Hinged refrigerator vent grill?

details of inverter install
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29980442.cfm

work2much wrote:
Interesting. Would you share details of your inverter install? I have considered doing the same to power the campers inverter/charger which would not only run the fridge but also charge the campers battery bank.

I installed inverter in truck. We have an 1100 watt inverter in camper I could have used but this allowed justification (approval) to add one to truck which I've always wanted to do.
Plus unsure about delivering needed DC charge from truck if used to power inverter in camper. Almost always easier to run output from a elec. device than needed input.

Think maybe I misread though. If installing/using a truck inverter, possibly plug camper directly via its shore cord, using its converter/distribution to charge & run fridge? Hmm simply hadn't occurred to me. My AC output from truck is hardwired to truck bed-have added separate AC cord from fridge- that's all it runs. But 'could' plug camper AC cord in to bed receptacle...not sure about the amperage or draw of converter. Or at least potential? My inverter is only 1000 watts-

Likely some one has done that- dont think my setup would work- possibly but..

Thinking about it, with fridge on AC/supplied by truck, factory charge line (& in my case +solar, aux charge line) to batteries the converter likely wouldn't be doing anything but passing AC to fridge. I guess the variable would be if camper batteries need charging the load converter would add? Ive never really seen those numbers. wandering...

As to details of my install- Likey have to split this post up due to forum issues with 'service temporarily unavailable...' and Captcha issues...

NRALIFR wrote:
I meant to respond to this topic when you posted it, but important vacation chores got in the way.

Well at least priority's are correct :), but lets me know I'm not the only one who came to the conclusion these should be hinged.
Those clips are interesting-be a lot simpler to retro fit than the thumb locks.
We were out about a week and found the fridge running on AC amazing. 1st day out we actually had to turn it down. We have aux DC charge line +solar and easily run the fridge on DC and still charge batteries-I attribute the better cooling due to higher wattage of 325watt verse 215watts of the DC element? But ability to run either is a bonus.

I meant to respond to this topic when you posted it, but important vacation chores got in the way. :B

I hinged my fridge vent several years ago, for the same reasons you did. I used two brass hinges, and installed a door holder above it.



I found some clip nuts and thumb screws from a server rack that fit the square holes perfectly. These were oddballs though, most server rack clip nuts are made for much thinner material than this plastic frame. I can’t remember what they were actually for.



Greg, I’ve also got an inverter in my camper that I can run the fridge from while traveling. The cord that the fridge is plugged into is running to the inside of the camper, and I can either plug it into the inverter, or an AC receptacle nearby. I just fished the cord under the fridge cabinet through a void that was there.

But, after installing a DC-DC charger in the camper about a year ago, I found that the DC mode on the fridge would actually work now because the camper battery voltage was being maintained at about 14 volts, which makes the DC heating element work much better.

So, now I have two ways to power the fridge from electric while driving now. I prefer to run it in DC mode, because the 25 amp DC-DC charger can supply more than enough current to run the fridge, and still keep the camper battery charged up. If I run the fridge in AC mode from the inverter, it’s pulling a few more amps than the charger can produce, and the camper battery slowly gets discharged.

:):)

AnEv942 wrote:
Other than reasons listed added Inverter in truck to run fridge.
So if we end up somewhere with AC (or home) easy access but primarily an excuse to fix so not using screwdriver to open...

Interesting. Would you share details of your inverter install? I have considered doing the same to power the campers inverter/charger which would not only run the fridge but also charge the campers battery bank.

Done, works pretty well, cover wont be joining the other odd stuff along the side of the road. Easy access



30" Stainless piano hinge
bag of stainless #6-20 x1/2" self tapping screws (still drilled 7/64" pilot holes)
2 non keyed baggage locks
pack of baggage door catches


Hinge was straight forward, cutting to length, enlarging countersink holes for larger #6 screws (threading into plastic).
Did caulk hinge to plastic but more for surface adhesion.


The thumb latches a bit fiddly, open twist pin hole to ø5/8" (width of flats) then file top & bottom to diameter of threaded body.


Trimmed original twist pin flange, lower lip will act as catch for thumb lock latch arm.




Used included offset arm but cut/shortened.

Ahh. Ingenious setup. Nice job!

Other than reasons listed added Inverter in truck to run fridge.
So if we end up somewhere with AC (or home) easy access but primarily an excuse to fix so not using screwdriver to open...

What's the need to open the cover frequently?
Other than trying to adjust the shield around the flame, I've not opened it in 6 years.

Thanks, looked, the only metal covers I could find still available had the larger radius corners which wouldn't cover existing cutout(dometic 3109350.011) All other links, square corner that would work, led to 404 or no longer available? Further searching might find one but not sure Id use since replacement if needed appears may be a problem, Cost wise about the same as modifying ours.

Ours is on slide and lower cover cant lay flat when swung down, (hits trim) which would be my preference but sooner or later would break.

Just ordered an SST continuous hinge, couple of thumb locks and a catch-see what I can cobble together.