Where to buy a replacement fridge?

Thank you all for the great advice!

The SLIGHTEST forced convection ELIMINATES the need for that 5" gap. From experience not theory.

MrWizard wrote:
My fridge draws about 90w running
But it has a 900w start up surge, that requires a good inverter mounted reasonably close to the batteries with proper gauge wire

If your frig only runs about a third of the time (and ignoring start up watts), that would roughly agree with the Avanti's EnergyStar rating of 251 kWh per year.

Some info I've picked up on the web:

The Avanti RA7306/16 7.4 cu ft frig has an EnergyStar rating of only 251 kWh. But they also advertise it as "free standing" and the installation instructions recommend a 5" gap on either side, raising the total width needed to 31.5". Not sure how important this is.

The Whirlpool WRT111 10.7 cu ft has an EnergyStar rating of 301 kWh and only requires 0.5" on either side; so the total width needed is only 26.5". But it's also taller and deeper than the Avanti.

Wal-Fart down here has a cute separate door refrigerator freezer roughly the same size as an 8CF NotCool gas unit. About eqvt $240.00

Going to buy that for the stick & brick. Then a Haier 12CF chest freezer for $288.00

Then buy $200 worth of frozen goods and drive home like a madman for 2 hours. Everything wrapped in Space Blankets.

You have not experienced "CRUDE-ZINE" until you have masticated Mexican buckshot, I mean peas or corn.

My fridge draws about 90w running
But it has a 900w start up surge, that requires a good inverter mounted reasonably close to the batteries with proper gauge wire

No
You install the inverter close too the batteries
And run a new circuit for the 120v to the fridge

The existing 12v wiring is to small for the inverter

The 100+ running Watts , a small 1 amp at 120v is a small easy load of 10 amps 12v into the inverter
It's the 900 Watts compressor start up surge, that means you can't use the existing wiring

So would you install the inverter behind the fridge and use the 12v wire that already exists? And then I assume you would use the outside access panel to unplug the fridge from the "wall" and plug it into the inverter whenever necessary?

Most of us with residential fridge
Have an inverter big enough to run it
New RV's with residential fridge come with inverter and batteries
Most of us doing the change add those items
Yes, if you are not driving ten hours in 100F heat, you can get by with out it, for only a 2 - 4 hour drive
But most of us prefer to add enough to at least be able to keep the fridge cold when stopped over night in route, or for a weekend of dry camping
It's all about Your camping style

ScottG wrote:
I think it's worth it to look for an Energy Star rated fridge as well.
Since you will have to run it off the rigs battery's from time to time this will make sure it can run as long as possible on a charge.

Pardon my ignorance, but how would you run it off the battery if it's AC? I just assumed it would be off during travel between places with electricity.