Refrigerator(RM 2652 or 2852) Not Cooling Properly Again

The flame looks like a nice large blue flame with a very small flicker of yellow every now and then. It seems like it's working the way it should. I'm going to leave it like that for a couple hours(thermistor unplugged and on propane for a few hours and see if I notice any difference. If not, does that eliminate the board as the problem? Or could it still be? If like to eliminate everything before I have to pay someone to replace the entire cooling unit.

If not I'd like to try plugging the heating element directly into 120v as that would cut the board out completely. Thanks again for trying to help us out. I should be a **** expert on this refrigerator after all the time I've spent on it the past few months, I'm still not though, lol.

I've switched back and forth and didn't notice much difference but again I think I probably should try it for longer. I've had it on AC for the past two or three weeks since we arrived at a park. I guess I'll put it on propane for now although in the past it would get cooler on ac then propane. It would actually get too cold on ac, up to a couple days ago, and I actually had to adjust the temperature up from when it was running on propane after we finished boondocking and arrived at the park for her assignment.

I'd still like more info on how to unplug heater element leads from lower circuit board and plug them directly into 120V AC outlet. I see how I could unplug them but I'm not sure about how to directly plug them into an outlet.

Is it on AC or propane? If AC switch to propane and see if it cools down. If so the heating coil may not be completely functional, although they usually fail completely open.

If on propane, switch to AC, If it then works, I'd suspect there may be some minor debris in the orifice or flame path. Even a tiny bit of spider web, dust, rust etc. will reduce flow enough that you won't get full heat. But the flame may look ok. But when cleaned out and working properly you may see that the flame is indeed larger.

Try switching to propane manually.
It could be the 120 volt relay on the circuit board has or is failing.
By switching to 120 volt AC is taken out of the equation.

follow old biscuit,s advice ,he knows his frig,s . I did and he fixed mine.

I tried unplugging the thermistor early this morning but only for about maybe two hours and didn't notice any difference so I plugged it back in but I've done that again and will let it go for longer this time.

Unplugging the heater element leads sounds like something I would like to try from your description. It sounds like it could eliminate the board being bad. Unfortunately I don't quite understand what you mean. How would I go about plugging them into a 120 volt outlet directly? Could you give me some more detail as that seems like it would be a definitive test if the cooling unit is shot or not.

I really don't want to replace the entire cooling unit if I don't have to, the last time I had trouble with the fridge I was told by multiple people that it was the cooling unit and it just ended up being the thermistor. The only thing I can think of is perhaps the board but the test you mentioned would allow me to rule that out. Thanks.

If cooling unit had a leak it would not chase ambient air temps (warm up/cool down as temps change) it would quit cooling

Unplugging thermistor SHOULD cause fridge to run continuously and result in freezer temps 0*F or lower and food compartment temps 38*F or colder......unplug at lower board P2 connector (left side) and run fridge overnight measuring temps with bulb thermometer in glass of water

Other test .......unplug heater element leads from lower circuit board and plug them directly into 120V AC outlet...run fridge at least 12 hrs
This will bypass all controls and test cooling units ability to cool.


Otherwise cooling unit is slowly dying due to obstructions/blockages inside the cooling unit
A refer that chases the out-side temperature is improperly vented or has a weak cooling unit

We live on it and it's been running fine for a month since we returned from visiting our family back home. In fact it was too cold just a few days ago(ah, the good old days...) Yes we're level and I always level it each time we park (who want to live at an angle? Lol.

The batteries could be replaced but we're parked in Phoenix right now(my wife has a 13 week contract she started two weeks ago or so). So in addition to the 200w solar panels I also have the converter plugged in, so I don't see the batteries as the problem(they still would work for a day or two as we boondocked our way down here just not as long as they used to. No sign of yellowish stain or the smell of ammonia, which my wife would have noticed immediately. I checked the wires and they all seem to be well connected.

I've ordered a new control board and payed for next day shipping and so am planning on trying to replace it tomorrow to see if that works. Looking for more ideas before it arrives though, lol. I felt the chimney and cooling fins and it's certainly still very hot and I've got the fan in the rear running constantly(it's installed in a slide so no roof vent).

I suppose if the control board or something else doesn't correct it soon, I'll have to find someone to install a new cooling unit.... I really would like to avoid that.

Thanks for the help. I'll go ahead and take any recommendations for a mobile tech in Phoenix if anyone has someone they like around here(we're technically in Mesa). Thanks again.

#1 did you turn the frig on 24hrs before you loaded it? siting level? good 12v battery?

Open the access panel, take a flash light and look closely at the cooling unit and coils. Any signs of a yellowish stain? Check for loose wires at all connections. I would first suspect the cooling unit is toast.
I assume your level and have not knowingly been unlevel when the refer is on?