Water heater won't cut out on propane

Hey 'smg2014'

Have you found what issue was?

Did you check DC path when using propane/electric?

dougrainer wrote:

wildtoad wrote:
Contact Suburban and explain what has been done and that you think you need a new WH.

WHY would he call Suburban when he has stated he has an Atwood???????? .......

Because the OP edited his post to add that little bit of Atwood information after that poster, and the other posters asking brand, made their comments. Chill.

smg2014 wrote:
Yes I agree that new service dep't is needed but we are limited to RV Care dealers under warranty and closest is 2 1/2 hours away. Atwood brand, not Suburban. Good info Doug, thanks. Called Atwood and they say to replace ignition board.

Atwood uses the same set of t-stats for propane AND electric.
T-stat (Brown wires) is normal temp t-stat that opens at 140*F
ECO (Red wires) is Energy Cut Off High temp t-stat that opens at 180*F

Hard to swap them cause they have different size spade terminals (ECO---large spades & t-stat ----small spades)

IF the electric heats and shuts off properly (doesn't over heat) then the set of t-stats are working and would do same when propane is used.


Circuit board controls both electric and propane functions
When using electric a milivolt signal goes thru ECO to gas valve so that ECO is in control circuit (if it opens milivolt signal lost and electric heating is stopped)
When using propane full 12V Voltage goes thru ECO to gas valve.
When t-stat opens 12V is secured to ECO circuit and gas valve closes.

Measure water temps on electric/propane
When water reaches 140*F the T-stat OPENS and DC to circuit board stops to rest of circuits
When water temp reaches 110*F or less then T-stat CLOSES and DC continues to rest of circuits allowing reheating
(Same on electric or propane)

S/B DC on top connector anytime either switch is ON
No DC on bottom connector anytime T-stat OPENS

Any Atwood dealer should be able to handle the problem for you. Go to Atwoods web site, find a local dealer, call them, explain the problem and get an appointment.

Yes I agree that new service dep't is needed but we are limited to RV Care dealers under warranty and closest is 2 1/2 hours away. Atwood brand, not Suburban. Good info Doug, thanks. Called Atwood and they say to replace ignition board.

wildtoad wrote:
Contact Suburban and explain what has been done and that you think you need a new WH.

WHY would he call Suburban when he has stated he has an Atwood???????? The Black box on back of an Atwood is just where the 120 wiring connects and the 120 relay is located. HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LP OPERATION. The system is simple. You have a Tstat and a ECO. Now, if they install the ECO where the Tstat goes, then the W/H will not cut off until
1. The water is over 180 degrees
2. At that point the Pop Off valve will open and flow water
Now, you must make sure that the Tstat is snug against the Water Heater Aluminum tank. THIS is critical. That is why the spring is there, to keep pressure to the tank. Doug

Is this thermostat/hi temp cutout what they replaced?

Again, BRAND PLEASE!
The little black box is nothing more than the gas ignitor box. Temp relay pack calls for heat, the signal is sent from the black box to the gas valve and the ignitor. When flame is sensed the ignitor stops cycling. When temp is reached, the sensor pack opens, cutting power to the gas valve shutting down the gas flow. Really simple system. If your dealer cant seem to figure out how to fix it, it miht be time to find another service department.

Contact Suburban and explain what has been done and that you think you need a new WH.

First time it ran until relief valve popped. Second time we tried after thermostat was replaced, it ran for well over an hour. We finally just switched to electric. Water was scalding hot. Are we talking about same thing when I say relay box was replaced? Little black box attached to water heater on inside of unit. Atwood is the brand.