Two leveling jack will not go down

Calpantera wrote:
I am only working on the forward one so far and it does not move at all, I jacked up the rig a few inches with my floor jack and used a big prybar and block of wood as a lever and nothing. I put a wood block under the jack and lowered the rig and it just sits on the block. Going to leave it like that for awhile. Any other things I can do? I assume cracking the lines at the jack will do nothing. I see what looks like a plug on the side. If I crack that will that help?

Thanks again for all the help!

Are you POSITIVE the T handles are OPEN all the way? If open, then take a 5/8 wrench and gently crack open the Hydraulic line just a little. That will allow the bad jacks to retract. Have a catch pan under each bad jack. About 1 pint of fluid will come out. usually less. Doug

I am only working on the forward one so far and it does not move at all, I jacked up the rig a few inches with my floor jack and used a big prybar and block of wood as a lever and nothing. I put a wood block under the jack and lowered the rig and it just sits on the block. Going to leave it like that for awhile. Any other things I can do? I assume cracking the lines at the jack will do nothing. I see what looks like a plug on the side. If I crack that will that help?

Thanks again for all the help!

Calpantera wrote:
OK dougrainer I tried it with all four T handles opened and all four extended. I hit the store button and only the two that were working previously retracted and the two that were not working are now stuck in the down position. I hit the off button and turned of the ignition switch so I do not burn out the other two. I have not closed the T handles. I assume they are stuck because they need to be lubed or something? Now what? :)

Thanks!

NOT good news. The 2 that will not retract have BAD internal seals and they are sticking. Leave the T handles OPEN. You will have to get either a floor jack or a long wood or metal pole to lever up the stuck jacks. IF your unit has air bags, start the engine and let the RV raise up when the air bags inflate. That should give you enough room to get under the stuck jacks unless you only extended them a few inches on your test. With the T handles OPEN, the jacks will retract when you lever them up with a lever or floor jack. Once fully retracted, close all 4 T handles. You will have to either replace those 2 bad jacks from HWH or remove them and send back to HWH for rebuild. Some local Hydraulic shops may be able to rebuild them also. You will also have to replace both solenoids that control those jacks. The previous owner KNEW of this problem. You will have to get the solenoids from HWH. If you cannot find a local shop to rebuild, you remove the cylinders and ship back for rebuild. ON the jacks are a Model number called a AP number. You really need that number of of each jack. The T handle solenoids are all basically the same. The NEW solenoids have a spring loaded release and no T handle. The front Jacks will be one model(the same AP number) The Rear Jacks are usually a heavier model but they will have the same AP number. Since your unit is 18 years old, I would also replace all 8 jack springs. Your old springs are probably rusted and have lost a lot of tensile strength. When you have a HWH jack, you can PUSH a GOOD jack to full retraction with just your hand. Doug

OK dougrainer I tried it with all four T handles opened and all four extended. I hit the store button and only the two that were working previously retracted and the two that were not working are now stuck in the down position. I hit the off button and turned of the ignition switch so I do not burn out the other two. I have not closed the T handles. I assume they are stuck because they need to be lubed or something? Now what? :)

Thanks!

Check the electrical connections
Check for continuity on the solenoid coils.

On your year you will have 4 solenoids that the 4 jack Hoses connect to. EACH Solenoid has a metal T handle for manual release. The 2 center solenoids are the front jacks and the 2 outer solenoids are the rear jacks. There is a label on the wire connection at each solenoid that will have RR RF LR LF. To make it easy, OPEN all four T handles and activate the jacks. Have someone inside activating and you be outside looking at all 4 Jacks. IF all 4 start to extend( all at once), then the solenoid is NOT stuck. Once you stop the Pump, the jacks will fully retract, so you have to have the pump activated long enough for all 4 to try to extend. Once you have determined WHICH of the 2 solenoids are for the inop jacks, and you state the fuses for those solenoids are good, then you want to test for 12 volts and Ground at the 2 wire plug when you activate the Pump. IF you have 12 volts at the solenoid, the solenoid is burnt out and must be replaced. Another way to test is to swap the 2 wire quick connect at the 2 center solenoids. That will cause the RF power to activate the LF solenoid and the LF to activate the RF. The usual cause of a bad/burnt out HWH solenoid is one or both of the inop jacks did not fully retract and the Red down light stayed ON and after 15 to 20 minutes of continual 12 volts to the solenoid it overheated and burned out. When a Jack Down light stays ON, the system keeps power to that solenoid until the down light goes out. These solenoids are MOMENTARY solenoids and should NOT have 12 volts more than 10 minutes. The spec for FULL retraction is 2 to 4 minutes per jack. This link is the Service manual for your system. Doug

Page 12 shows which solenoid is which

http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf

enblethen wrote:
Make and model of your leveling system?

HWH 310

Make and model of your leveling system?