Forum Discussion
Matt_Colie
Jan 21, 2018Explorer II
There are two major issues with this plan. (Where's my BTDT hat?)
First is that most residential reefers use the sides as the cooler. This means that you need that side clearance for it to work at all. It needs to be an inch or more, but it will be in the documentation. You will not need as much ventilation as was required with the gas powered unit, but you will still need to get the heat out of the box.
Second is that you will need to supply it with 120V 60Hz at about ~7amps (+/-) peak for the compressor start. This also takes a lot of battery. This is only essential if you dry camp at all or plan to be on the road more than 4 hours. (if those two are non-issues, then go on to the next paragraph.) The power can be supplied (if you have a 200Ah house bank) with a cheapo inverter. You have to set it up for the peak. I used a 750/1500 MSW from Harbor Fright. The cooling fans in these go out regularly, so I carry a spare onboard. Catch them on sale or use the 20% off. Second year, buy the spare. It will need to be as close to the house bank as it can be and still by out of the weather.
All that said, my house bank is a pair of GC2s and we can dry camp for a day and an half at a July music festive (90~100°) on the house bank before I need to run the generator to recover the bank.
Benefit of this plan. You have to install that huge inverter (not very large item) so you will have lots of 120VAC to charge phones and run a TV.
Some secondary considerations that you should include in your plan:
*These units are not designed to be installed in a vehicle and it may take some creativity to secure the unit adequately for being in a moving vehicle.
*These units do not include an adequate door locking system. You will have to build that into your plan and consider it when shopping.
One final consideration. The cost for us to replace the reefer was ~1200$us. The total cost of the little dorm reefer, the inverter wire and a 200 amp breaker was still less than 200$.
Matt
First is that most residential reefers use the sides as the cooler. This means that you need that side clearance for it to work at all. It needs to be an inch or more, but it will be in the documentation. You will not need as much ventilation as was required with the gas powered unit, but you will still need to get the heat out of the box.
Second is that you will need to supply it with 120V 60Hz at about ~7amps (+/-) peak for the compressor start. This also takes a lot of battery. This is only essential if you dry camp at all or plan to be on the road more than 4 hours. (if those two are non-issues, then go on to the next paragraph.) The power can be supplied (if you have a 200Ah house bank) with a cheapo inverter. You have to set it up for the peak. I used a 750/1500 MSW from Harbor Fright. The cooling fans in these go out regularly, so I carry a spare onboard. Catch them on sale or use the 20% off. Second year, buy the spare. It will need to be as close to the house bank as it can be and still by out of the weather.
All that said, my house bank is a pair of GC2s and we can dry camp for a day and an half at a July music festive (90~100°) on the house bank before I need to run the generator to recover the bank.
Benefit of this plan. You have to install that huge inverter (not very large item) so you will have lots of 120VAC to charge phones and run a TV.
Some secondary considerations that you should include in your plan:
*These units are not designed to be installed in a vehicle and it may take some creativity to secure the unit adequately for being in a moving vehicle.
*These units do not include an adequate door locking system. You will have to build that into your plan and consider it when shopping.
One final consideration. The cost for us to replace the reefer was ~1200$us. The total cost of the little dorm reefer, the inverter wire and a 200 amp breaker was still less than 200$.
Matt
About Technical Issues
Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,210 PostsLatest Activity: Mar 04, 2025