Re-packing bearings

You are much better off to pack the wheel bearing by hand, then to use the Zerk fitting. If you check the "forum" you will find a lot of problems from over greasing the bearings. Grease is not like motor oil that it is used as you drive. My F250 recommends 60K intervals for greasing front bearings. Or about 5 years. I did them at 58K and they were in perfect condition. I have seen some vehicles go 100K before greasing. Om my 5th I try to do the bearing about every 12K, more to inspect brakes then worry about bearings.

(REMOVE THAT FITTING) All the grease you pump into that fitting will spin off into the drums and shoes. When that happens you will pay about $350 per axle just for brake parts. The grease will saturate your shoes and you will replace everything. Take the bearing out and soak it in a solvent. Put your finger in the hole of the bearing. Put a wad of grease in the other hand. Push the bearing down on the grease until the grease comes out the other end and put them back in.

I re-pack bearings every other year with new seals. I pack my bearings with the same grease that is my grease gun. This way I can give the bearing additional grease as needed via the EZ lube axles.

The bearings should have grease. The gap between doesn't do anything and certainly doesn't need grease. Good luck.

Personally, I do my own bearing service and my current TT is on it's 11th camping season.. I do them every other year..

I don't have the zerks to add grease, but the axle is setup to have them.. There is a huge area where you have to pump grease into so it fills the void and I've never felt that was necessary... Just the bearings greased up as I've done to vehicles since I was a kid and my Dad showed me how... :)

Anyway, I think the only good the zerks are for is for boat trailers that get submerged in water and all that grease in the void probably helps keep water out of the actual bearings...

But, I see a lot more boat trailers on the side of the road with a missing wheel than I do TT's, so there you go.. ;)

Good luck!

Mitch

Putting my mind at ease for sure. Should not be a tough job so I will tackle it before I leave to the river this weekend.

Next question, If I want to replace the seal or if for some reason I need a bearing, where do I get these parts? (auto parts store or direct from manufacturer)

Is there a name stamped on the axle somewhere that I would need to reference to get the right size seal, bearing or lock washer?

Thanks for the reference on doing this with your dad. I recall my dad with a wad of grease in his palm re-packing the trailer bearings when I was young. It was good to talk to him after reading this forum to get his advice and make him feel important as always.

TLLOYD wrote:
Putting my mind at ease for sure. Should not be a tough job so I will tackle it before I leave to the river this weekend.

Next question, If I want to replace the seal or if for some reason I need a bearing, where do I get these parts? (auto parts store or direct from manufacturer)

Is there a name stamped on the axle somewhere that I would need to reference to get the right size seal, bearing or lock washer?

Thanks for the reference on doing this with your dad. I recall my dad with a wad of grease in his palm re-packing the trailer bearings when I was young. It was good to talk to him after reading this forum to get his advice and make him feel important as always.

NAPA

I do not do my own grease jobs, so all I know is from the Dexter Manual and my chosen Rv mechanic.

First you need the right grease with the proper viscosity index. Not all greases are equal!

Second, wash the bearings first to inspect them for any damage(spalling), before re-greasing them.

Yes you need to do this by hand with the hubs off, because at the same time interval (12K or 1 year) the grease job needs doing, you need to check your brakes (magnets etc) and this needs the hubs off.

Yes the zerks have no purpose known to man. Seems to be a sales gimmick. Ignore them! (they are for boat trailers as mentioned above) You don't need to grease them more often than Dexter says, and Dexter says when you do need to, you don't use the zerks.

Yes, even if you don't do 12k per year, you still need to check the brakes because the air cooling holes let moisture in that can rust things, trailers that never move are in more trouble than those which get lots of road time) which in turn means take the hubs off, which means grease by hand etc etc. By the book. But--

Many people, including me, "get away" with not doing them every year with low miles per year. You have no way of knowing, so it is fingers crossed every year you go "over" the one year in the manual.

Another biggie, is that by getting mine done at the shop, they found the holes for the bolts in the equalizers were getting worn bigger (as happens even at less than 10k miles on them) and I needed new bolts and equalizers etc, for big bucks. But at least they found it before anything bad happened.

If I were a shade tree mechanic, I would save money for sure, but also I would do all the routines stated in the Dexter manual ON TIME since the money problem with that would not be a factor.

I like and use the E-Z lube method.
I predict, the inexperienced without some mechanical knowledge attempting to repack wheel bearings will cause more harm than good and that will lead to an early bearing failure.

Clicky: Best method for the inexperienced.

Mont G&J wrote:
I like and use the E-Z lube method.
I predict, the inexperienced without some mechanical knowledge attempting to repack wheel bearings will cause more harm than good and that will lead to an early bearing failure.

Clicky: Best method for the inexperienced.

When you are not educated on subjects sometimes you pay the price.