RV Hot Water Heater

DO the valve handles move so that they POINT inward towards the water heater tank?


Cold in thru bottom and hot out thru top

ktchase4 wrote:
I turned the hot water valve 90 degrees and had the hot water side of the faucet on. The water started sputtering and eventually stopped.

Both valves have to be set correctly for cold water to enter the WH tank and hot water to exit.

beemerphile1 wrote:

BB_TX wrote:
Those are standard 3 way valves. The direction of the handle indicates the direction of water flow. Shown in position to bypass water heater. Turn both 90 degrees to flow thru water heater.

I agree with this, I would turn each handle 90 degrees.

That was one test I did before I gave up originally. I turned the hot water valve 90 degrees and had the hot water side of the faucet on. The water started sputtering and eventually stopped.

BB_TX wrote:
Those are standard 3 way valves. The direction of the handle indicates the direction of water flow. Shown in position to bypass water heater. Turn both 90 degrees to flow thru water heater.

I agree with this, I would turn each handle 90 degrees.

Thanks everyone for your responses so far. I'm going to run some additional tests with your information and see what happens.

Those are standard 3 way valves. The direction of the handle indicates the direction of water flow. Shown in position to bypass water heater. Turn both 90 degrees to flow thru water heater.

When winterizing the valve on the blue/cold water line would be in a position to block cold water from going into the hot water tank and set up to bypassed the water so that it goes through the white hose. The valve on the red hose would also be in a position to block water in the white hose from going into the hot water tank but rather continue on through the system via the red house.

I have found that usually the handles on these values is set up so that the handle is in line with the hose where the water is intended to flow. The current positions appear to be how the valves would be positioned for winterizing, blocking water from going into the hot water tank but I'm not 100% sure of that so a test would be required to be sure of that.

SoundGuy wrote:
It would seem both valves are in the bypass position, as indicated by the levers being in line with the bypass hose. Turn each one 90 degrees so cold water is directed into the tank and hot water can exit.

They may need to turn 180 degrees.

Here is a systematic approach.

Pressurize the water system. Open a hot water faucet. If water does not flow, and you don't hear air being purged from the system, turn ONE of those valves. Either one. If water flows from the faucet, go to the next step. If air is being purged from the system, wait until you get water flow, then go on to the next step. With the water system still pressurized, go to the outside of the water heater and open the pop-off valve momentarily. If water does not gush out, turn those valves the other way. Both of them.

Pretty sure that there is a pressure relief device on the other end of the water tank. You can open that to verify there's water in the tank, won't hurt anything, water should belch out of it when your RV is connected to shore water or the pump is turned on. Not much, but enough to show you the tank is full. Turn off the water heater the night before so it'll not scald any bystanders.

And I agree with the others that those valves you show in the picture should both be turned 90*. And if you have an electric element, it's likely damaged if you turned it on with the tank empty. Often they melt before they open circuit. There might be a safety device to protect it though so check for that too.

ktchase4 wrote:
Just bought a new RV. We've had one before and hardly had any issues. One issue I'm having with the new RV is getting hot water. I've attached a picture of the setup for the hot water tank.

It would seem both valves are in the bypass position, as indicated by the levers being in line with the bypass hose. Turn each one 90 degrees so cold water is directed into the tank and hot water can exit. Unfortunately you may have damaged the water heater by running it without water in it, particularly if it has an electric heating element and you switched it to the on mode during your tests.