When replacing cranking battery .....

I use an alternate battery source (even a LIGHTWEIGHT 12 volt electronic power supply that you plug into shore power works great for this) MAKE SURE POSITIVE IS POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE IS NEGATIVE BEFORE YOU USE THIS!!!

TURN OFF ALL engine battery accessories. You must not overpower the substitute charger.

Get two OLD radiator hoses or heavy towels. Something that when wrapped around the BATTERY TERMINALS will not short out. Connect with clip to the negative and positive battery terminals, loosen and remove NEGATIVE terminal from battery while not shaking the power supply clip off. Wrap in a towel or stuff into a radiator hose. Then do the positive terminal.

You have all the time in the world now. Use it to clean up and repair wiring and terminals and battery holder.

BUT BUT BUT

It is IMPERATIVE that you NOT USE a transformer type electronics power supply for this. If the charger is a black cube and weighs nearly a pound do not use it! These things can surge to 18 volts!

The CORRECT substitute power supply is lightweight, an ounce or two. The difference between the two types of chargers is impressive weight wise.

500 to 800 milliamps capacity is PLENTY! 200 is minimum.

Your computer codes, radio memory will not be lost.

Took longer to write this than it takes to do it all including clamping clips on a solid state electronic gizmo power supply.

RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
Chassis battery has absolutely nothing to do with the converter.
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The minute the ignition is turned on, the chassis batt along w/ the house batts, is back feeding the converter.

Incorrect - The chassis battery is not connected to the house batteries for charging until the engine is started and the alternator is outputting. That's how my Fleetwood is setup.

Crazy Ray wrote:
Convertor wenty from 13.6 to 12.8 volts thats the real problem. The convertor is PD9270 (NEW ). I don;t have a clue. Btry and convertor put in Thursday. Thanks for all HELP

We don't have a clue either. You are asking for help and giving us nothing to work with. What exactly was done and what exactly isn't working? Details, details, details.

Quote:
Chassis battery has absolutely nothing to do with the converter.
-------------------------------------------------------------
The minute the ignition is turned on, the chassis batt along w/ the house batts, is back feeding the converter.

Chassis battery has absolutely nothing to do with the converter. I would be looking at the converter. Since both were installed at the same time, it is the converter installation that is the problem.

A PD converter should be putting out

a) 14.4v boost mode
b) 13.6v normal mode
c) 13.2v storage mode

anything else means the PD is not working properly. The 12.8v you are getting is from a fully charged battery with no current from the converter.

Convertor wenty from 13.6 to 12.8 volts thats the real problem. The convertor is PD9270 (NEW ). I don;t have a clue. Btry and convertor put in Thursday. Thanks for all HELP

Since it was the chassis battery, I would think the chassis manufacturer, Ford, would be the one to ask.

We still don't know exactly WHAT is malfunctioning. The OP has not been back since the first post.

Call Fleetwood at 800/322.8216 and press 1 for customer relations, then 2 on the next menue. They're open 8 - 5 Eastern time. After giving them the year and model they can tell you if there was anything special you have to do or reset. Listen close to the recording and it will tell you were you can go on the web to download Fleetwood owner manuals.

Sometimes they need the FIN # for a few specific questions. You should maybe have it handy also.

Bill

Question: Do you have a 12 volt Accessory socket that is chassis powered and which is "HOT" when the ignition is off?

If so plug in a "Memory saver" (9 volt battery thing) from any auto store/department first.

Or you could hook a test lamp across the isolator solenoid (Which is how I will do it when the time comes)

The lamp acts as a self re-setting "Fuse" should you accidently short something.

I disconnected by engine battery and when I reconnected it everything works except the radio/cd player now has the display that was intended for display. Someday I'll figure out how to set it so it only displays the time, like it was before.