Replacing microwave, model no longer made

Last weekend, our microwave stopped heating. It is a 10 year old Samsung 1cuft no longer produced. I took it into a repair shop on Monday for a free estimate, where it sat until yesterday. I went into the shop and the tech said they usually aren't worth the cost of fixing. So I took it home. Who knows when he would finally get to it.
In the mean time, I ordered a new slightly smaller .9cuft that would fit into the existing microwave cabinet just in case it was not repairable. This is where it gets complicated. My Winnebago Minnie has the kitchen against the back wall. The microwave cabinet is at an angle and faces forward. So the microwave has to be secured well to prevent a panic stop from ripping it out of the cabinet. The previous microwave utilizes 2 braces attached to the back wall and secured to the facia of the cabinet. The trim cover is screwed into the braces at the facia. A large "L" shaped bracket is attached to the wall and to the cabinet facia for the top trim piece to attach to. Of course the new microwave trim grill has holes that nowhere match up to the existing holes. Plus the new trim grill doesn't even go down low enough to cover the exist holes. The trim grill itself came with 4 small screws to attach the trim grill to the cabinet facia. These screws would never hold the microwave securely. I thought about using a hard wood like oak and glueing blocks where the new trim grill screws can attach in back of the facia. I would of course use longer screws to attach the trim grill to the facia and oak blocks behind. But now I wonder if that would hold up in a panic stop ripping the microwave off along with the facia.
The microwave cabinet is above the stovetop and next to another cabinet. Access to the back of the microwave when install is very limited. There is a 2" hole for the microwave's power cord to pass thru. I thought about using a cable or something attaching it to the back of the microwave and the brace attached the the wall. But I have no access.
Suggestions?

14 Replies

SFVdave
Explorer
Nov 02, 2013
RV Microwaves come in 2x2 types (Several different models and featurs in one of those 2 but they all fall under the umbrella)

The first 2 is "Standard House Microwaves, Bearing the manufacturer's name" IE: Samsung, GE, Panasonic, Tappin, LG
v/s
Standard House Models bearing an alternate name (My Dometic, is really a LG (Lousy GOODS) or rather it was till I modified it so it will work properly, now it's a Modified LG and works well, (one GE part, one engineering change).

This is the "2" that come in assorted models, sizes and features (like conveciton/microwave, Half-time and so on).

The second 2 is

Modified for RV use v/s Not modified.

On my LG (Which was modified for RV use) The hot air exhaust (yes Microwaves have that) was through the top. This would have quickly totted the cabinet in which it's mounted, So they added some sheet metal to duct it out the front, and of course put a front "panel" around it (Collar?)

The vintage Tappin I had at home would not have needed this mod as it exhausted front to start with.

(I really liked that Tappin).

Some RV makers vent the cabinet instead of modifying the Microwave.

So, what should you do?

Get one that fits, Forget the make and model (Avoid Lousy Goods) but get one that fits.

Find out where it spits out hot, moisture laden, air and if needed pipe it to a safe area.

I did note in the manual that it wants me to cut a 3"x7" opening on top of the cabinet. This is probably what you are talking about for venting the heat. There is no way to do that as the ceiling is there. To the side is the exterior wall and the otherside is a cabinet. The microwave cabinet has a 2" hole in it already for the power cord to pass thru the adjoining wall into a cabinet and plugs into the 110v recepticle. I wonder if that is enough? I could cut another hole in the adjoing cabinet wall and keep the next door cabinet open while using the microwave.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Nov 02, 2013
RV Microwaves come in 2x2 types (Several different models and featurs in one of those 2 but they all fall under the umbrella)

The first 2 is "Standard House Microwaves, Bearing the manufacturer's name" IE: Samsung, GE, Panasonic, Tappin, LG
v/s
Standard House Models bearing an alternate name (My Dometic, is really a LG (Lousy GOODS) or rather it was till I modified it so it will work properly, now it's a Modified LG and works well, (one GE part, one engineering change).

This is the "2" that come in assorted models, sizes and features (like conveciton/microwave, Half-time and so on).

The second 2 is

Modified for RV use v/s Not modified.

On my LG (Which was modified for RV use) The hot air exhaust (yes Microwaves have that) was through the top. This would have quickly totted the cabinet in which it's mounted, So they added some sheet metal to duct it out the front, and of course put a front "panel" around it (Collar?)

The vintage Tappin I had at home would not have needed this mod as it exhausted front to start with.

(I really liked that Tappin).

Some RV makers vent the cabinet instead of modifying the Microwave.

So, what should you do?

Get one that fits, Forget the make and model (Avoid Lousy Goods) but get one that fits.

Find out where it spits out hot, moisture laden, air and if needed pipe it to a safe area.
SFVdave
Explorer
Nov 02, 2013
My microwave has a kit installed when installing in a cabnet. One of the vents in the back is routed up, over and out the top of the microwave. Some microwaves need to be free standing because some vent on the side and/or back of the unit.
Proper ventilation! or you might burn it up!

Both my old and new microwaves are for RV's and have a metal vent on the bottom of the microwave for fresh air intake thru the bottom grill and a larger metal exhaust vent on top.

I am taking the old microwave to the Recycling Center tomorrow. If it was the magnetron, they are hard to find for this model and can be costly. Thereby, they are not worth the cost to fix.
mchero
Explorer
Nov 02, 2013
My microwave has a kit installed when installing in a cabnet. One of the vents in the back is routed up, over and out the top of the microwave. Some microwaves need to be free standing because some vent on the side and/or back of the unit.
Proper ventilation! or you might burn it up!
mobilefleet
Explorer
Nov 01, 2013
if your microwave still turns the turntable and the timer operates, but it won't heat food, it's most likely a bad magnetron which is an easy fix. I replaced our home one recently, we have a stainless steel unit that was about $350 or so. I paid $50 for a new magnetron off amazon and installed it, took me maybe 20 minutes to do by removing back cover and a few screws that hold the magnetron in place. You could also find a similar size microwave on craigslist and install it for prob $50 or less too. good luck
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Nov 01, 2013
Nice work.
SFVdave
Explorer
Nov 01, 2013
Got the new microwave installed and secured. I drilled 2 holes in the trim grill to match the holes on the old top trim. So that is real secure utilizing the existing "L" bracket coming down from the ceiling and secured to the facia. The four side screws now go thru the facia which is 3/4" particle board into 3/4" oak strips running the entire side. These side strips are screwed into the facia and into the walls. I pulled the power cord taught and nailed on a coax holder used to secure antenna coax to the wall. So this microwave isn't going anywhere. Oh, I shouldn't say that. It's going a great many places throughout the USA, but staying in the cabinet.
SFVdave
Explorer
Nov 01, 2013
thanks, some good ideas here.
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Nov 01, 2013
midnightsadie wrote:
if you can get to the bottom? unscrew the rubber feet and install a longer screw.

x2
Pangaea_Ron
Explorer
Nov 01, 2013
I was actually able to have my MW repaired, which is very unusual now. There were 3-4 thermal/power fuses that needed to be replaced. Mine was built-in with range hood and convection functions. It took nearly 45 minutes to remove, and about the same to re-install.

Could you mount a metal J-molding on the wall behind, and an inverted J-molding on the MW that would interlock, and/or mount pipe end caps on the bottom of the cabinet that the rubber feet could fit into. My MW also had sheet metal screws through the top of the cabinet above into the metal case of the MW. Perhaps you could also do the same from the sides? Be careful where you drill.

Common wisdom in an accident is to lift your feet up when the accident happens, and then duck when the MW comes forward. Timing is everything.