Update Norcold 1201LRIM jumpered thermostatic switch

Starburst2 wrote:
I just posted with a similar problem. I did a search and it came up with 0 posts. Now I find this one with almost identical symptoms. What gives?????
Doug Rainer states that the blockage is as hard as a weld. If so, how can this suddenly occur? My refer is in my new Winnebago Sightseer less than 10 months old. The refer has worked well since new. I bought it in Mesa AZ and the temps were over 100 outside and the fridge worked great but it did not stand up to the Texas RGV temps in the 90's only a few months later. is this an indication of poor quality on Norcold's part or is it an aberration?
I would appreciate your comments as well Doug. I just posted about a half hour ago.
Regards,
Lloyd

The odds are you have NO blockage, You have a problem and you need to get it in to your dealer for evaluation and repair. They will FIX your refer, NOT replace it. Things malfunction, and this (your worry) is one of the problems with these Internet forums. You think you have a MAJOR problem, when in reality it is probably just a minor fix. Doug

OOPS Double post.

Well here we are in PV with a styrofoam cooler full of ice and some in the fridge as well.

We'll be here for almost three more weeks and tomorrow I'm going to start the fridge and put a fan up where the upper vent cover should be.

IF it starts cooling, can I run the fridge safely with the vent covers missing?

Now, it won't run on AC! I guess I'll have to pull the cover from the control unit and look for a fuse. (After checking at the plug for 120VAC!)

I did say missing vent covers above, not removed. They were removed and are now missing. If you think the fridge not working is stressing us out you haven't read my threads on the Mexico forum about the stolen Jeep. :M With the covers safely inside. :S

I may have to start a new thread looking for fridge repair/replacement in Yuma on the way home.

sorry for the double post.
Lloyd

I just posted with a similar problem. I did a search and it came up with 0 posts. Now I find this one with almost identical symptoms. What gives?????
Doug Rainer states that the blockage is as hard as a weld. If so, how can this suddenly occur? My refer is in my new Winnebago Sightseer less than 10 months old. The refer has worked well since new. I bought it in Mesa AZ and the temps were over 100 outside and the fridge worked great but it did not stand up to the Texas RGV temps in the 90's only a few months later. is this an indication of poor quality on Norcold's part or is it an aberration?
I would appreciate your comments as well Doug. I just posted about a half hour ago.
Regards,
Lloyd

Since I have near identical problems should I be going to Winnebago for a new Fridge since it is still under warranty?
Lloyd

I just posted with a similar problem. I did a search and it came up with 0 posts. Now I find this one with almost identical symptoms. What gives?????
Doug Rainer states that the blockage is as hard as a weld. If so, how can this suddenly occur? My refer is in my new Winnebago Sightseer less than 10 months old. The refer has worked well since new. I bought it in Mesa AZ and the temps were over 100 outside and the fridge worked great but it did not stand up to the Texas RGV temps in the 90's only a few months later. Is this an indication of poor quality on Norcold's part or is it an aberration?
I would appreciate your comments as well Doug. I just posted about a half hour ago.
Regards,
Lloyd

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
That is why I asked FINS? Fins are for heat absorbsion.

Take a large screwdriver by the handle and TAP the entire cooling unit as far up as you can reach, then shut it down. By the good fortune of CHOC MOOL if the phase of the moon and tides are synchronized, when you re-fire the unit back up after a 1-2 day wait, things return to normal. I've seen too many NORCOLD refrigerators fixed this way (including 2 of mine) to call it coincidence.

I guess KNOWLEDGE and Training and EXPERIANCE mean nothing to people like you. A partial blocked CU CANNOT be fixed or unblocked by banging or tapping or Burping on any part of the cooling unit. The Blockage (partial or full) is as HARD AS A WELD and is adhered to the inside tubing. When they used to rebuild(rebuilders do this now) cooling units for blockage (partial or full), they CUT OUT the area that has that blockage and welded a new tube section in place as you could not break loose or remove that blockage. If you do a search you can find one of the rebuilders website and he has cut out a cross section of the blocked tube showing the hard blockage. Doug

That is why I asked FINS? Fins are for heat absorbsion.

Take a large screwdriver by the handle and TAP the entire cooling unit as far up as you can reach, then shut it down. By the good fortune of CHOC MOOL if the phase of the moon and tides are synchronized, when you re-fire the unit back up after a 1-2 day wait, things return to normal. I've seen too many NORCOLD refrigerators fixed this way (including 2 of mine) to call it coincidence.

dougrainer wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
"Absorption fridges cool or don't----no in between (freezer cooling and food section not)"

Incorrect. A blocked cooling unit will still freeze the freezer and not cool the bottom. The blockage is AFTER the freezer coil sections on most cooling units. This is why some cannot believe they have a defective cooling unit. Doug

Just curious......

With blockage how can it continue to cool without flow which transfers the heat?

The Blockage(partial) is after the freezer coils and is enough to freeze the freezer and enough to inhibit the complete transfer of cold in the lower section. Very few have COMPLETE blockage. As I stated, when this happens, the RV'er cannot believe he has a defective cooling unit. Also, this was a very common scam selling used units. The seller would show the freezer frozen and the novice buyer thought the refer was working. THEN found out too late the had a $1000 plus problem. Doug

Thanks!
Always looking to gleam more info.