Sewer connection rework project.

If there is no alternative than to replace the 3 x 1/2 x 3 tee, 3 inch waste valve end and grey water adapters you might try cutting the 3 inch 45 degree elbow at the half way point first making it a 22.5 degree elbow and see if a 3 inch 22.5 degree female x female or female x male abs elbow can be glued onto the remaining portion of the 45 degree elbow. Then extend the 3 inch as needed.

Another option is if you already have enough ground clearance, remove the 3 inch cap. Cut off or break off the tabs on the sides of the male bayonet fitting that allows the cap to twist on turning that fitting into a straight adapter. Then glue on a 22.5 degree elbow and then extend the 3 inch pipe as needed.

I did something similar by gluing the below fittings together for my home dump station. I removed the bayonet tabs from the male threaded fitting and then glued the 2 fittings together.
3 inch Male pipe thd x male bayonet fitting
3 inch female glued x male bayonet adapter

I needed a longer 3 inch male pipe thd x male bayonet fitting than the original. My clean out was too deep in the ground for the original. I left these fittings in place and use a female bayonet cap to seal it in lieu of the original threaded plug. I added a cover over the dump station / clean out when done.

Dakota98 wrote:

Matt_Colie wrote:
Muddy,

Now, play mix and match with the known needed parts and make the requisite three trips to the store to return some and buy the parts you actually need and glue is all together.


Matt

Three trips seem to be the magic number for many projects, although when it comes to plumbing it often turns into more. Nothing more frustrating than having to stop & go back to the store a few more times turning a two hour project into 4-5 hours. I have revised my plan of attach for plumbing projects. I now buy most every conceivable part that would ever be needed for my project & simply make the second trip to the store to "return" what wasn't used. :B

I usually buy a ton of stuff as well but still seem to have to make a couple trips then the return stuff trip. They sell most the stuff at the place I store my rig although they want a few more $ then the local hardware supply. I will purchase what I think I need from the hardware store and hopefully pick up an item or two I may need from the storage yard repair shop.

Bending down is no problem I just hate getting on my knees when the dump station is wet because I am never sure why its wet. Its just a poor design from the factory, theres no reason they stopped short and didn't bring the end out another couple feet.

Matt_Colie wrote:
Muddy,

Now, play mix and match with the known needed parts and make the requisite three trips to the store to return some and buy the parts you actually need and glue is all together.


Matt

Three trips seem to be the magic number for many projects, although when it comes to plumbing it often turns into more. Nothing more frustrating than having to stop & go back to the store a few more times turning a two hour project into 4-5 hours. I have revised my plan of attach for plumbing projects. I now buy most every conceivable part that would ever be needed for my project & simply make the second trip to the store to "return" what wasn't used. :B

Muddy,

Your problem is not really all that tough. It is largely the result of inconsiderate assembly.

What you need to do first is get:
A replacement Valterra flange, another T, another offset reducer and a can of ABS (not universal) cement.
Clean the tanks well and undo the hose clamps at both ends, then remove the black tank dump valve for reuse and screw it to the replacement flange.
Now, play mix and match with the known needed parts and make the requisite three trips to the store to return some and buy the parts you actually need and glue is all together.
I see this as a Saturday afternoon job with a cost of less that 50$ and now the bayonet flange will be at the outer frame rail. You still have to bent down, but not crawl under.

Matt

Job would be easy if I could turn the existing elbow to point out or replace it with a 90 degree elbow but from looking at how it's put together it looks like I will have to take it apart at the hose clamps and replace most of the fittings. Guess its a good time to inspect the quality of the gate valves and replace if needed. The gray tank side will come apart before the gate valve but on the black side its after the gate valve, guess I better make sure the black tank is cleaned and well drained.

I've taken solvent welded fittings apart a few times. Always only saved one of the 2 fittings, the female one. I've never tried to save the male fitting, but I believe I could.
Don't believe both pieces could be saved.

Dusty

westend wrote:

Dakota98 wrote:
I wonder if a heat gun on a low setting would be enough to loosen the glue without damaging it & remove the existing hook-up and extending it as needed ?

Highly unlikely. The waste pipe is ABS and the glue used to attach pipes and fittings is a solvent welding adhesive. The glue actually melts the pipe and fitting material surfaces. When cured, the whole is well stuck together.

Forgot about that, you're right, once that stuff is applied it welds to the components.

Dakota98 wrote:
I wonder if a heat gun on a low setting would be enough to loosen the glue without damaging it & remove the existing hook-up and extending it as needed ?

Highly unlikely. The waste pipe is ABS and the glue used to attach pipes and fittings is a solvent welding adhesive. The glue actually melts the pipe and fitting material surfaces. When cured, the whole is well stuck together.

I wonder if a heat gun on a low setting would be enough to loosen the glue without damaging it & remove the existing hook-up and extending it as needed ?

While you are changing, Consider changing to the Waste Master System . My wife couldn't twist the normal connection well enough and it was sometimes hard for my arthritic hands. We like the cam lock system so well, I've now changed the garden hose ones to cam locks also. .