Transmission fluid additive in the hydraulic system

I installed new springs to the slow jyack. Now it goes up quicker than the other on on the rear. This new spring is made different than the old ones.

"I know it's a matter of time before I have to get another cylinder but just trying to prolong is life"

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"Brake fluid swells neoprene. But I warn you, this is a tourniquet not a health spa treatment"

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Amazing how the English language morphs ;)

dougrainer wrote:
1. HWH is ADAMANT to NOT use any additive in the system
2. Under warranty, when the seals stick. HWH replaces the cylinder, NOT try to do silly things like polish the cylinder or wipe it down with something else or add an additive. ALL that does is temporarily stop the problem. It comes back in a few weeks or a month.
3. The problem is the seals have stiffened up and only a rebuild or replacement with the new style seals will fix the problem
4. If you want to know if springs are your problem
1. If they are NOT rusted and both ends taper up to the hook, your springs are OK
2. When you retract, with NO springs, you can easily push the cylinder fully up. If you suspect the springs, when it stops, manually push it up. If you cannot, then springs are not the problem. Doug

I couldn't agree more with Doug. Spot on. When hydraulic systems fail to operate correctly, it's rarely because they need a "Genie in a Bottle" or a magic wand. Find and fix the problem. Unless you want to be like one of my more memorable boon docking neighbors who couldn't get his jacks to retract from fully extended position with the front wheels off the ground. It's not a problem that a few days and a few $$$$'s won't fix.

Chum lee

n4hwl wrote:
Doug

When the jack stuck 1 inch from the top I reached under it and was able to easily push the jack up in place with my hand.

Ken

Replace all 8 springs. 2 per jack. Doug

Doug

When the jack stuck 1 inch from the top I reached under it and was able to easily push the jack up in place with my hand.

Ken

1. HWH is ADAMANT to NOT use any additive in the system
2. Under warranty, when the seals stick. HWH replaces the cylinder, NOT try to do silly things like polish the cylinder or wipe it down with something else or add an additive. ALL that does is temporarily stop the problem. It comes back in a few weeks or a month.
3. The problem is the seals have stiffened up and only a rebuild or replacement with the new style seals will fix the problem
4. If you want to know if springs are your problem
1. If they are NOT rusted and both ends taper up to the hook, your springs are OK
2. When you retract, with NO springs, you can easily push the cylinder fully up. If you suspect the springs, when it stops, manually push it up. If you cannot, then springs are not the problem. Doug

Perhaps it's time for new springs? They do get stretched out, rusted, etc.

The jack is not leaking at all. It is just going up slowly. On one cycle it stopped 1 inch from going all the way up and would go no further and the jack down light stayed on. After cleaning and lubricating it with fully extended with automatic transmission fluid it goes all the way back up but is still a little slower than the other rear jack.

I think in the end I will have the get a new jack or this one rebuilt but we will see.

Ken

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
This is a question senor westend, not a comment or a critique of your response...

Is not extremely fine emery cloth referred to as "crocus cloth"? I would like to re-learn this as I have projects that would love to see "fine emery cloth" and wish to know for sure if the term "crocus cloth" would succinctly define what I need to a hardware store employee north of the border.

Crocus cloth has iron oxide for abrasive and has nothing to do with emery cloth. Both have there place but crocus cloth would be better suited for a cylinder rod.

take it off take to a shop have rebuilt. then it won,t fail on your next trip.