Forum Discussion
- CA_TravelerExplorer III
TenOC wrote:
OK Your plug is molded vs the unit.CA Traveler wrote:
Is repair cost to high? Are you thinking of adding a 50A pigtail?
I do not understand your comment. Non Repairable. All one molded part.
Have you contacted the mfg for repair cost?
As a DYI person I'd take the unit apart to see about replacing the pigtail. If not then add a short pigtail with the individual wires and the entire splice encased in adhesive heat shrink. - MEXICOWANDERERExplorerA mini grinder and rasp can dig out epoxy fill. 50-amp wiring could be 6-gauge. Soldering plus several applications of 3:1 heat shrink tubing with sealant could make a strong pigtail socket.
- GdetrailerExplorer III
CA Traveler wrote:
TenOC wrote:
OK Your plug is molded vs the unit.CA Traveler wrote:
Is repair cost to high? Are you thinking of adding a 50A pigtail?
I do not understand your comment. Non Repairable. All one molded part.
Have you contacted the mfg for repair cost?
As a DYI person I'd take the unit apart to see about replacing the pigtail. If not then add a short pigtail with the individual wires and the entire splice encased in adhesive heat shrink.
Can't tell from the photo in the link but I do suspect that the entire body of the surge unit is sonically welded together and may not have any easy means to disassemble the body of the unit.
I have cut open a lot of sonic welded plastic power supplies and batteries over the yrs, it isn't the easiest nor neatest thing to do and extremely easy to cut into and damage internal items inside in the process of can opening.
Then once you have a sonic welded item can opened you now have the quandary on how to hold it together.
This type of repair is not for everyone nor for the faint of heart.
OP might be able to cut apart the female socket carefully and might be able to harvest just enough wire to make the connections with a new socket. But you would have to remove all the molding at each contact to find the wire and work back towards the surge unit. Either way there will not be a quick way to repair. - AcampingwewillgExplorer IITo answer the question "has anyone replaced the socket with wiring in another", I can say Yes, sort of. I had the same burnt issue, I cut the wires/socket, leaving as much wire as posible. I used a 4s deep metal box, wire in receptacle and a two screw connector along with the proper 50 amp cover plate.
Not what you would call water resistant but it's worked well for about two years now. I keep dielectric grease handy to keep things going and clean my copper after most every use. - fj12ryderExplorer IIIBoth 50 amp Surge Guard EMS I had were the 34750 model, and were able to be disassembled. They were simply screwed together, with an O-ring for a seal. Which failed miserably. It sounds like they may have fixed the leakage problem by sealing the unit so as to make it unrepairable. One way to do it I guess.
- TenOCNomadI was mistaken. The unit can be disassemble by removing 6 small screws. .. . :S. . . Thanks to ALL
- fj12ryderExplorer IIIPlease let us know what you find. I, for one, am curious if there was water intrusion as there was on mine.
- TenOCNomad
fj12ryder wrote:
Please let us know what you find. I, for one, am curious if there was water intrusion as there was on mine.
No Water in the unit. I do not know about the socket. I will replace all the Female wiring starting at the screws inside the unit and put on a longer pigtail with a Camco 55353 50 AMP Female Replacement Receptacle. Now to order a female receptacle. - fj12ryderExplorer IIIThanks for the info.
- wa8yxmExplorer IIIIf it is determined that is out of warranty.. you can replace the outlet
I was able to do it using the existing pigtail however that is not all that easy to do.. you can get a new pigtail. open the box (Carefully.. Replace the outlet end and re-close the box.... Of course if you do not feel comfortable doing this. DO NOT DO IT.
Yes that is a common failure of 50 (And even worse for 30) amp outlets and plugs NOT specific to any make or model (the replacement I used was bakelite type (hard plastic) and did not have that problem. though I did have to dissassemble it and clean the contacts a time or two)
Option 2 is to go hard wired.
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