MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
To protect the relay I sure would consider a FUSE. They make high amp fuses for original equipment for automobiles. I would consider a circuit breaker to have too sloppy a response.
And remember there are TWO ignition circuits in an ignition switch; Ignition 1 for the ignition circuit itself and Ignition 2 which kills accessories during startup and lights up when the key is turned to accessory position.
Yes I have a 60A Maxi fuse at the battery.
And think I'll avoid the whole ignition wiring issue by using that Princess Auto Isolation Relay. Too many contortions required to get ignition switched V out of this truck (2016 RAM 2500).
So, in sequence from the truck:
220A Alternator (14V nominal) + dual starting batteries
60A Maxi fuse
~15' 6 AWG cable from engine bay to truck bed
140A Battery Isolator (13.3V on, 12.8V off, Princess Auto)
1000 PSW Inverter 12VDC-120VAC
~25' 12 AWG, 120VAC, Extension Cord (with 15A waterproof connector inserted in the middle)
500W (max 650W), 120VAC, Meanwell Power Supply Battery Charger in trailer