Our RV is a 2007 that we purchased in 2010 (new from dealer, so it sat for a few years). So, it's had four years of use and we took it out last weekend for the first trip of the season and had some low battery issues - not enough to cause problems, but we'd never seen the batteries sit on "low" before. I thought the batteries might be at end-of-life since they are from Feb 2010 as well.However, it looks like the converter/charger may not be working. When plugged in in storage, we used to be able to hear a noise when charging, and now we have low batteries and no noise. So far, we've checked the breakers, but not the fuses (assuming there are fuses).It is a WFCO WF8955AN. Is four years of use (plus three sitting) the likely lifespan for a converter? Is there anything else we should check before calling it dead? If it's dead, is there a recommended replacement?I'm planning to put a solar system on the RV this year - the panels are being shipped (632 watts!), but I still need to purchase the rest of the components, in case that somehow factors into recommendations.Thanks in advance for any recommendations!

This is my 4th season. I've repaired/replaced my parallax twice.I'd call it a common occurrence.

testing without DC voltmeter is pretty simple to point fingers at least.Turn on your ceiling lights without being connected to shore power. Your ceiling lights should work.Then connect trailer to shore Power and your ceiling lights should get alittle bit brighter.Having a DC VOLTMETER is best way to test.Without shore power connected you should be able to read around 12.6VDC across the charged up battery terminals.Turning on your shore power you should be able to read 13.6VDC across the same battery terminals. This is telling you all the fuses are connected between the converter/charge and the 12VDC distribution panel. It is also telling you the fuses are good between the 12VDC Distribution panel and the battery terminals...If you don't see the 13.6VDC then either there is a bad connection, the battery disconnect switch if you have is open, or fuses are bad between the battery terminals and the output of the converter/charger unit or the converter/charger is bad.There is a 120VAC circuit breaker on the 120VAC Power Distribution panel that feeds the converter/charger unit. Be sure it is closed. If the converter/charger is ON you should be able to measure 13.6VDC at the DC OUTPUT terminals at the converter/charger unit at all times except when it is doing charge mode operations. Then it may read 13.2VDC, 13.6VDC, or 14.4VDC depending what charge mode it is doing at the time....Let the forum know what your read...Roy Ken

It look's like your only way of checking your batteries is the "Idiot meter".Almost useless!Get a multi-meter, if you no not already own one. Take the voltage reading at the battery-terminals first while unplugged. A fully charged battery will read 12.6+ volts (50% charged = 12.1 volts, 30% = 11.75 volts, 10% = 11.3 volts).Now plug into shore-power. Take reading at the battery(s) again. You should see the voltage rise to 14.4 volts (bulk rate charging for your unit) or at least 13.6 volts (absorption rate charging if the battery(s) were better than 75% charge).If you see only 13.2 volts the converter portion works but not the charger portion. No increase in voltage means the unit has failed, if the breaker for 120v AC power has not tripped, or the fuses are okay (there is either one or two on the back of the converter/charger).Please note if your battery(s) voltage is less than 11.0 volts they are likely dead. That means they cannot operate the solenoid to either "connect" or "disconnect" from the 12v dc circuit for charging. Also; the charger will not continue to charge a dead battery. It automatically shuts down.Start the MH engine. The alternator should allow charging of the batteries since it by-passes the disconnect switch. You should see 14.5 volts, or more, showing charging from the alternator. Once the batteries have been charged with the engine idling for 15 minutes or more, a working converter/charger should start charging batteries if the "disconnect" switch will work to connect the batteries to the circuit. The charger should be allowed to charge the batteries 12 to 24 hours. Let the batteries sit while the MH is unplugged for 24 hours. If the battery(s) read less than 12.6 volts they are sulfated and need replacement.I suspect you batteries are shot from little TLC. Make sure the water level is okay in all the battery cells. By the way, my WFCO 45 amp multi-stage charger is original from fall 2002. If the charger is bad you will find out by checking

@MNtundraRet - thanks! I'll do some troubleshooting! You're right, we've mostly relied on the idiotmeter. We have a multimeter onboard, but have generally taken the lazy route (and/or really haven't had much concern about the batteries as we tend to do a lot of driving and they never get very low). I bought one of those little meters that plug into a 12V outlet (which I know also can be problematic relative to accurate readings depending on having charged or used your battery within some period of time), but it turns out I have no 12V outlets in the coach. So, we've just gotten along for the past four years with little muss/fuss other than making sure the water level in the batteries is fine.

No one has mentioned that the converter you have has the highest failure rate of any converter ever made. And even before they fail, not a one of them has performed as they are supposed to, namely never go in to bulk charging mode for the fastest battery charging when dry camping on generator. So, whether you go solar or not, you should thinking of replacing that converter, even if it isn't dead yet. No, it is not normal to have to replace or repair a converter every few years. They should last near the lifetime of the RV. Replace it w/ a PD 9200 series, and it will last near forever.

WFCO Converter/Charger Dead? How to tell? | Good Sam Community

14 Replies

mena661
Explorer
May 11, 2014
alliemac9 wrote:
We did some troubleshooting today and the batteries were charged and the WFCO seemed to be working. We think there may have been a bad connection in the wiring as when we went to inspect it the fan kicked on.

Anyway, after looking everything over, it appears our control panel (aka idiot meter) may be the culprit. The batteries were at 13.6V (14.6V when we got the WFCO kicked on) and the LED's showed low the entire time (and the charging LED never lit up).
You're reading the converters output not actual battery voltage. Fully charged batteries will read 12.8V when there are NO loads and NO chargers hooked up to them for 24 hrs. Some people can knock off the surface charge (residual charge on the batteries when a charger is first disconnected) by turning on all the lights for some time and letting the voltage drop on the batteries. I don't do that because if you have a problem with the batts themselves you won't know.
KJINTF
Explorer
May 11, 2014
However, it looks like the converter/charger may not be working. When plugged in in storage, we used to be able to hear a noise when charging, and now we have low batteries and no noise. So far, we've checked the breakers, but not the fuses (assuming there are fuses).

It is a WFCO WF8955AN. Is four years of use (plus three sitting) the likely lifespan for a converter? Is there anything else we should check before calling it dead? If it's dead, is there a recommended replacement?

I'm planning to put a solar system on the RV this year - the panels are being shipped (632 watts!), but I still need to purchase the rest of the components, in case that somehow factors into recommendations.

I assume the noise was the integrated cooling fan - the bushings or on some the bearings seize up due to dust and dirt - Excessive HEAT Destroys converters very quickly

Yes internal fuses - typically no external fuses

Lifespan - seen them go no more than 2 years and alos as long as 20 plus years - Heat destroys them

Get you Voltmeter out and check it's output - typically 13.6 Volts with batteries connected

600 plus watts sounds like a good setup for solar - my 550watts work for us

If you decide to trash the WFCO I would be happy to pay shipping chargers to get it here - Please do not toss it in the trash
pinesman
Explorer
May 11, 2014
Multiple electrical problems could indicate a bad ground
tenbear
Explorer
May 11, 2014
Many people on the forum have installed panel mount meters from eBay to keep track of their batteries. Here is a pic of my meters.
westend
Explorer
May 11, 2014
You could replace the LED indicators with a digital panel mount meter. Someone posted a deal on them in the last couple of weeks, I think they were around $4.

FWIW, I hope to have the record for longest working 12V converter, the PD808 in my rig is 43 years old and works well. It has the optional battery charging circuit board that makes it a two-stage converter, whoo hoo!
alliemac9
Explorer
May 11, 2014
We did some troubleshooting today and the batteries were charged and the WFCO seemed to be working. We think there may have been a bad connection in the wiring as when we went to inspect it the fan kicked on.

Anyway, after looking everything over, it appears our control panel (aka idiot meter) may be the culprit. The batteries were at 13.6V (14.6V when we got the WFCO kicked on) and the LED's showed low the entire time (and the charging LED never lit up).

Coincidentlly, on this same trip our grey tank started reading 2/3rds no matter what we do. First time we've had a problem with these indicators. I thought they were flakey due to stuff getting hung up on the sensors, but I didn't know the panel itself was flakey. Any thoughts?
dclark1946
Explorer
May 10, 2014
alliemac9 wrote:
@MNtundraRet - thanks! I'll do some troubleshooting! You're right, we've mostly relied on the idiotmeter. We have a multimeter onboard, but have generally taken the lazy route (and/or really haven't had much concern about the batteries as we tend to do a lot of driving and they never get very low). I bought one of those little meters that plug into a 12V outlet (which I know also can be problematic relative to accurate readings depending on having charged or used your battery within some period of time), but it turns out I have no 12V outlets in the coach.

So, we've just gotten along for the past four years with little muss/fuss other than making sure the water level in the batteries is fine.

There is nothing wrong with using the RV battery indicator as your first check on battery voltage. I use mine on a regular basis even though I carry two high quality DMMs. For example, I know that when I am plugged into shore power all the lights should be on. When I get up in the morning with no shore power when dry camping I should have all but one light on. Anything different from these two conditions means I have an abnormal condition and I need to investigate. I can do that all without getting my digital meter out.

Incidentally our 7 year old WFCO converter is still function nicely even though it has never gone into bulk mode which is no big deal for me. It charges my battery nicely when we dry camp for over a week Some day when I have nothing better to spend money on I may replace it.

Dick
Shadow_Catcher
Explorer
May 10, 2014
In all likely hood what you want is a replacement unit http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600_converter_replacement.html
alliemac9
Explorer
May 09, 2014
BTW, thanks for all the other responses that I haven't responded to yet - for some reason I only saw MNtundra's response when I got the email notification.

Anyway, if I wanted to just get a new one - is the PD 9200 series generally considered the best quality option? I'd rather buy a good one from the get-go. And then, do I choose the 60A version (PD9260C per Progressive Dynamic's website) because it is the closest match to my prior 55A unit? Or is there some other determinant for picking which model to buy?

Lastly, if the PD9260C is the favorite option, does anyone know what the "CV" designation means on the listing on Amazon (PD9260CV)? Is this the model I should purchase?
RJsfishin
Explorer
May 09, 2014
No one has mentioned that the converter you have has the highest failure rate of any converter ever made. And even before they fail, not a one of them has performed as they are supposed to, namely never go in to bulk charging mode for the fastest battery charging when dry camping on generator. So, whether you go solar or not, you should thinking of replacing that converter, even if it isn't dead yet.
No, it is not normal to have to replace or repair a converter every few years. They should last near the lifetime of the RV. Replace it w/ a PD 9200 series, and it will last near forever.