Running fridge on propane question

SkiSmuggs wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
It's interesting that while there is a small drain when the fridge is switched to propane, there is a greater draw when the fridge is left on AUTO while running off propane. My EU2000 generator started tripping the overload circuit breaker when I turned the microwave on and I would not figure out why until I learned on this forum not to leave the fridge set to Auto when using propane. I switched it over to "gas" and no more Honda breaker-tripping. So my take away is it draws much more DC power in the Auto mode.

As BFL13 pointed out, it switches to 120V when you run the genny, so the breaker tripping was the compressor cycling on. If you don't want that, switch to the gas setting.
I seem to remember a post where someone said the fridge is more effective on propane than on 120.

Both of you are correct, I did not explain properly.

DrewE wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

SkiSmuggs wrote:
As BFL13 pointed out, it switches to 120V when you run the genny, so the breaker tripping was the compressor cycling on. If you don't want that, switch to the gas setting.
I seem to remember a post where someone said the fridge is more effective on propane than on 120.

Yes, every once and awhile someone states that RV refers run better on LP. NONSENSE. They will run just as well on LP as 120. The BTU output of 120 and LP is the same. AS LONG AS YOUR 120 VOLTAGE IS OVER 110 volts. If you have a drop in line voltage below 110, then yes, the refer will not run as well on 120. If you are in low voltage conditions, then switch to LP until the line voltage goes over 110 and stays above 110. Doug

The Dometic 2652, for one example, has a 325 watt element (which is equiavalent to 1109 btu/hr), and a 1500 btu/hr burner. I don't think this model is unique in that regard; it's not uncommon for the burner to be more powerful than the 120V electric element. If there's a 12V element, it's usually less powerful than either the 120V element or the propane burner.

I have no idea if the figures you state are correct. Don't care. BUT, FYI, the LP flame while it may be 1500 btu/hr, there MUST be a spiral BAFFLE in the flue tube to disperse that HEAT from the flame to correctly heat the ammonia. Since the 120 element is attached securely against the SIDE of the burner tube, the BTU's are transmitted more evenly than the flame. So while I may have stated the BTU's are "the same", I should have stated that they are equivalent in heat output to heating and boiling the ammonia. 12 volt heat elements are NEVER to cool a RV absorbsion refer, but to KEEP the existing temp while in transit. Doug

dougrainer wrote:

SkiSmuggs wrote:
As BFL13 pointed out, it switches to 120V when you run the genny, so the breaker tripping was the compressor cycling on. If you don't want that, switch to the gas setting.
I seem to remember a post where someone said the fridge is more effective on propane than on 120.

Yes, every once and awhile someone states that RV refers run better on LP. NONSENSE. They will run just as well on LP as 120. The BTU output of 120 and LP is the same. AS LONG AS YOUR 120 VOLTAGE IS OVER 110 volts. If you have a drop in line voltage below 110, then yes, the refer will not run as well on 120. If you are in low voltage conditions, then switch to LP until the line voltage goes over 110 and stays above 110. Doug

The Dometic 2652, for one example, has a 325 watt element (which is equiavalent to 1109 btu/hr), and a 1500 btu/hr burner. I don't think this model is unique in that regard; it's not uncommon for the burner to be more powerful than the 120V electric element. If there's a 12V element, it's usually less powerful than either the 120V element or the propane burner.

Thanks for the clarifications, guys!

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Ski,

Absorption fridges do not have a compressor. They do draw about 325 watts.

SkiSmuggs wrote:
As BFL13 pointed out, it switches to 120V when you run the genny, so the breaker tripping was the compressor cycling on. If you don't want that, switch to the gas setting.

325 watts = about 2.6 to 2.7 amps AC current. Doug

SkiSmuggs wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
It's interesting that while there is a small drain when the fridge is switched to propane, there is a greater draw when the fridge is left on AUTO while running off propane. My EU2000 generator started tripping the overload circuit breaker when I turned the microwave on and I would not figure out why until I learned on this forum not to leave the fridge set to Auto when using propane. I switched it over to "gas" and no more Honda breaker-tripping. So my take away is it draws much more DC power in the Auto mode.

As BFL13 pointed out, it switches to 120V when you run the genny, so the breaker tripping was the compressor cycling on. If you don't want that, switch to the gas setting.
I seem to remember a post where someone said the fridge is more effective on propane than on 120.

Yes, every once and awhile someone states that RV refers run better on LP. NONSENSE. They will run just as well on LP as 120. The BTU output of 120 and LP is the same. AS LONG AS YOUR 120 VOLTAGE IS OVER 110 volts. If you have a drop in line voltage below 110, then yes, the refer will not run as well on 120. If you are in low voltage conditions, then switch to LP until the line voltage goes over 110 and stays above 110. Doug

Hi Ski,

Absorption fridges do not have a compressor. They do draw about 325 watts.

SkiSmuggs wrote:
As BFL13 pointed out, it switches to 120V when you run the genny, so the breaker tripping was the compressor cycling on. If you don't want that, switch to the gas setting.

Ron3rd wrote:
It's interesting that while there is a small drain when the fridge is switched to propane, there is a greater draw when the fridge is left on AUTO while running off propane. My EU2000 generator started tripping the overload circuit breaker when I turned the microwave on and I would not figure out why until I learned on this forum not to leave the fridge set to Auto when using propane. I switched it over to "gas" and no more Honda breaker-tripping. So my take away is it draws much more DC power in the Auto mode.

As BFL13 pointed out, it switches to 120V when you run the genny, so the breaker tripping was the compressor cycling on. If you don't want that, switch to the gas setting.
I seem to remember a post where someone said the fridge is more effective on propane than on 120.

Hi,

The gas valve in mine draws 1 amp when it is running the burner. Duty cycle appears to be 2:3.

Ron3rd wrote:
It's interesting that while there is a small drain when the fridge is switched to propane, there is a greater draw when the fridge is left on AUTO while running off propane. My EU2000 generator started tripping the overload circuit breaker when I turned the microwave on and I would not figure out why until I learned on this forum not to leave the fridge set to Auto when using propane. I switched it over to "gas" and no more Honda breaker-tripping. So my take away is it draws much more DC power in the Auto mode.

In "auto" it will go to 120v whenever present, such as when on the generator. It will still need a tiny bit of 12v for the controls