Tapping Into 120v Question

Ed_Gee wrote:
JUST BE SURE YOUR BREAKER IS OFF FIRST !

And after you THINK the proper breaker is off, test for voltage anyway. If you see one more wire than you think there should be, there might be TWO different circuits using the run.

Also try to make sure that you can tug enough slack in the existing wire to actually make the splice that you want to make.

If the existing wire is exactly behind where you want the new outlet, then you should be able to use the two sets of screws on the new outlet to effectively splice the wire back together and no wire nuts will be needed......except maybe for the ground.

Please don't use your home handyman book for this. Get professional help.

RVs are not houses due to the vibrational environment. They require different devices, connections, and even tools. Then some of the rules do apply, such as use of boxes, wire support requirements, branch circuit sizing, etc.

It says in my handyman book that I finally dragged out after all this fuss, that what I want to do is called "middle of the run" as opposed to "end of the run". Shows the three wires in a wire nut. I see the better connecters posted above, will check that out. Thanks.

So the word I wanted was "run", not "string".

I am not convinced there is no series vs parallel with all this. ISTR something about that in another handyman book, but have to check up on that. EG, if at the end of run you ran two more, but both from the same previous receptacle's second set of connectors.

Whatever, I have enough info to proceed and not electrocute myself or anybody else. Thanks again.

bid_time wrote:
I thik you should find someone that knows what they are doing. Your questions and comments are worrisome and shocking.

I see what you did there...

yes your inserting a NEW receptacle in-between (2) existing outlet on that circuit

if you have enough slack in the cable/wire you can just connect everything to the new outlet, inserting a new outlet in the daisy chain

if not enough slack, yes (3) wires per 'wire nut' and connect the 'pigtail' to the new outlet

i assume this is what you intend to do, because the outlet will NOT be located where the connection is being made

Hi BFL13,

Cut the wire. Add a box and outlet. Add new wire to the new outlet. Put in a 2nd outlet or junction box, feeding it with the new wire.

BFL13 wrote:

Love to, but not enough slack in the wire.

Too complicated to explain, but the info here says I can get the job done if I take care.

Most of the advice in this thread is applicable to residential home construction, not RVs. Some of it is scary.

Twist-on wire nuts are not appropriate in an RV. Crimp connectors are. Receptacles with wire-wrapped screws are not appropriate in an RV. Positive locking wire connections are.

(For reference, notice that ALL automotive connections are crimped or positively locked. There are no wire nuts, twisted wires, screw connections, or even soldered connections. And that's all 12v, not 110v.)

The way a professional would do this job is to open the self-contained outlet that has power and add a power-tap that connects the new self-contained outlet to the existing line. That might mean some additional cable in either the existing circuit or the new circuit to obtain the needed slack.

Of course, if the existing circuit is already fully loaded, such as for an air conditioner or microwave, then a different circuit will have to be found.

How it should be done is described in this installation guide (p. 10): http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/InstallationGuide.pdf

Also note that whenever you mention self-contained devices used in RVs, someone will post that they are cheap and dangerous. That is not true. They are more expensive than residential devices and you can find UL and CSA certified devices such as the Hubbell Wirecon devices. They are used by RV manufacturers since they are thin and light. Like their residential counterparts, there are good and bad ones. Choose wisely.

https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=163065

This is how I wire virtually every receptacle and toggle switch. Single strand solid conductor has to be crimped more carefully than multi-stand wire but the contact area under the screw on the receptacle is vastly increased in area. The tightened screw is FAR and away less likely to loosen with heat or vibration.

(2) 14 AWG stranded or solid wire can fit in the linked part number above. I used this terminal back-to-back under each screw allowing four wires for each terminal*. Quicksilver has 10AWG marine cable and back to back, a pair of wires is easy to fit.

*Specialty light load electronic work bench receptacle clusters.

BFL13 wrote:
Thanks for all the info. I was also worried about series or parallel (whichever it is!) getting in on a "string" of receptacles "sideways" like that, if that reduces the power available at the "sideways" receptacle. If so, will it still work for size with the 15a breaker on the original "string" circuit?

I could be using "string" improperly there; I know that "string" means solar panels in series, but that might be a different use of the word.

The proper term is "circuit".

AC power is always parallel. For outlets, just keep the blacks together and the whites together. Resizing the breaker is not required. You are allowed to have a large number of outlets on one 15A circuit. You may not like this if you have multiple items that draw a lot of current (like a microwave and an A/C unit) which will cause the breaker to trip.

There are multiple ways to "tap" the circuit within an electrical junction box (where the outlet is mounted). The biggest problem is using the limited amount of wire that is there to complete the task. Lots of YouTube videos on adding an outlet. Watch a couple.

bid_time wrote:
I thik you should find someone that knows what they are doing. Your questions and comments are worrisome and shocking.

Good suggestion ! "A man has to know his limitations !"

Ed_Gee wrote:
Be sure to pass the ground wire circuit through too, even if you have to screw both bare leads down under one screw terminal.

Absolutely NOT, ground wire must be pig tail connected.