Looking at the paucity of choices in 12v fixtures for my new van build, I am wondering if I can repurpose 120v fixtures. What is the difference? Just the bulb? I cannot see why the electrons would mind fatter wire, and I see there are E26 12v bulbs...although that could lead to confusion. What would happen if I used a 120v bulb on 12v power? Suboptimal light production, I imagine. Less than a 12v bulb of same type (LED, incandescent, etc.)? More heat danger?I'd appreciate any insights.

Any 120V fixture can be modified to run on 12V. Any 120V wire will do fine on 12V.You will learn that finding "Edison" (either the medium or small) base 12V lights is more difficult and expensive, but still possible. I've even seen 12V LED bulbs in these bases.

As n7bsn said, it's quite possible to use a 120v fixture with 12V bulbs of the appropriate type, at least in most cases. A few modern 120V fixtures designed for low power bulbs only might (emphasis on the might) have wiring that is too small for the current required for a bright 12V bulb, particularly an incandescent one, but even there I would not generally expect problems.The opposite is not true; few if any 12V fixtures would be safe for use with 120V power, even if you could find 120V bulbs that fit the 12V socket styles.A 120V incandescent bulb operating at 12V would produce no visible light, or close enough to no light to be the same thing, but would otherwise not have any problems or suffer any damage. An LED or CFL bulb would also almost certainly not produce any light at all, and there's a very small chance they could be damaged by DC current. (Assuming the cold impedance of the incandescent bulb is the same as the hot impedance, which is not the case, it would theoretically dissipate one one-hundredth of the power at 12V as it would at 120V. In practice I think it's somewhat higher as the cold impedance is lower than that at operating temperature, but still nowhere near sufficient to heat the filament sufficiently to glow appreciably.)

I agree with the above. I've had 12V bulbs that screwed into drop lights that I cut the male plug off of and replaced with clips to clip on a battery - a poor way to go and at best they were equal to a 60W 120V bulb.In a fixture with a 120V screw base, you wouldn't be able to use any 12V LED bulbs that I know of.Recently on EBay I bought some used 12V fixtures for $5 that someone had removed from a remodeling job.Bill

Thanks, guys! I could also take the socket from an ugly 12v fixture and put it in a 120v fixture I like better. I don't know anything about 12v lights... I gather there are multiple types/shapes of sockets? Which ones do you recommend?I like a LOT of lumens, tho I suppose that is something I will need to compromise on for batteries.In my current van, I just have small battery lanterns, a flashlight, and a 120v lamp for when I have shore power. I am only inside + awake for a few hours at night, but I hate trying to do anything in the dim light.I've also looked at big-azz lanterns that take like 6 D batteries. Maybe them plus dimmer hardwired 12v?

your doing a van conversionyou might want to think about 12v LED strip lightingcomes in 16ft aka 5meter roll, cool white, warm white(aka yellow) or even mood colors, you can even get multi-colored programmable rolls, and have it all in onethis is what used when i did my lighting conversion, you can cut the roll in strips of almost any length, just as long as you cut on the cut marks, aka every (3) ledsit self sticks directly to metal, which makes a good heat sinkyou could but it behind a valance or under a cabinet, or in strips across the ceiling, each strip on a different switch, as little or much lighting as you wantsome are as cheap as $12 roll on amazon, water proof versions for $18but if cut the water proof roll in strips you must seal the ends of the cut strips with sealant or glue to keep them water proofa number of members have done some really nice things with the LED strip lighting, more lumens for less power use than standard 12v bulbsi bought the 5050 SMD 300 LED , cool white versionfor my conversioni just ordered the water proof version, going to try a step light upgrade project

What makes a light fixture 12v DC vs. 120v AC? | Good Sam Community

BillW44
Explorer
May 19, 2017
Naio wrote:
I avoid florescents like the plague on AC, too :B

Smart. They're pricey when they start to go out. Probably DC ballasts cause a lot of the problems themselves, AC might last longer due to stable AC. But still, going the way of the dinosaur perhaps, as far as I know.

You can get the (can't remember what they're called) newer type efficient AC bulbs (look like a flexible straw bent up) and they're really nice and very efficient.
BillW44
Explorer
May 19, 2017
MrWizard wrote:
No Body is talking about going FL
the topic is LED lighting in a new DIY camper Van

i looked up some lighting for the OP, and ended up buying some of it

i converted my FL to LED 2yrs ago
the New LED lamps will go over the Sofa and over the Dining table (under the cabinets

led is definitely the way to go with DC, as long as you'll be able to find some standard replacement. Not sure about life compared to DC regular bulbs but I'd speculate the leds would out live them. Even the DC bulbs can be hard to find now.
MrWizard
Moderator
May 19, 2017
FL use less energy for the same amount of light output as incadescent

but LEDS use even less power

my 'gripe' with FL is the cost of replacement tubes

i was replacing at least (2) a year , IIRC the 15w tubes are about $9 each and the 9w tubes cost even more
thats why i went LED, and happy i did
Naio
Explorer II
May 19, 2017
I avoid florescents like the plague on AC, too :B
MrWizard
Moderator
May 19, 2017
No Body is talking about going FL
the topic is LED lighting in a new DIY camper Van

i looked up some lighting for the OP, and ended up buying some of it

i converted my FL to LED 2yrs ago
the New LED lamps will go over the Sofa and over the Dining table (under the cabinets
BillW44
Explorer
May 18, 2017
Avoid fluorescent run on DC like the plague. They have very involved circuitry to convert DC to AC to run them and they are nothing but trouble down the road. Just go AC besides some basic simple DC type fixtures.
MrWizard
Moderator
May 17, 2017
i moved the pictures to the root folder with a simple folder name
and it worked,

i'll try to remember the https trick, thanks for the tip
DrewE
Explorer II
May 17, 2017
If you change the protocol in the URL to https (from http) and reload the page and then post (which will also then use the https protocol), the site for some reason lets you include a percent sign in posts.

Like these ones: % % % % %

There's no inherent reason why a percent sign should be disallowed over a non-encrypted connection, but that's apparently the way it is.
MrWizard
Moderator
May 17, 2017
the lights arrived Monday
last night i got around to a quick test
i used velcro strips to attach (2) lamps to the ceiling
right beside the existing fixture above the foot of the bed
the existing fixture is one of my FL conversions with (2) strips of 5050 SMD leds inside and a frosted cover
the new lamps have 2835 SMD leds (smaller leds-with more per foot)

IIRC the conversion tested at 7w power use {edit..quick power check..bedroom LED conversion is 10w power use}

the (2) new lamps are rated a 4w each , 8w total, have clear lens cover

the new lamps are brighter
i took about ten pictures, of the bed and the DOG sleeping, but didn't do a good job
and need to take them again, but here are two, showing the light beaming down on the foot of the bed

existing (2) strip conversion 10w frosted lens/defuser {originally 30w florescent}

New (2) lamps 8w clear lens, velcro to ceiling

edit the kitchen counter, bathroom and hall light conversions use 7w {two shorter strips} {originally 18w florescent}
Naio
Explorer II
May 13, 2017
That's great Mr Wizard! I look forward to hearing how you like them.