Skipping popping and no power

Trashwagon wrote:
Well it seems that, and they are experienced with these modular engines, they can't find anything wrong. They have been driving it each day and it runs fine. No codes show for anything. guess I got a "gremlin" hiding in there, eh?....... So have "roadside" on the insurance policy and thinking of gettin Good Sam Roadside too.

Yep, that IS one of the signs of a bad COP..

They tend to be rather intermittent.. until they finally fail..

IT WILL BE BACK (think of the Terminator voice)..

However.. IF you have never changed the plugs (and never pulled the COPs) the Rubber BOOTs that fit under the COPS could be going bad and cracking.. This would allow some moisture in the air to cause intermittent misfires..

Typically when you replace a COP you replace the boot..

As I mentioned before COPS do not always set a check engine light, in fact I have never had a bad COP set any lights even though the engine severely lost power and was skipping badly..

What you do want to check though is for PENDING CODES.. Those are codes which the engine computer will record if anything goes out of range.. In your case the skipping if it reoccurs a few times and long enough the engine computer should record a pending code for misfires or multiple miss fires.. When it does that you will get a bank 1 or bank 2 misfire code.. That helps you to determine what side..

I would highly recommend you get a code reader, you can get a $100 reader from Harbor Freight (You can use a 20%off coupon and get it for about $80) which can read engine codes..

My reader has saved me thousands of dollars in repairs over the last several years.. Just recently had one of the Oxy upstream (front) sensors go bad.. Replaced the bad one for $30 from Autozone.. Fixed the light.. I decide to change the other front one since it would be not long before it fails..

Total fix $60 for sensors and about an hr worth of my labor.. That would have cost me $90 per sensor at a Ford dealer PLUS a diagnostic fee of $125 (for their code reader hookup) PLUS at least 4hrs min at $120 per hr.. They would have only changed one and waited until they could get me again for the next one too boot.

So the dealer would have charged me somewhere around $695..

Well it seems that, and they are experienced with these modular engines, they can't find anything wrong. They have been driving it each day and it runs fine. No codes show for anything. guess I got a "gremlin" hiding in there, eh?....... So have "roadside" on the insurance policy and thinking of gettin Good Sam Roadside too.

Trashwagon wrote:
My mechanic has a towing service and all his wreckers and rollbacks have tritons. He knows about them...... He says since the coach is 15 years old, just replace them all...... they are like injectors, replace one and next week another takes a ****. oh well bite the bullet.

Make darn sure your mechanic gets FORD MOTORCRAFT COPs..

I can tell you from personal experience that the cheaper generic brands do not last.. Had one generic COP fail within 6 months of installation. From the reviews on Amazon, my experience is pretty much typical of the generic COPS..

There IS a reason the Ford MOTORCRAFT COPs cost a lot.. They are built better..

My mechanic has a towing service and all his wreckers and rollbacks have tritons. He knows about them...... He says since the coach is 15 years old, just replace them all...... they are like injectors, replace one and next week another takes a ****. oh well bite the bullet.

x2 on the COP

I had same problem with a Triton V8 (no power, spitting, popping etc). Turned out it was a COP.

BTW: no dash lights but previous owner( nickname Tinker) took the dash guage cluster out to clean out spilled glass of tea and screwed all the gauges up. Took it to a Newmar dealer and he wouldn't touch the gauge cluster to try to correct the gauge reading.

westend wrote:
WEre you able to drive the vehicle slowly? I'm pretty sure all Ford modular V8's have a limp mode. Did you have any dash indicator lights illuminate?
Most storage related problems are fuel related, IME.

yep it was a good "limper" limped up the hill and got'er in the driveway........ just seems that everything is against us getting on the road...... Restarted it after cooldown and seems to be running better, but not right.

Trashwagon wrote:
Took the coach out today to scale it. 25 miles to truck stop and back. Ran like a top till I stopped at a light about 1/1 mile from the house. Pulled out and had no power ad was spitting and popping. seemed like it was stuck in high gear but no. runs and idles ok at low rpm but at full throttle it pops through exhaust...... Triton V-10 any suggestions as I'm illiterate when it comes to the big gassers with all the tech on them.

Most likely a bad COP (Coil over plug)..

The problem is you have 10 of them and you will need one known good one to swap out one at a time to find the bad on.

You could try a code reader to see if it has any pending misfire codes which might help narrow down to one side (bad COPs often do not set the check engine light but may be detected as a misfire or multiple misfire).

If you search for the model year of the engine on Amazon you can find generic COPs real cheap (8 for $50..). Use a generic COPs to trouble shoot ONLY and when you find the bad COP buy a NEW MOTORCRAFT COP from Amazon for $50 (IE do not leave the cheap generic coil in place, they do not last).

Much cheaper than going to a Ford dealer.. They will get you for $100 per COP plus labor.. or about $2K..

WEre you able to drive the vehicle slowly? I'm pretty sure all Ford modular V8's have a limp mode. Did you have any dash indicator lights illuminate?
Most storage related problems are fuel related, IME.