Solar, for very low knowledge inquirer!

vic46 wrote:

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
vic46, Please don't get too annoyed with Mexicowanderer. Or, go ahead and get annoyed (Yes, D. You can be annoying at times, though usually funny) but if you keep him blocked you will be blocking probably the most knowledgeable person here on lead acid batteries, their care, use and abuse. I think MW gets a little tired of repeating himself.

As for your original post and recaping some of the comments;
100 watts is NOTHING for the size of your house battery bank. Your batteries will handle a relatively large solar array.. BUT do you need it?

As has been mentioned, you need to do an energy audit and also decide how much time you are going to spend off grid.

Here are some numbers from a tongue in cheek post I made on another thread. It kind of puts solar energy in perspective.

First, think in Watts, not Amps. (Watts are Volts times Amps, so 10 Amps at 12 volts is 120 watts, as is 1 Amp at 120 Volts)

I am a big fan of solar, we have 420 watts (yes I'd like more) which is more than many if not most.

746 watts of solar panel is a larger than average solar installation for an RV;

(I chose 746 watts because that is ONE horsepower, for a perspective view)

The total solar energy reaching the earth's surface is on average slightly under 1400 watts(less than two horsepower) per square meter.

One electric appliance (kettle, toaster etc) runs 1200 Watts.

You need the batteries to store that energy so you can use it when you need it, and so that can use more energy than the sun is actually providing at the time.

The bigger the solar array the faster the batteries will recharge and store that energy for later.

You also need enough panels to get the the battery voltage up high enough for long enough to get them properly charged (up to 15 volts at times).

When you do your installation use the largest wires possible (within reason)so that you won't have to change them when you decide that you need more panels. (Almost everyone that goes solar adds to it eventually.)

Start learning and researching and don't hesitate to come back here with more questions. You will have them.

Good luck

PS I sent you a PM

Now that was a truly useful reply and exactly the sort of information I am looking for. As noted I am "looking" at a coach. :):):)

The search function is a wonderful feature. Use it, with keywords, and you'd be amazed what you can find on your own... the ability to answer your own questions through your own research.

To me, asking before you own your own RV is putting the cart before the horse. Get your RV, do some camping, learn your needs, then ask questions. Gotta crawl, before you walk, before you run.

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
vic46, Please don't get too annoyed with Mexicowanderer. Or, go ahead and get annoyed (Yes, D. You can be annoying at times, though usually funny) but if you keep him blocked you will be blocking probably the most knowledgeable person here on lead acid batteries, their care, use and abuse. I think MW gets a little tired of repeating himself.

As for your original post and recaping some of the comments;
100 watts is NOTHING for the size of your house battery bank. Your batteries will handle a relatively large solar array.. BUT do you need it?

As has been mentioned, you need to do an energy audit and also decide how much time you are going to spend off grid.

Here are some numbers from a tongue in cheek post I made on another thread. It kind of puts solar energy in perspective.

First, think in Watts, not Amps. (Watts are Volts times Amps, so 10 Amps at 12 volts is 120 watts, as is 1 Amp at 120 Volts)

I am a big fan of solar, we have 420 watts (yes I'd like more) which is more than many if not most.

746 watts of solar panel is a larger than average solar installation for an RV;

(I chose 746 watts because that is ONE horsepower, for a perspective view)

The total solar energy reaching the earth's surface is on average slightly under 1400 watts(less than two horsepower) per square meter.

One electric appliance (kettle, toaster etc) runs 1200 Watts.

You need the batteries to store that energy so you can use it when you need it, and so that can use more energy than the sun is actually providing at the time.

The bigger the solar array the faster the batteries will recharge and store that energy for later.

You also need enough panels to get the the battery voltage up high enough for long enough to get them properly charged (up to 15 volts at times).

When you do your installation use the largest wires possible (within reason)so that you won't have to change them when you decide that you need more panels. (Almost everyone that goes solar adds to it eventually.)

Start learning and researching and don't hesitate to come back here with more questions. You will have them.

Good luck

PS I sent you a PM

Now that was a truly useful reply and exactly the sort of information I am looking for. As noted I am "looking" at a coach. :):):)

vic46, Please don't get too annoyed with Mexicowanderer. Or, go ahead and get annoyed (Yes, D. You can be annoying at times, though usually funny) but if you keep him blocked you will be blocking probably the most knowledgeable person here on lead acid batteries, their care, use and abuse. I think MW gets a little tired of repeating himself.

As for your original post and recaping some of the comments;
100 watts is NOTHING for the size of your house battery bank. Your batteries will handle a relatively large solar array.. BUT do you need it?

As has been mentioned, you need to do an energy audit and also decide how much time you are going to spend off grid.

Here are some numbers from a tongue in cheek post I made on another thread. It kind of puts solar energy in perspective.

First, think in Watts, not Amps. (Watts are Volts times Amps, so 10 Amps at 12 volts is 120 watts, as is 1 Amp at 120 Volts)

I am a big fan of solar, we have 420 watts (yes I'd like more) which is more than many if not most.

746 watts of solar panel is a larger than average solar installation for an RV;

(I chose 746 watts because that is ONE horsepower, for a perspective view)

The total solar energy reaching the earth's surface is on average slightly under 1400 watts(less than two horsepower) per square meter.

One electric appliance (kettle, toaster etc) runs 1200 Watts.

You need the batteries to store that energy so you can use it when you need it, and so that can use more energy than the sun is actually providing at the time.

The bigger the solar array the faster the batteries will recharge and store that energy for later.

You also need enough panels to get the the battery voltage up high enough for long enough to get them properly charged (up to 15 volts at times).

When you do your installation use the largest wires possible (within reason)so that you won't have to change them when you decide that you need more panels. (Almost everyone that goes solar adds to it eventually.)

Start learning and researching and don't hesitate to come back here with more questions. You will have them.

Good luck

PS I sent you a PM

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Yeah a blindfold always helps. Buy a book eat the pages. OP you need to describe specifically how you want to use your coach. Your lifestyle.

Thanks, that was a terrific help.

Block initiated.

In my case a 100 watt panel and two batteries runs the fridge and lights nicely.
What else do we need electricity for when camping?

MrWizard wrote:

RJsfishin wrote:
If it has 10 batteries, I'd quit lookin at it !

WHY ?

WE have 10 batteries
(8) 12v AGM house batteries
(2) 12v FLA engine batteries

it came with (4) house batteries
and i added (4) more

Didn't reply when I asked also!

There are various ways of setting up solar.

Add up the Ah ratings of the batteries and have 1 watt per Ah.

The balanced approach means knowing how much power you need, having the battery to provide it when the sun doesn't shine for a few days. Enough solar to bring those batteries back up relatively fast when the sun does come back, and some form of alternate charging when the sun hides for too long.

The last one is cover the roof in panels, fill the bay with batteries and you are maxed out. Should that not be enough power, learn to conserve either painlessly with LED lighting and lower power TV's and such, or the hard way of simply not using as much power.

So unless you are going for the last one, you need to know what you want.

Yeah a blindfold always helps. Buy a book eat the pages. OP you need to describe specifically how you want to use your coach. Your lifestyle.

RJsfishin wrote:
If it has 10 batteries, I'd quit lookin at it !

WHY ?

WE have 10 batteries
(8) 12v AGM house batteries
(2) 12v FLA engine batteries

it came with (4) house batteries
and i added (4) more

Here is a simple flow chart.

Budget-->Energy Audit-->Battery bank size-->number of watts-->PWM or MPPT. What ever type of controller is chosen, make sure it has adjustable set points and a temperature probe that is on the battery.

If you use solar as a battery charger, one rule of thumb is between 60 and 150 watts of panels per 100 amp-hours of storage. The smaller the battery bank the higher the wattage needed (per 100 amp-hours). Here is a link to the rather special spreadsheet which includes an energy audit, that N8GS has created to help size solar battery charging systems!
solar spreadsheet by N8GS

If you full time or use an inverter lots, then populate the entire unshaded area of the roof with panels. I'm considering replacing my awning with solar panels.

For a nice explanation of solar, try this link:
Golden rules of solar