Forum Discussion
Wyatt-S
Aug 06, 2005Explorer
Allpraisebob wrote:
I've never heard the term "oppose" used in power sources. They can either be wired in parallel, in series or shorted. Full load is experienced when the coils are shorted not "opposed". By bridging the red and brown together and moving the red panel wire (which is attached to the white panel wire) to the blue you are bridging the coils in phase, ie, blue-white and red-brown. The reason the red and white do not need to be opened in the sleeve is because I am using them to bridge the blue and white gen leads. The schematic I've drawn would illustrate this better but I don't know how to post it. That's where I was asking for help, not on the re-wiring.
Yikes! If you follow your own instructions, Wyatt-S, you better hope the engine refuses to start under the tremendous load it'll be looking at when you pull on the rope! This is because your modification connects the two windings so that their outputs oppose each other, not add together, which is even more abusive than short-circuiting them!
This is why I put dots on the coils in my schematic, btw; what they indicate is the relative phasing of the winding. That is to say, the dot ends of all windings will be at the same voltage at any given point in time.
Another key thing that you missed is that the RED and WHITE wires are spliced together inside of the rubber sleeve connecting the generator head to the front panel. This splice needs to be broken regardless of where you parallel the coils together.
I've never heard the term "oppose" used in power sources. They can either be wired in parallel, in series or shorted. Full load is experienced when the coils are shorted not "opposed". By bridging the red and brown together and moving the red panel wire (which is attached to the white panel wire) to the blue you are bridging the coils in phase, ie, blue-white and red-brown. The reason the red and white do not need to be opened in the sleeve is because I am using them to bridge the blue and white gen leads. The schematic I've drawn would illustrate this better but I don't know how to post it. That's where I was asking for help, not on the re-wiring.
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