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pjw73nh's avatar
pjw73nh
Explorer
Jun 30, 2013

Water pump will only pump when tank is 1/3 or more full.

I just got back from a long weekend in my TT. Water supply issue. The TT is a 2011 Bullet Premiere 19 FBPR. It has 10 3-day trips "under it's belt". IE it is just about brand new. Not much use.

The 40 gallon fresh tank is located underneath the floor, between the main chassis I-beam rails in a sealed belly. Not too easy to see of get to, but I have had it "exposed" about a year ago.

The pump and associated inlet hose and outlet hose are accessible, above the floor in a sealed cabinet. The pump inlet is about 10 inches above the fresh tank outlet directly above it.

The pump is a Flo-Jet Model 03526-144. It has the "quick connect" type of connectors. They are not threaded. There was plenty of power in the battery and I was connected to 120 VAC.

So here's the problem:
Upon arrival at the camping area I pulled up to a water spigot to fill the fresh water. The trailer was level in both planes and the tank was empty. I flushed the spigot and hose for a few minutes before filling. I filled the fresh tank via the gravity fill until it burped out the fill when I removed the hose. I know it was as full as it can get. The monitor panel registered "FULL" all 4 dots lit up.

As the weekend progressed, all was well. The monitor panel went to 3 dots, then eventually to 2 dots commensurate with water use, and gray tank indicator lights.

Then, in what seemed to be a premature, (empty tank) situation, the faucets sputtered with air and water, and sounded like it was running dry. IE it sounded like there was no "load" on the pump. Even with all faucets off, it was just spinning quietly. I opened a few faucets and still no difference. Just sputtering.

With the pump running and one faucet open, I adjusted the level of the trailer. First I raised the front about 2 inches, then lowered it back 2 inches, then lowered it 2 more. No difference. I re-leveled it. Then I did the same thing only side to side, and not quite as much. Very difficult to get two inches difference side to side. But I KNOW I got enough to shift the level of any water in the tank. Needless to say, it made no difference on the pump. It was still spinning "dry".

At this point, I added some water to the gravity feed from a nearby hose on a spigot. After 2-4 minutes, the pump "grabbed" and began to sound "under load", normal and began to pump water out the faucet, and it shut off normally when closing the faucet. At first sputtering, then after a while a reasonable smooth (normal) flow. All was well.

Not for long.

After we "used" just about the amount of water I had added, it started the sputtering and spinning dry again.

With the pump spinning dry, the trailer level, and the monitor showing 2 dots (1/4 to 1/3 tank) of fresh water, I wanted to determine if, in fact, there was any water left in the fresh tank. I decided to drain any and all water out of the fresh tank from the drain on the bottom of the tank. I measured 10.2 gallons out of the fresh tank drain. So there was DEFINITELY water in the tank.

The only guess I can make is that the pump is weak. Whether the motor portion or the pump portion I don't know. My guess is that when there is a full tank, there is more pressure on the water at the bottom of the tank (the outlet) Thus, the pump doesn't have to work quite as hard to draw the water up into the pump inlet, and subsequently on out to the the faucets. Or is this a check valve issue? Is the check valve integrated into the pump head someplace?

I'd like to fix this without having to go into the "belly of the beast" again.

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks.

Paul.../NH

6 Replies

  • Be prepared to clean the filter soon, and often. You would not believe how much plastic junk is in a water tank. They don't clean anything out when cutting the holes etc etc.
  • UPDATE: I took Lynnmor's mod and adapted it for my trailer. Not only do I get every ounce of water from it now, but positive draining is WAY easier. I removed the existing feed, and plugged the hole withe a threaded plug. I put a 2-way valve on the existing lower drain. This allows me to either route the water to the pump inlet, or drain straight down.

    Thanks for the tip.

    Paul.../NH

    Water tank mod
  • Thanks for the replies. I like the idea of re-plumbing the pump to use the drain on the bottom. It's going to take a trip or two to the RV parts store. I am fortunate to have one that lets me go into the parts bins and "put together" what I need.

    I just to reiterate. I am not doubting the accuracy of the monitors. I know they are "relative indicators" at best. ***I was not out of water****. I had approximately 25% of my water left in the tank when the pump stopped. The design is ridiculous. I have had MANY RVs and this is the first one that withheld THIS much water. I can see a gallon or two....Of course you can't get ALL of it out. But TEN+ GALLONS !!!!!!! No way. Crappy design, and they should find a means of fixing it or at the very least revealing it. Not only should Keystone revise their specs to reveal a 30 gallon fresh tank, but they should also make it known that you will be carting an extra 80-90 lbs of useless cargo with you, decreasing your GCW capacity by 80 lbs.

    My Sunnybrook, Lance and Colemans NEVER had this issue to this extreme.
  • Tank sensors are nearly ALWAYS inaccurate. My guess is your tank was empty even though the sensor may have read 1/3.
  • I'm going to assume that everything is OK. The pump is.

    You would be surprised how fast one can go through water. A 40gal tank that may only have 35 gal useable at best can be empty in a couple nights easy.

    I had a 115gal tank in my boat. With 4 onboard it would last 4 nights. That is 6+ gal of water per day per person being very careful.
  • I think you have the same problem that I had with a KZ Spree. The pickup hose was on the side of the tank about 1-1/2" up. When the water drops to the top of the port, the pump will then suck air. If the tank is 6" high, then the top of the port is about 1/3 of a tank. To make matters worse, the tank was supported with only 3 straps which allowed sagging, in the unsupported areas. The sags wasted even more capacity. Even worse, the tank was vented straight down which caused extreme water loss while traveling.

    Fix for my trailer:
    1. Vented tank well above water level.
    2. Plugged side supply port.
    3. Attached the supply hose to the drain hose on bottom.
    4. Added two more straps to reduce sagging.

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