PWM controller question

Hi jrnymn,

Solar plays well with other charging methods.

1. solar plus alternator--alternator overrides the voltage on the solar, but both contribute amps.

2. solar plus PD 40 amp converter--solar controls the voltage, but both contribute amps.

3. solar plus PD 40 plus alternator--all three contribute.

4. solar plus Magnum inverter/charger--(early days yet) Magnum contributes 100% of the charging, unless I trigger the solar into equalization mode. When I do, I get some small amount of charging from the solar.

5. solar plus Magnum plus alternator. The Magnum does all the charging.

jrnymn7 wrote:
If one had only a small window of opportunity to 'git-er-done', and so was in need of doing some 'speed charging', could the solar controller and a charger be used in parallel, just like what BFL does with a bunch of chargers?

I'm guessing no, as the solar controller would probably not be 'constant current protected'.

All RV 12v system....D.C. power charging can be paralleled
I have WfCo 100 amp converter
505 watts of solar
And when needed I connect a B&D 40 amp charger
It all plays nice and works well together

If one had only a small window of opportunity to 'git-er-done', and so was in need of doing some 'speed charging', could the solar controller and a charger be used in parallel, just like what BFL does with a bunch of chargers?

I'm guessing no, as the solar controller would probably not be 'constant current protected'.

I already bought the panels, cable, connectors, and such, so...

And I'd have to be concerned with weather proofing a 'mex-izmo' attached to a panel, although I had considered going 24v (2 panels in series) to save on cable.

I'm making two sets of cables, about 20' and 30', to make up to 50' total when needed, so I'll have options.

I like those 4/8 circuit breakers snowman recommended. And I would think one could simply screw down some 6ga in there, instead of 4ga. Plus, I can always make my own "pin terminals" by modifying heavy duty ring terminals.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-600W-10-60V-to-12-80V-Boost-Converter-Step-up-Module-Power-Supply-LS4G-/121425964478?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c458d2dbe


http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-12A-DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-5-40V-24v-to-1-2-36V-12v-Laptop-Car-Led-Converter-/271644575171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f3f4745c3


Send FORTY VOLTS from the panels to the stepdown then to the rig's solar controller.

It's silly to deal with cable when hardware store 10 gauge extension cord will work fine. Slap the 600 watt on the back of one panel, the other one the bucker where the power comes into the rig. A 75% reduction in circular mil conductor AWG is no joke. Makes a 60' extension a lot easier. Need more power? Buy another boost buck pair and slap the second booster on another panel and run a second cord. Running 60' jumper cables ain't where it's at...

Forget the boost converter just start out with a 230w 24v panel. Add up to 250 feet of 10 gauge (one way), connect to the bucker for 17v out just prior to the Solar30 and away you go. The Solar30 could handle 2 panels with 2 buckers. Might need BFL13's bucker:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9UUFHC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2ZBKPJ1MXQ6H5&coliid=I3VIQP96ABI9YR

smkettner wrote:
Two panels, no fuses in combiner box.
Fuse near battery always required.

This. No fuse needed between panels and controller in your case. You do need one between controller and batteries.

jrnymn7 wrote:
Thanks, guys.

Any particular type? (I'll probably be running 6ga cable throughout). I'm thinking maybe a stud type circuit breaker, like one of these:

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/disjoncteur-de-type-goujon-de-20-a-6-%E0-24-v/A-p8138836e

And would it be wise to put one on the charger-to-batts circuit as well, while I'm at it?

Well in my MH, there is a cheap breaker like that between the converter and battery. It loses a LOT of voltage. I'm bypassing it and using one of these. I used one on the last MH too:

Blue Sea terminal block fuse

For my solar, I'm installing separate resettable fuses exactly of the type Handy Bob shows on this article.
http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/2014-solar-ideas-batteries-other-things/

Uneeksupply circuit breaker- ebay

When they say you connect 4/8 gauge wire, they don't mean 6. :(
They provide a sleeve for 8 gauge into the 4 gauge fitting. But I'm sure that is easily worked around. It uses a set screw to smash down into the wire. Not the best arrangement, but I'll report back at some point if it is not satisfactory. The beauty is that it can be easily used as a disconnect if need be, without disassembly.

There are variations on that theme on ebay. Search 12v 30A (or whatever) circuit breaker. Some might even accept 6 ga wires without a hack.

Thanks, guys.

Any particular type? (I'll probably be running 6ga cable throughout). I'm thinking maybe a stud type circuit breaker, like one of these:

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/disjoncteur-de-type-goujon-de-20-a-6-%E0-24-v/A-p8138836e

And would it be wise to put one on the charger-to-batts circuit as well, while I'm at it?

Hi jrnymn,

Controller to battery for the fuse and favor being close to the battery.

jrnymn7 wrote:
Well, I pulled the trigger on the 140w panels, and the wiring, connectors, solar30, etc.

But I do have a question concerning fuses. Do I need fuses along the cables from panels to controller, or controller to batteries, or both?

Thanks!