Replace old TV antenna

edit..

MrWizard wrote:
Lube it good from up top with some silicone
Now that you broke it free, it will probably work
Where did you put the spring when you installed the new crank handle
When reassembling the wheel goes first then the spring then the crank handle
Also advisable to crank it all the way up, before trying to turn it
If only part way up, you have the weight of the antenna using the lifting arms as pry bars putting strain against the shaft it should be turning on
Acts like a brake

I haven't actually installed the new crank handle, just looked on Amazon for the price. Now after further reading seems like I need the crank handle AND the directional handle (ring)?

Lube it good from up top with some silicone
Now that you broke it free, it will probably work
Where did you put the spring when you installed the new crank handle
When reassembling the wheel goes first then the spring then the crank handle
Also advisable to crank it all the way up, before trying to turn it
If only part way up, you have the weight of the antenna using the lifting arms as pry bars putting strain against the shaft it should be turning on
Acts like a brake

OP here. After posting the question I had some other issues that came up am only just now catching up here on RV.net. Turns out I DO have the old style plate with the little power switch which I never even noticed. I ran setup after turning on that switch and indeed I did get channels, 34, though many did not come in well. I raised the antenna with the crank, and the handle broke off. No big deal, $6 on Amazon, but I couldn't seem to turn the antenna from the inside. It's obvious you pull down the ring around the handle and then turn it, but it wouldn't turn. I got out the ladder and was able to turn iit up top. Can't see any reason why it wouldn't turn from the inside once it was raised beyond the guard. Any ideas?

Winegard made batwing style antennas without an amplifier and the OP could not find a switch. If he does have a non-amplified antenna, we are only confusing him with many of the posts.

First off, your Batwing is better than any set of rabbit ears. A 1996 antenna isn't all that old.

So start at the beginning, after connecting the antenna coax to the TV, turn on the power switch for the board in the Batwing head, raise and aim the antenna toward the towers, antenna is now ready for the TV. If you do not have a power switch panel, I'd suggest buying a new head and panel.

Turn on the TV and run setup, make sure that you have the INPUT set for antenna, now you will need to run a search for the available stations.

Many new TVs have SSM's(Signal Strength Meter) built in, if yours does, use that to obtain the strongest signal. If not, you just have to turn the antenna to the best direction you can find.

When the channel search is done you should have several stations. If the channel search does not turn up any channels, start with the trouble shooting ideas all ready offered. I would start with a long cable and connect it directly to the antenna and the TV bypassing the OEM wiring in your trailer.

If you truly do not have a panel with a power switch panel for the antenna, I would consider up grading to a new antenna system. If you do have the power up switch and the jump around the trailer coax doesn't help, I'd guess you do need a new head.

In addition to the Sensar Pro shown above there are two other things (or 3) I would check, Some of this is from experience.

The Wingman add on for the Batwing turns it into the BEST TV antenna marketed for RVs bar none. About 30-40 dollars and you can install it yourself, a pair of pliers is optional as the only tool needed.

THe Sensar Pro (ALready described by others)

The coax Roof to antenna. #1 problem on "old" RV's is this coax,. it is exposed to sun and weather and it goes bad... NOTE: there is a connector either at the roof. or in the roof.

From Experience.... that connector.'

Blown fuses.

FInally a comment.

THe batwing is directional (Basic batwing is a figure 8 pattern) Fairly narrow beam.. IF you are "Surrounded by TV stations" Rabbit ears (Omni-directional, means they receive from any angle) work better.

There are additional possible issues like bad wires and switrches but in independent lab tests the Batwing beat all competition .

darsben1 wrote:
They both receive Digital signals just fine if I remember to turn on the amplifier.

The Winegard wall plate illustrated above is NOT an amplifier, is not a booster as so many seem to claim, has no ability to amplify the signal coming from the antenna head. :R Pushing the front panel switch merely routes 12 vdc to the head where the amplifier in a Sensar III / Sensar IV is located. When this switch is turned off it disconnects this power from the head and routes the cable feed to the unit instead of the antenna feed. If you want a wall plate that actually does amplify the antenna head feed then you want a Winegard SensarPro which offers +/- 10 db signal gain / attenuation.

The FCC isn't reclaiming anything in VHF because nobody wants it except TV, and we're repopulating it all over the country again. VHF is useless for cellular technologies for a number of reasons. As far as frequency selective antennas, the "older" Batwings do have a single UHF element internally, but the Wingman addition or new Sensor antennas make a serious difference in UHF performance. They are not miracle workers but a properly functioning Batwing will outperform any other RV antenna

WNYBob wrote:
The older bat wing antennas are usually VHF tuned, and most digital stations are UHF.

I am not sure abut the first half of your statement, but the second half is correct. While the old VHF frequencies can be used for the now standard digital ATSC, most station are now broadcasting on channel is the UHF band (14-50).

The channel number you see on your TV screen has no longer reflects the actual frequency the signal is broadcast on.

There has been discussion about the FCC "reclaiming" all VHF frequencies for other uses.