Refrigerator Vent

Compressor fridges don't need fresh air, they need "cooler air". If outside air is cooler, then it will work better, as long as it's not freezing cold outside - too cold ambient will confuse the fridge.

When running on room air only, wherever air is sucked in, it must exit somewhere. This hot air wants to go up. If condenser is on the back and you block it from the sides and leave very little space above and no roof vent, it will work harder. If you leave narrow space behind and either roof vent or ample room above to keep hot air flowing up, it will work better.

This is not an OEM install. Read the manual and use your common sense.

There is more to it.
I did have the dorm-size refrigerator and now have 6 foot tall freezer that don't have outside coils.
Heat exchange goes via side walls and it is crucial to leave space for ventilation there.
It is always good idea to read installation manual.

RV refers are designed to SEAL from the outside access doors/roof vents when secured in the RV refer cabinet. Home residentials ARE NOT designed that way and regardless of condensor coils on a residential on the bottom or back side, they are designed to not have outside fresh air. Just your inside kitchen air. Doug

It depends on the design and installation of the fridge.

Some the condenser coils are on the rear of the fridge.. if yours is like this I would put a fine window screen on the outside vent (on the inside side) and also on the roof vent to prevent insects and other creatures from getting in and seal to the sides of the fridge inside so winds do not blow by.

If the condenser coils are BELOW the fridge (Stupid place to put 'em but some do) Well, you are on your own there.

Residential refers are built for zero clearance install and NO need for backside air. Residentials take air from the lower bottom louver and with the fan circulate the air over and out the bottom front of the refer. I know of NO OEM, that uses a vented door or roof vent. If OEM installed Residential there is NO roof vent and the outside access door is a solid door. That outside solid door is there for backside access for service. FYI, some Jayco 5th wheels have NO outside access doors at all for their residential refers. Doug

It is very common to run cables through the huge fridge vent. Good idea to check the temperature in there, though - particularly in hot climates.

Note to manufacturers - please leave a nice cable way to the roof for my next RV.

It all depends on where the condenser is, and how it is cooled. Coils on the back- I would keep them both partially open (not much, but not sealed)- condenser cooled by fan and vented at bottom- seal them up. Condenser in sides- doesn't matter- it won't work well any way.

With propane fridge the roof vent serves 2 purposes: fumes exhaust and heat venting.

With compressor fridge you still want the heat to escape, but I would seal one of these vents permanently.

It is supposed to exchange the heat with inside room air, but trailer is not a shore home, it can get darn hot in summer and you don't want more heat. For this reason, I would leave at least one vent open in summer. In winter I would seal both vents. If you're on grid and running A/C - seal both vents.

Seal them both off

In the house you let the refrigerator to exchange the heat inside. You don't need vent for electric compressor and I think those vents create big insulation void. They are must for propane burners, but waste of energy with electric.