 135v in the RV. There must be a point where that changes. Is there a sub-panel?

Read my last reply... kilowatt shot....

lawrosa wrote:

time2roll wrote:
OK now check each junction along the way to the RV and see where it jumps to 135+
I speculate you will find a loose or corroded neutral wire connection.

Must be out at the outlet?

I tightened all neutrals while I was in panel.

( Umm I don't think they are really called neutrals. Isnt that on a 4 wire? Isn't it common on 3 wire?

Neutral is the white wire. Generally black or red are the hots.

I believe Common vs Neutral is the same thing. Although branch circuits are just 120v they still share the neutral(common) with the other side of the panel.

High voltage in a split phase system is generally created when a shared neutral has a poor connection and does not carry the imbalanced load properly. Since the main panel has correct voltage there must be something down stream. Could be in the RV itself. Measure under load as no load will have no issues.

Posted 120v at the panel and 135v in the RV. There must be a point where that changes. Is there a sub-panel?